Today, more than ever, people are drawn to the land and suburban life, urban overcrowding is bearing fruit, a person by nature wants peace of mind and unity with nature. You can reconnect with nature and relax outside the city at your summer cottage.

But what if you recently bought a bare and empty piece of land, the first thing you need to do is build a small house so that there is somewhere to change clothes, eat and lie down to rest after working in the garden.

And so let's look at one option presented by the author, how he built his country house.

materials
1. blocks 200x400x200
2.board 30mm
3. timber 40x40
4. insulation
5. lining
6. soft tiles
7. roofing material
8. insulation

Tools
1. hacksaw
2. hammer
3. jigsaw
4. screwdriver
5. shovel
6. ax
7. tape measure
8. gasoline generator (if there is no electricity)

The process of building a country house with your own hands.
A country house or change house serves the owners until they have built a large house for permanent residence, or when only temporary housing is required without permanent residence in order to store inventory, change clothes, take shelter from the weather that has taken you by surprise and spend the night on extreme case if the car breaks down and the buses no longer run.

The most popular today are easily erected frame-panel houses, finished with clapboard or board. With the right approach and planning, it is quite possible to build a very comfortable house, even for living. The sleeping place can be placed on top, thereby freeing up a lot of space that can be used for your purposes.

For the convenience of lifting up, a ladder should be provided.

So, having placed the sleeping bag on top, you can freely put a small kitchenette and, if desired, a shower.

And so, before starting construction, the author cleared the building site, as well as marked it out and proceeded to create the foundation, which he will make from blocks 200x400x200. First, a recess is dug and covered with sand, spilled with water, rammed, then blocks are laid out.

Bars are laid on the resulting foundation, a crate is made and sewn up with plywood. You should also lay a layer of waterproofing in the form of roofing material.

It is best to coat wood with impregnation, so it will last much longer.

After impregnation, the assembly of the frame begins.

The walls are covered with plywood sheets.

The roof is simple gable.

Sheets of plywood are also sewn on top of the crate, this is necessary in order to later lay a soft roof.

Then the windows are inserted.

And also the doors.

Insulating material is sewn onto the walls over the plywood.

The house is insulated with mineral wool inside.

Just another layer of insulation, and then get off with clapboard.

The main work has been completed, the house turned out to be good, but as you can see in the photo, the construction was delayed for a long time, for obvious reasons, there is no money, then there is sorely not enough time, I had to finish it already in the snow, so to keep warm the author installed a gas convector to heat the room.

This is what it looks like with the tank attached.

Having no financial opportunities to attract professional builders, you can, armed with special literature and patience, build a house on your own. In practice, this requires effort, but allows you to save up to half the cost of construction.

Many independent builders offer others to get acquainted with their projects and provide detailed reports, accompanying the process of building a house with detailed photographs.

Features of the layout of the house

By the efforts of two men was built cheap house for permanent residence with an attached garage. Initially, the garage was not provided for in the project and was added after the completion of the house.

In general, the project, as the discussion progressed, changed on the advice of other builders and the requests of the wife. Initially, the layout of the house included 6 rooms on two floors.

During construction, it was decided to equip two bathrooms, while on the ground floor the toilet and bath should be separate. The area of ​​the living room and the location of the stairs have also changed. Relative to the initial project, the living room was too narrow and elongated. The stairs were also planned to be uncomfortable and steep. After the changes, these shortcomings are eliminated.

The cost of building a house with your own hands

In May 2010, the father of a small family planned to cheaply build a house with his own hands in the amount of 300 thousand rubles. This amount included the cost not only for materials, but also for connecting gas and electricity. The following expenses were incurred according to the budget:

1. Concrete - 20 700.
2. Edged and unedged timber - 70,000.
3. Styrofoam - 31 200.
4. Plywood - 8023.
5. Metal profile - 16 200.
6. Siding - 22 052.
7. Used windows - 4000.
8. Nails, screws, etc. — 15,000.
9. Delivery of material and excavator services - 5200.
10. Septic tank - 10000.
11. Plumbing, radiators - 35 660.
12. GKL and finishing costs - 21280.
13. Design and installation of a gas pipeline, connection fee - 37,000.
14. Gas equipment (stove, boiler) - 29,000.
15. Electricity connection with materials - 3000.
16. Water connection - 2000.

According to the builder himself, a certain number of items on the little things are missing in the estimate. However, this also requires additional costs. It should also be noted that some of the windows were received from friends and did not require financial costs. In total, 327,315 rubles were spent on building a house without trifles. This amount does not include the attached garage. He was attached later on a separate estimate. In addition, the construction of the garage required an amount of about 34,000 rubles. Taking into account unspecified expenses, the house cost no more than 400 thousand rubles.

Installation of a shallow strip foundation

A pre-planned foundation is 35 cm wide and 25 cm above the ground and 20 cm below the ground. A cutting section of 2.5x100 mm was chosen as a reinforcing element. The reinforcement of the tape was planned in 2 layers, top and bottom, with three connected die-cut sheets in each.

