Even a lightweight prefabricated structure requires a foundation. The foundation protects the building from moisture coming from the soil and ensures the stability and reliability of the structure.

Garage - lightweight design, therefore the most common base option is a strip foundation. Depending on the design of the garage and the type of soil, the foundation strip can be made of the following materials:

• concrete mixture with reinforcement is the simplest and most affordable solution;
• cinder blocks - a reliable and durable base, quick and easy installation. Disadvantages - the large weight of the blocks and poor thermal insulation, insulation is required, and this is an extra cost;
• FBS blocks – can be installed on any type of soil. Such a tape will be durable and stable. The only negative is that you will need to use special equipment to lay the blocks.

Important. The time needed to construct a FBS foundation is minimal, which significantly reduces construction time. This justifies the cost of renting special equipment. After all, a concrete foundation must harden for at least 21 days.

• gas silicate blocks - attractive due to their low price and ease of installation, the material is frost-resistant. But gas silicate materials have many disadvantages, the main ones being low strength and high percent vapor permeability;
• foam blocks are an inexpensive material that can be used for lightweight prefabricated metal structures. It must be taken into account that the foam block shrinks greatly and often cannot withstand high loads. Not the best option for a foundation.

Formwork for strip foundations

Strip foundation can be shallow and recessed. This depends on the type of soil on the site, the depth of soil freezing and the material of the walls of the building.

On complex, problematic wet soils with high heaving, it is better to choose a more expensive but reliable type of foundation:

• pile foundation - these are racks made of screw or bored metal piles tied with a reinforcement frame and secured with a metal grillage. Installation time is minimal, high load-bearing capacity and relatively low cost;
• slab floating foundation is an expensive but quickly installed structure. Recommended for areas with high groundwater levels and wet, weak clay soils.

There is a misconception that it is easier to make an inexpensive columnar foundation made of brick for a garage. But such a foundation has a very low load-bearing capacity. The pillars must be buried at least a meter or more, depending on the freezing point of the soil.

If the soil is clayey, then additional insulation will be needed. As a result, the illusory savings in costs and work will cost a large investment of labor and money.

If you decide to build the foundation yourself, then the simplest option is a strip foundation. Next, we will consider the features of constructing this type of foundation for a garage.

Preliminary calculation of strip foundation

What parameters does the calculation of a garage foundation depend on:

• soil strength;
• what material the garage walls are made of - the load-bearing load on the foundation depends on this parameter;
• what is the depth of soil freezing;
• height of groundwater on the site;
• design and number of storeys of the garage.

Determining the type of soil on the site

The foundation must be on solid, stable soil; the depth to which we will lay the foundation strip depends on the type of soil. For stable coarse-grained, crushed stone or gravel soils and for sandy soil, you can safely choose a shallow foundation - up to 80 centimeters deep.

Clayey, peat soils and loam - why you need to increase the depth of the foundation to one and a half meters:

• even at slightly sub-zero temperatures, the moisture that is retained by the clay soil freezes and the soil swells, pushing out the rigid concrete base. When the soil thaws, the foundation strip lowers. As a result, the foundation is constantly subject to deformation and quickly collapses.

Important. The depth of the foundation on clay soils should be below the freezing point.

• clay is unstable and quickly erodes when groundwater levels are high. This also causes distortion and rapid destruction of the foundation.

On clay and peaty soils and sandy loams, it is advisable to install pile and slab types of foundations. If this is not possible, then the strip base should be buried below the freezing point of the soil by at least 20 centimeters.

On rocky and sandy soils, a shallowly buried foundation is sufficient - up to 80 centimeters deep.

Ground and seasonal waters

Calculation of the foundation for a garage must take into account not only the height of groundwater, which gradually erodes the foundation, causing deformation and cracks, but also seasonal natural precipitation.

If the site is located in a lowland, then melt and rainwater can seriously affect the foundation. Therefore, it is necessary to carefully inspect the area and determine the passage of melt and rainwater flows. If necessary, install a drainage system that will turn water around the foundation.

The location of the ground water layer can only be checked by drilling holes.

Important. A mandatory rule is that the depth of the foundation for the garage must be at least fifty centimeters above the groundwater layer.

Garage wall material

Calculation of the foundation for a garage must take into account the material of the walls of the building. The width of the foundation strip and its depth depend on this:

• walls made of brick and concrete carry a high load on the foundation, so the width of the tape should be 10 - 12 centimeters greater than the width of the brick or block, taking into account the width of the formwork;
• lightweight metal prefabricated structures can be installed on a regular shallow foundation.

When carrying out work, it is imperative to provide for the presence of a base when installing the formwork, which must be at least 20 centimeters above the soil level. This condition is especially important for walls made of brick and wood. The plinth protects the walls of the building from the destructive effects of water from the soil.