On the advice of experienced builders, vertical elements were added, and the number of sheets to be connected was increased to 5 pieces. Additionally, the height of the foundation above the ground increased and amounted to 45 cm.

notch reinforcement - you can’t do that!

After pouring the foundation into concrete, 20 anchor bolts were installed for mounting the lower trim.

Construction of the first floor

Before the installation of the walls of the first floor, a platform was installed and insulated and pipes for sewerage were laid. The bottom of the platform is left open, the insulation is fixed due to the fixed trimmings of the boards. As a platform insulation, 3 layers of foam plastic, 15 cm thick, were used. The draft floor is made of a board 150x50 mm.

The walls were mounted in a horizontal position. Styrofoam was laid between the posts and protection with 8 mm plywood, windows were also installed. The windows in the project were used second-hand. The installation of the assembled wall in a vertical position was carried out by two men. In the construction of the walls, it was decided to abandon the installation of jibs. The builder assumed that the rigidity of the frame would be sufficient due to the plywood sheathing.

After assembling the walls of the first floor, the installation of internal partitions was carried out. Styrofoam was also used as a heater.

The principle of assembling the second floor

After the installation of the piping, a temporary floor was partially laid from unedged boards and the horizontal assembly of the walls and their vertical installation were carried out. Second floor windows were also used.

To increase sound insulation in the interfloor ceiling, non-woven cloth was laid on the floor logs under the boards. This allows you to partially dampen the vibration from steps.

Installation of rafters and roofs

At the end of the assembly of the walls of the attic floor, a truss system was installed. The overhangs of the rafters were not lengthened. An inch board was used as a crate. The roof was covered with a profiled sheet 4 m long.

Exterior finish of the building

Siding was used for the exterior of the building. It was mounted with a ventilation gap of 25 mm. Also at the stage of exterior decoration, an extension of the vestibule was completed. The foundation for the vestibule was not mounted, the structure was installed on pieces of concrete laid on the ground and sidewalk curbs.

Features of the stairs and its installation

The location of the stairs in the project caused a lot of controversy. Initially, its location suggested excessive emphasis on the attic ceiling. After changing the location and design of the stairs, it was made without a platform with a slight turn.

The staircase is made of boards 50x150 mm, the width of the step is 30 cm. Under the upper span, a place was left for equipping a toilet there. According to personal feelings, the staircase turned out to be comfortable and compact.

Interior decoration of the house

Before the start of finishing the premises, the insulation of the interfloor ceiling and the flooring of the second floor were completed. Felt is nailed between the joists and floor boards to increase the level of sound insulation. After that, a rough finish of the interior of both floors of a cheap house was completed.

The rough finish included three items:

1. Installation of fiberboard as a windscreen.
2. GVL installation.
3. Putty joints and chips GVL.

In the fine finish, staining with a water-based emulsion was mainly used. Living room, kitchen and bedrooms are painted in different colors. The floor in the rooms is covered with linoleum, the ceilings are finished with expanded polystyrene tiles.

Not everyone can afford a big house. The point is not at all financial opportunities. Sometimes you have to be content with little, based on the available territory. In addition, the rejection of excesses, the general desire for minimalism is a fashionable trend.

Creating an interesting and comfortable design for a small house is the main priorities of the owner. How to achieve this is described in our article.

Small private house: general characteristics of the object

The small size of a private house is most often found in garden associations. Small areas with a dense arrangement do not give room for action. Most owners of such country estates intend not only to relax on the lawn, but also to engage in gardening and horticulture. Given this, every piece of land is very valuable.

In this version, a small country house is what you need. A compact dwelling will allow you to hide from the rain, spend the night and even receive guests. Building such "mansions" is much easier and more economical. If you approach the arrangement of your home correctly, you will get a completely cozy and comfortable option.

For full functionality, in the case of a short stay on the site, 1 room is enough for the summer resident. At the same time, a pantry or a separate building is allocated for the household inventory.

In the case of a vacation in the country with a large family, it is advisable to provide for the allocation of a small kitchen. The only room is recommended to be divided into zones, if necessary.

If a long stay in the country is expected, then it is better to think over the interior of a small private house in more detail. It might be possible:

• make an addition;
• use the attic;
• more efficient use of height;
• use highly functional furniture.

All of the above requirements apply not only to residential buildings in a summer cottage, but also to small-sized mansions. In our country, these are quite common. Some are embarrassed by a small entrance hall in a private house, while others are more than enough 10 square meters to run a full-fledged economy.

Key Options for Efficient Use of Space

The most important rule for those who want to expand the space is not to store unnecessary things. This is especially true for country houses. Most of us are trying to transport all out-of-fashion, shabby, other objectionable things to country estates. You have to be able to part with rubbish or give it a second life in time.

Minimalism in a compact space is an ideal condition for visual expansion of the area. The fewer objects on the territory of a small house, the more pleasant the perception of reality. This applies not only to large-sized furniture, but also to all kinds of trinkets.

A two-story house is a good solution for a small plot of land. Everything that cannot be placed in width will turn out in height. It is advisable to initially carefully approach the marking of the territory.

However, in case of an unplanned occurrence of a situation, it is also possible to find a way out. For example, build on a building. If there is an unused attic, then repair, equip this area.

To improve the efficiency of the operation of the dwelling, it is required to be more attentive to the filling of the object. All furnishings must be thought out to the smallest detail. A good choice - transforming furniture:

• comfortable folding bed, pull-out sofa, bunk bed;
• table-book or folding model;
• extensive shelving system.

Even the furniture options themselves can be multifunctional (a loft-type bed or with storage boxes, stair-wardrobe steps, a bench with a double bottom). The main thing is that the useful space is used to the maximum. Numerous photos of a small private house clearly show how diverse the ideas for successfully loading space are.

Home territory: how to cope with the lack of space

As a rule, a small house is located in the same compact area. To get rid of this drawback, it is advisable to follow the same path as when organizing the space inside the house:

• give up unnecessary things;
• remember ergonomics;
• make the most of every centimeter of space.

If possible, a small courtyard of a private house is freed from additional buildings, large-scale plantings that create a dense shadow. An open space with lawn grass, garden paths, low-growing flower beds will please the eye, visually expand the area.

If it is impossible to clear the territory, they try to "open" the approaches to the house as much as possible. Outbuildings, greenhouses, tall plants, if possible, move away from the building. So, it will turn out to let light and air into the territory, visually “stretch” a compact area.

Interesting ideas for organizing a small space

In any house, the main part of the area is occupied by a sleeping place. For a small home, this is the most critical. It is desirable to place the bed in such a way that it takes up a minimum of space. A good idea would be to install the bed under the ceiling. This may be a specially designed structure on supports, imitating the second floor.

A decent option would be a loft bed with a sleeping place upstairs and a kitchenette downstairs. Human imagination is limitless. Based on this idea, there are various examples of entire complexes-rooms.

In addition to the bed, a table takes up a lot of space. To solve the problem of unloading space, it is desirable to abandon the usual version of this subject. Use different ideas with folding products. For example, a folding option screwed to the wall, a transforming table or a deliberately extended window sill.

In addition to unusual models, a non-standard arrangement is used. The table can be taken out into the corridor or even outside (if the house is summer). In this case, the construction of a veranda or a removable canopy will be a good solution.

Particular attention should be paid to seating areas. Sofa, bench or chairs should not be "empty". The use of built-in storage systems will help to improve the situation with unloading space. You can use a box as a chair. Lightweight, braided options are preferred.

A small house with a modest plot is a misfortune for many Russian summer residents. It is difficult, but possible, to rationally use the meager space to create conditions conducive to a comfortable stay or a fulfilling life.

Photo of small private houses

Since you are reading this article, a vacation outside the city on your site is attractive to you. A country house for this, of course, is necessary. It is highly desirable to build it simple, cheap and. For the sake of economy, not only Money and their labor, but also land area. In this publication you will find information on how to build a country house with your own hands, perhaps easier, faster, easier and cheaper. It is also desirable that the ergonomics of the house allows you to wait out a long bad weather in it without experiencing discomfort, and the design of the building makes it possible to use various design solutions for its external and internal design.

Where to start

The first question that needs to be solved when planning to build a country house is what to build it from? Where - it is already known, the site will not be moved anywhere. According to the material, soil at the construction site and weather conditions, the design of the house is selected, developed or selected for it. finished project, and then - estimates, purchases, and for business. We will start with the choice of material.

What to build from?

Since we are interested in options that are easy to implement, log houses are also excluded from consideration: it is very difficult to build them on your own. In addition, such houses are sensitive to seasonal ground movements and therefore require a foundation that is no less reliable than a full-depth tape foundation (from 0.6 m below the standard freezing depth of the NGP, counting along the bottom of the tape). The foundation of full penetration must stand to give its own shrinkage, at least from the end of summer until full spring warmth next year. The same endurance is required for insulated slab foundations, for example. swedish plate. There is, however, a type of foundation for wooden houses, which does not require a technological break (see below), but the timber or log structure itself must shrink for a year before it is ready for finishing. That's why a log or log house will be disproportionately expensive (from approx. 12,000 rubles / sq. m) and difficult to build on your own.

The same situation occurs with brick houses And . Ultimately, the construction of a small country house made of brick, foam block or timber turns out to be appropriate only in very small areas, when an extremely compact structure is required. In this case, the house is built 2-storey; brick and lumber technologies allow an unprepared, but attentive and accurate builder to build a house on 2 floors. Examples of the layout of compact 2-storey brick and timber houses are shown in Fig.:

Note: it is easier for a novice builder to build a foam block house than a brick, timber or log house. The construction of a country house from foam / gas blocks makes sense if the cottage is visited all year round - no additional insulation is needed and there will be less heating costs.

The simplest and quick ways the buildings small house- assembly from a ready-made panel house kit or structurally insulated panels (SIP). A 20x20-foot (6x6 m) prefabricated house is set up in a week by a pair of chimpanzees of average mental ability trained according to the instructions for the kit. No joke, there were such experiences. But, alas, the cost of construction. At current prices, somewhere from 18,000 rubles / sq. m. Without foundation.

A SIP house will cost less, approx. from 15,000 rubles/sq. m with a foundation on geoscrews (see below). However, SIP structures are held on locks between the panels. In order for a SIP house to be completely reliable, it must have a lot of internal partitions from the same SIP with locks. Since there are few or no partitions in a compact house, we also do not touch SIP as a material for it.

So we come to the conclusion: to build a country house, so that it is fast, simple and inexpensive, you need it from wood. With one small but very significant exception, see below.

Project

An inexpensive garden and / or compact country house is best built according to a standard project; see below for essential construction details. A ready-made free project of a country house is quite easy to find using any search engine. Or for a fee - detailed standard project garden house for 300 rubles find really on the relevant sites.

How to choose easier and cheaper

However, when sorting through projects, it is necessary to take into account some significant circumstances, namely, the cost, duration and complexity of the zero cycle, i.e. earthworks and foundation laying. It's the frosty heaving of the soil. With seasonal shifts, the ground under the house does not shake and does not roll over in waves. Summer cottages they are cut on various soils, but having one common property - sufficient self-connectivity, otherwise no one needs such a dacha. Therefore, within a certain space on the surface frost heaving soil is reduced mainly to the uplift / reverse subsidence of its surface with a slight roll.

On the other hand, a small country house has excessive rigidity and elasticity. Here the square-cube law, well known to technology (and stubbornly overlooked by amateurs), operates here. It is easy to test it by experience: glue cubes with sides of 2 and 10 cm from ordinary writing paper and try to crumple one and the other. The third factor is the intrinsic cohesion of the soil is inextricably linked with its mechanical properties.

Without going into further details, we will immediately report the conclusion: if a small wooden country house in terms of fit into a circle of a certain diameter, then on ordinary soils of garden plots it can be built on an unburied foundation, which is much faster, easier and cheaper. In what circle should the project of a wooden house fit in the plan, so that it can be built on an unburied foundation on soils up to and including medium-heavy ones, is shown in fig. It all depends, as we see, on the proportions of the structure: the more square the house, the better it plays out seasonal ground movements. Therefore, the houses are "trams" for narrow sections it is better, without looking closely, to build on the foundation of a normal deepening. But if the ratio of the “sticks” of a T-shaped house lies within 1

Note: the veranda/terrace is included in the projection of the house if it is rigidly connected with its design. Verandas that do not have a mechanical connection with the house or are hinged to it are excluded from the projection of the house in the plan.

Foundation

We will assume that we have decided on the foundation. We only recall that under a brick, timber or log house on all soils, except for non-rocky ones, it is necessary to lay a normally buried tape or TISE foundation. The slab foundation with insulation “settles down” on the ground for 2-3 years; this is enough for a timber or log house to begin to split. Under a house made of timber or foam blocks on slightly heaving soil, it is possible to lay a foundation on geo-screws (see below) with a steel grillage.

Unburied

An unburied foundation for a compact country house is the easiest and cheapest way to assemble a columnar foundation from ready-made concrete blocks 200x200x400. Blocks are laid out on a cement-sand mortar from M150, two in a row; top across the bottom. Thus, the column is obtained in terms of 400x400 mm.

Pit pits for posts are dug to a depth of 0.5 m; of which 15 + 15 cm falls on the anti-rock sand and gravel pillow. It makes no sense to deepen the columns of blocks by more than 20 cm: the dressing of the seams is weak, and the horizontal components of the frost heaving forces will tear the columns. The number of rows of blocks in the column is made more than 2, if the house needs to be raised above the ground by more than 20 cm. a week.

buried

The recessed foundation of a compact house is often, following the model of large buildings, piled on bored piles in soft roofing material formwork. If the house is on a slope, asbestos-cement pipes are taken to the pile shell, which makes it possible to compensate for the height difference along the slope of up to 1.7 m or more. With regard to fast small-sized construction, the disadvantage of these foundations is the same as that of the tape - it must stand and settle at least from autumn to spring.

Note: there is no point in laying the TISE foundation for a light compact house - the "caps" of the TISE piles normally work in the ground only under a sufficient weight load from the building. Of the small-sized houses, only a 2-story brick or concrete one is capable of creating one.

Geoscrews

The best option for a recessed foundation for a compact house is on geoscrews. Geo-screws are a type of shortened screw piles especially for light buildings. Unlike conventional ones, ground screws are not designed for swampy, loose and floating soils. A foundation with geoscrews for a large house will cost significantly more than a self-made tape foundation, because. ground screws are not cheap in themselves, but for a small house this is not so scary, since few screws are required.

A geo-screw for soils of low and medium density, according to the principle of keeping it in the ground, is somewhat similar to a furniture confirmatory screw and also looks like it, see Fig.:

The smooth head of geoscrews for dense soils is uniformly cylindrical. Those and other ground screws can be used on soils up to excessively heaving. On the heads of geoscrews, you can either lay the wooden lower trim of the structure, or mount a steel grillage. For information on how a wooden house is built on screw piles, see, for example. track. video:

Video: installation of a frame house

The advantages of ground screws for quick construction on a small site in cramped conditions are enormous:

• No preliminary geological surveys are required.
• Geo-screws can be wrapped in rather heavily clogged soil: a cobblestone or a piece of concrete with a child's head will push the screw to the side.
• Special equipment and access roads for it are not needed: 2 people with a crowbar or a home-made collar from a piece of pipe wrap up to 10 or more geo-screws per day.
• Preparatory earthworks are not required: the screw is simply placed with its end in the hole on the bayonet of the shovel and twisted. Align vertically when the pointed tip enters the ground by a third - half.
• Screwed geoscrews can be turned in/out to align the heads to the horizon.
• There is no need for a technical break for foundation settlement - construction can be continued as soon as the last screw is wrapped.
• An incorrectly wrapped screw can be unscrewed and wrapped again close to the old well.

Note: if you are building according to a ready-made project, which indicates the type and characteristics of the foundation, then you need to follow the recommendations of the designers, or consult with them about whether such and such a foundation is suitable on such and such soil.

What house to build?

We come to the very essence: what kind of simple country house will be built cheaper and most likely? In ascending order of cost, complexity and time of construction, as well as potentially aesthetic qualities (suitability for design and decoration), the options are next. way:

1. House from a military kung;
2. House-hut;
3. Bungalow house;
4. Frame house.

When not to excess

KUNG is an abbreviation for a Unified Body of Normal (Zero) Size. In the USSR, unified closed bodies for cars appeared after the Second World War and, thanks to their convenience, the name kung soon became a household name. A country house made of kung, most importantly, is very cheap: a decommissioned kung change house from ZIL-131 can be found for 30,000 rubles. And the construction comes down to bringing it and putting it on posts, concrete supports of grape trellises, etc., laid on a crushed stone pillow (so that weeds do not germinate and annoying living creatures do not start). The foundation for the kung is not needed on any ground in any climate - the kung is designed for off-road driving and overturning of the carrier vehicle.

The kung has only one drawback as a country house: a utilitarian appearance, which any designer's attempts only stick out. But there are a lot of advantages:

• Excellent insulation - a stove the size of a desktop computer system unit heats the kung from the most severe frost.
• The price is more than an order of magnitude less than that of a construction change house, a residential container or a section of a modular country house.
• High resistance to external influences - warehouses, change houses and utility rooms made of kung have been standing almost without maintenance for more than 50 years, and they are not visible to demolition.
• Fire safety is built in.
• Built-in electrical wiring or channels for it, electrical input board (VS) and terminals for grounding connection.
• Ample opportunities for redevelopment, interior equipment and decoration (see below).
• No legal clearance or installation permit is required. Bought - brought - delivered - live.

It is better to look for a kung for a country house from ZIL-131 or GAZ-66 cars (see fig.): they have a flat floor and it is easier to put them on posts due to small or no recesses for wheel niches. You need 6 columns (it can be brick folded dry): in the corners in the middle of the long sides. Among other things, kungs from ZIL-131 and GAZ-66 are cheaper and easier to convert into housing than Ural and KAMAZ ones.

Note: do not take non-standardized "booths" from the ancient ZiS's and GAZ-51-53, their frames are highly susceptible to corrosion and insulation is no good.

The width of the kung is standard according to the zero auto-dimension (2.4 m), and the length can be in the range of 3.5-8.5 m. laying a deep foundation.

For a country house, it is preferable to look for a two-slot kung (two-slot), on the left in fig. But any other empty one turns out to be surprisingly spacious, in the center. Kung change houses (top left and right in the figure) already provide normal habitability for 3-4 people, but it would be even better to look for a kung from old hardware communications. There are also sleeping places for a crew of 3-4 people, and after some application of your hands from such a kung, you get not a house, but a candy, at the bottom right in fig. It is better to remove the right (looking from the entrance inside) compartment for the autonomous power supply (BEA) gas unit: a mini-toilet with a shower is placed in its place. Removing half of the shelves above the left compartment of the BEA, we get a place for a gas stove for 1-2 burners and a small cutting table. The BEA compartment itself, as if on purpose, is intended for garden tools, planting material, etc., and with access also from the outside, through a wide hatch. In addition, there are side windows in the hardware communications kungs, which can not be said about all kungs - military cabins.

Chalet

Chalet means hut, and what changes the meaning of this word has undergone with the development of architecture is another matter. A country house-hut is durable almost the same as a kung, because. its load-bearing trusses are triangular. A small house-hut (approx. up to 4x6 m) can be placed on a non-buried foundation on any soil, except for excessively heaving. Materials for a hut house are required 1.5-2 times less than for a bungalow or frame house, and it is easier to build it without experience and with a minimum set of tools. The hut house has one more advantage inherited from the ancestors: it fits perfectly with almost any finish in any landscape, see fig.:

There are few drawbacks to the chalet. The house-hut retains all its advantages up to a size in terms of approx. 6x9 m, then it becomes more complex and material-intensive than traditional ones. Even in a small-sized hut, one of the sleeping places has to be equipped in the attic, where you have to climb a vertical ladder, that's all.

In America and Canada, single hut houses are quite widespread - shelters for hunters, fishermen, beekeepers, seasonal sharecroppers (this is the same as the Soviet hectare farmer, who remembers), on the left and in the center in the figure:

Arrangement of a single-seat house-hut - a shelter and a 3-seat country house

But a house-hut of only 3x3 m in plan can also be a country house for 2-3 people, on the right. In both cases, there are few heating costs, because. the relative area of ​​heat loss of a house-hut is smaller and it warms up faster due to more active air circulation. If your dacha is commercially inhabited from the first spring heat to the winter cold, then the hut house is optimal for you. After the kung, if you manage to buy it, who knows, they know the real price of the kung.

How to build a chalet

The construction of a hut house with dimensions in terms of up to 6x4 m is carried out step by step. way (this is the so-called airship technology developed by the Germans to build their zeppelins):

1. They lay a columnar or pile screw (on geoscrews) foundation;
2. The supporting A-frames of the frame are assembled from boards (130 ... 150) x40 lying on the plaza - any fairly solid flat surface;
3. The assembled frames are stacked in order to check for skewness and in size, this is extremely important for a hut house;
4. The verified frames are transferred one by one to the foundation and laid flat with the sole in place;
5. Each frame transferred to the foundation is lifted with a rope, set vertically and fixed with temporary jibs;
6. When all the frames are right, they fix the frame in the corners - at the bottom with cornice boards (see below), at the top with a ridge run, also from a pair of boards;
7. When building a house more than 3x4 m, the frame is reinforced with additional longitudinal screeds;
8. At the puff level (cross tie of the A-frame), the ceiling is assembled; without it, the house will not be strong;
9. The floor of the house is assembled according to the usual technology for wooden houses;
10. Sheathe the wings of the frame with 40 mm boards lengthwise, highly preferably tongue-and-groove;
11. Assemble the frames of window and door openings;
12. Sheathe facades;
13. Produce other required construction work.

The hut house will be strong enough and durable only if the work on its construction is carried out in the specified sequence. This is probably the reason why few build hut houses - it’s easier to work on the principle of “take more, throw more”.

Drawings of a house-hut 3x3 m for two or three are given in Fig.:

The inset at the top left shows the design of facade frames for a house up to 4x6 m. The material, as well as intermediate frames, is timber 150x75. Firstly, on the facade frames, 2 ties are added to the tightening (intermediate frames without them). Secondly, instead of a ridge run, a ridge beam of the same section is used. Thirdly, the frames, except at the corners, are fastened with middle and upper straps (longitudinal stiffeners) from the same beam. Longitudinal and transverse bonds are connected by a half-tree tie-in. Those. using the example of a 4x6 m house, it is already clear how the complexity of construction and the material consumption of a hut house grow with an increase in its size.

Note: on the lower screed, 2 more ends of the beam 100x75 are visible on the sides of the window. They are supported by internal partitions. The door frame on the other façade extends up to tightening and is made of timber 75x150; the lower screed of this facade is split. If this house is without a base, the window frame is similarly performed.

Bungalow and… bungalow

In the general concept of a bungalow, this is an unheated one-room country house with an extensive covered veranda, structurally integral to it. For a weekend summer cottage in fairly warm regions, a “generally accepted” bungalow house is optimal, because. it is spacious, well ventilated, does not overheat by the Sun, and in construction it is no more complicated than a frame house, but less material-intensive.

However, today little is known to professional builders outside the tropics that the bungalow is also a kind of building technology. Bungalow huts built on it (another name is hakale) can still be found in the wilds of Russia, the north of the USA and all of Canada. Some of them are over 200 years old, but most of them are still habitable. A house built using bungalow technology is easily recognizable by its 2-layer sheathing of vertical boards; the outer row is intermittent, see fig. on right.

Bungalow, as a technology of wooden construction, combines elements of half-timbered structures and frame with working sheathing. Compared to both, bungalow technology has a footprint. advantages:

• In wooded areas with developed logging, it is cheaper, despite the increased consumption of material for sheathing, because. unseasoned low-quality materials are suitable for it (sheathing), up to unedged boards and waste in the form of slabs.
• The bungalow house is very different and can be built on a non-buried foundation on soils up to and including strongly heaving.
• In damp places, houses built using bungalow technology are very durable due to the fact that the penetration of atmospheric moisture into the skin is minimized: the upper ends of the boards are covered with roof overhangs.

The disadvantages of building using bungalow technology are, firstly, the increased requirements for the experience and accuracy of the worker (see below). Secondly, there is some complexity in the design of openings: the outer skin boards need to be cut in place to fit the trim, otherwise pockets are formed - moisture traps.

Bungalow like bungalow

Bungalows as shelters are generally more popular than huts due to better habitability. In a bungalow, you do not have to climb up to sleep and stick out to eat.

The device of a bungalow-type shelter is shown in the figure:

Drawings of a mini bungalow house - shelters

The foundation, of course, is not necessarily a strip foundation (in this case, an unburied strip foundation, NZLF), but any one suitable for local conditions. If columnar or pile, then 12 supports are needed: 3 on the sides along the veranda and 4 (under each vertical rack) on the others. This house can be extended in length up to 3-3.5 m. Then, if you do not lengthen acc. veranda, you can fence off the toilet, and the attic in any case remains free for property and supplies.

The “real” bungalow for outdoor recreation with dimensions of 4x5.875 m is, of course, more complicated in plan (see the next figure), just like a frame house (see below). There is no attic (this is a characteristic feature of "real" recreational bungalows). The requirements for the foundation are the same, but already for soils up to and including medium heaving; prev. the option is excellent also on strongly heaving soils.

Bungalow as technology

The main features of the bungalow as a building technology are indicated above. In addition: the power frame is assembled from a bar from 150x150 without jibs. Yes Yes! The rigidity of the structure is given by the sheathing of vertical boards. Plywood and OSB are of little use, because under each joint of sheets, lining racks and valleys are needed.

Bungalow construction schemes are given in the figure:

The truss floor structures are not conventionally shown, they are ordinary. Please note, on the left in the figure: the triple corners of the frame are assembled in a half-tree and into a spike, and the spikes of the racks are on the inside of the corners. This is an indispensable condition for the strength of the structure: the elements of the load-bearing frame must cling to each other at the corners even without steel fasteners. Although it is necessary, see the scheme for reinforcing the corners in the center in fig. It is unacceptable to use steel corners, linings, etc. in this case! For the Old Testament "oakness" you have to pay with labor.

Sheathing boards need to be oriented with “humps” (bulges of annual layers) as shown on the right in the figure: inner inside, outer out. The outer boards should be slightly narrower than the inner ones, then in the process of warping the wood, the sheathing will compact and compress the frame. With any other arrangement of "humpbacks" it will split and the whole house will weaken.

All boards are attached to the frame along short (end) edges with three (not in pairs!) Nails or self-tapping screws. The edge boards are also fastened along the long edges to the corner posts with the same fasteners in a row or with a snake (zigzag) in increments of 100-120 mm. The outer boards are attached to the inner boards along short edges with pairs of fasteners; long - in a row with the same step.

The assembly of the power frame of the bungalow is a very important stage of work. And laborious, because you can’t hammer staples with a carpenter’s hammer, and you can’t tighten 12x300 self-tapping screws with a screwdriver. In old designs, instead of self-tapping screws, oak dowels were placed in wedging. The frame of the house using bungalow technology is assembled in the next. order:

1. Assemble the bottom frame on the foundation;
2. Racks are installed, aligned vertically and fixed with temporary braces;
3. Assemble the upper frame on racks;
4. Pioneer holes are drilled for the brackets (marking - by the brackets themselves at an angle of 45 degrees). The depth of the pioneer holes is 2/3 of the length of the mustache of the staple, the diameter is 3/4 of the diameter of the mustache;
5. The grooves are chosen under the shelves of brackets, because. staples must be recessed into the tree;
6. Staples are baited with a hammer;
7. Once again check the verticality of the racks and put the top steel fasteners;
8. Finish off the staples with a sledgehammer;
9. Produce wall cladding;
10. Temporary braces are removed and other work is done.

Skeletons

The frame mini-house does not have any features compared to the large residential one; the scheme of its device is given in Fig.:

The order of construction is described in detail and with illustrations in many sources. You can also watch a video about the construction of a "classic" frame house 6x4 m:

Video: country house 4 × 6 using frame technology

The complexity and cost of building a frame house is higher than all those described above. The attention, knowledge and accuracy required to build a hut house and a bungalow do not count: they do not require costs and do not take time. But the frame mini-house also has an undeniable advantage: a simple shape with vertical walls and smooth cladding make it suitable for a wide variety of design delights, see fig.

Also, the design of the frame house is very plastic. On the one hand, it forgives rather gross mistakes of novice builders. On the other hand, it gives creative lovers a certain scope for experimentation. See, for example, a video about the construction of a small frame house-shelter:

Video: do-it-yourself mini-frame house

It is only necessary to add to this plot that the comments of the audience about the insulation are fair. Since it is impossible to “drive out” the dew point once and for all outside, and there are no massive walls where it could “walk”, insulating materials in such structures must be used to prevent condensation in the insulation layer and further inside: EPPS or cellulose insulation (ecowool) .

In conclusion about the roof

The crossbar of the roof (all as it is, its supporting structure) of a small house also has a feature. It is determined by its small size, and, as a result, the excessive rigidity of the structure, as well as the absence in it (forgive the clericalism), put a load-bearing partition (internal main wall). To hold the latter, a fully connected foundation is needed; at least - tape normal depth.

Rafter structures (in this case, this is the same roof beam) are, as you know, hanging (pos. 1a in the figure) and layered (pos. 1b):

In the first, the rack of the truss truss rests on a transverse screed beam, and in a layered truss, on a load-bearing partition; split tie. It is technically possible to make a load-bearing partition in a small house, but it is not justified in any sense, including ergonomic - habitability. Therefore, the roof trusses of small houses are made only hanging. As for the methods of assembling the truss structure of a small house, they can be any of the well-known poses. 3 and 4. Choose whatever you like according to skill, availability of materials and desire. The minimum size of boards for a house up to 6x6 m is 40x130, ridge timber - 100x75 and Mauerlat - from 150x75. In a bungalow house and a frame Mauerlat, a beam of the upper trim can directly serve.

A suburban area is not only land with a garden and plantings. Many city dwellers come there for a good rest, so you need to have a house on the site. Not all summer residents have the opportunity to build a comfortable house on six acres. Many people get out of this situation by choosing the option of building an economy class house.

Inexperienced and novice summer residents are faced with the question of choosing cheap materials for construction. Below are examples of inexpensive and cozy country houses with visual photos.

Where to start building

Any construction begins with a plan on paper. The house outside the city is not intended for year-round use, but for the sake of comfort it requires familiarization with a typical project.

Among the projects of country houses in the lead with an attic or attic. This option allows you to abandon the construction on the site of the outbuildings. All inventory and working tools are stored in the attic. In addition to such a house, you can attach a veranda or terrace that acts as a dining room.

Strip foundation requires more time and cost. The positive side of it is that it allows you to use the room under the floor as a basement.

The next stage of preparation is the material of the "box" of the future building. There are several types of inexpensive and reliable building materials:

Frame-panel structures

The frame is mounted with a beam and sheathed with wooden boards of fiberboard or chipboard. Expanded polystyrene, glass wool or polystyrene are used as insulation. The result is a house with minimal costs, which can be operated all year round.

The house from a bar differs in the durability. Construction work will cost more. When using cheap timber, there is a chance of encountering the problem of shrinkage of the building. As a result, cracks and gaps appear. The log house will also have to be insulated.

A clay house is the cheapest and easiest construction option. Building materials are right under your feet. The construction technique is similar to clay modeling.

The downside is the building process that is too long in time. It will take several seasons to build a clay dwelling.

The trailer is common among newcomers to summer residents. The best option for living in the summer or during the construction of a comfortable home.

Construction of a frame structure

Frame construction belongs to the category of low-budget. It is not difficult to build a country house with your own hands without the help of specialists. If all the necessary materials are ready, the period of work will last several weeks.

To build a house you will need:

• bars for the frame;
• self-tapping screws and corners;
• wooden boards chipboard or fiberboard;
• insulation;
• piles for the foundation.

Stages of building a frame house

At the marked places, piles are driven in the corners. Mount concrete or brick supports under the joints of the walls. Then they cover them with waterproofing material and tie them with a channel.

A lattice of bars is laid around the entire perimeter. Wooden logs are placed on top of it at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other. All parts are fixed with corners and self-tapping screws.

Next, vertical racks are mounted, firmly resting on the bar grate. The finished frame is tied and attic logs are placed on top of it. Next comes the work on sheathing the frame with wooden slabs. At this stage, holes are left for windows and doors.

Now you need to decide on the choice of roof for a country house. Most summer residents choose gable and shed roofs. As an economy, the second option deserves more attention. When building a roof, do not forget about the vapor barrier. The roof will be inexpensive sheets of corrugated board or ondulin.

Facing the outside is done using siding. Before this, the outer walls are insulated with special materials. Instead of plastic windows, ordinary wooden ones without double-glazed windows are installed. This approach will significantly reduce the cost of construction.

With the help of simple and simple tips, a country house will be ready for use in less than a month. Those who do not have enough time for construction can contact a construction company, where they will offer to build a house for a turnkey summer house at an affordable price.

A few words about the interior

No matter how the house looks from the outside, inside the country house must meet all the requirements of our time. Gone are the days when a cottage in the country was used for cooking and lodging for the night.

Rest in the country - first of all, comfort and organization inside the house. There are many budget ways to satisfy the most desirable interior solutions.

Country - rustic style in the interior. Here you can not do without cabinets and shelves, curtained with curtains with embroidery. Crocheted napkins, tablecloths and rugs from old clothes will look good.