Shallow or recessed foundation

It is difficult to build an expensive buried foundation for a garage with your own hands, and such construction is not always profitable or necessary. If you are planning a serious capital construction with a basement, then it is worth spending money on installing a buried foundation.

For a simple garage box with a small inspection hole, an ordinary shallow foundation is sufficient.

Construction of a conventional shallow foundation for a garage

If you plan to equip a small inspection hole in the garage with your own hands, then the depth of the foundation strip should be at least one meter. This will ensure high load-bearing capacity of the base and prevent deformation of the base during excavation work.

Let's dwell on important points construction work that will prevent negative action heaving soil and moisture on the foundation tape and walls of the building:

• It is necessary to insulate the foundation on the formwork from the outside with sheets of extruded foam or polystyrene foam along the entire height of the tape, including the base. We choose the thickness of the penoplex based on the climate of the region;
• a blind area (50 cm wide) with foam insulation will prevent freezing of the soil and deformation of the brick and concrete walls of the garage;
• storm drainage will ensure water drainage from the foundation;
• additional drainage at the base level is necessary if the groundwater level is high on the site;
• It is necessary to install high-quality waterproofing of the concrete strip using penoplex or ordinary sheets of roofing material. You can also use bitumen waterproofing.

If you do not skimp on waterproofing and drainage work, then the stability, strength and durability of the foundation is guaranteed.

How much does it cost to install a simple strip foundation?

How much will it cost to install a conventional strip foundation if earthen and concrete works do it yourself? average price, which takes into account waterproofing and insulation - up to five thousand rubles.

Useful Video from detailed description happening:

What you shouldn't save on:

• purchase ready-made poured concrete with additives. The overpayment is small, but the strength and reliability of the mixture is guaranteed;
• do not skimp on waterproofing and insulation; extruded penoplex is an inexpensive material.

When choosing the type of foundation, calculate all costs. In some cases, a simple concrete strip with insulation and waterproofing will cost more than the quick installation of reliable screw piles.

Foundation- the basis of the entire garage. Exist different types grounds. One of the most common is strip foundation. This option received its name for its resemblance to a ribbon stretched along the perimeter of the entire building. Option best suited for massive garages, for example, made of concrete or brick.

The building can even be two or three stories high. Main advantage strip base– guarantee of uniform distribution of the mass of the building. The method is also applicable for garages made of lightweight materials (for example, metal sheets). In this case, the design of the base is simplified, since it is not necessary to withstand a lot of weight.

Strip foundation There are two types of garages:

• made;
• aspic.

A prefabricated base is assembled from individual structural elements - concrete blocks. Structural elements are divided into two types - FL And FBS.

Elements with FL marking will be the foundation cushion, and FBS will be concrete blocks, the basis of the structure.

The method saves time and reduces labor costs. For creating poured strip foundation They use concrete mortar, wooden panels for formwork, and reinforcement.

You will also need auxiliary materials - timber, tow, slats, fastenings for formwork. Rubble and rubble concrete are also used. Rubble stone provides protection from moisture/water and corrosion.

Besides, strip foundation It is customary to divide by the “degree” of capital:

• not buried;
• shallow;
• recessed

The most labor-intensive is recessed strip base. Creating the formwork will be a complex technical task and requires experience and skill. The second type is widely used - shallow strip foundation for garage. It does not require a lot of money and is two to three times cheaper than the buried version.

The relative simplicity of the design and the moderate amount of work allow it to be completed independently, without the involvement of hired specialists. A big advantage is the ability to equip a basement or inspection hole. This cannot be done in a non-recessed strip base. Therefore, for a garage the optimal solution would be shallow base.

Before you start construction DIY strip foundation for a garage, you will need to create a construction plan, make calculations and do soil studies. Research will show the soil type and groundwater level. The data directly affects the depth and dimensions of the base.

P=DxPG, Where

P– base area;

D– building pressure (on the foundation);

PG— soil density.

The foundation area is obtained by multiplying the building pressure and soil density. The pressure of a building is calculated based on its mass and the density of building materials. The value of soil density is taken from the tables and correlated with the data obtained about a specific area.

What does it look like strip foundation for garage- photo below:

Excavation

First step - excavation. For the foundation, you should dig a trench around the perimeter of the garage. The depth of the trench depends on the level of soil freezing and the type of soil. Add 10-20 centimeters to the freezing level. The work can be done manually or using construction equipment.

The base of the trench is necessary clear away debris, then compact. After cleaning, a layer of sand 10-15 centimeters thick is poured. In warm, southern regions, the depth of the trench will be 70-80 centimeters. In the middle zone, the trench should be deeper - at least 110-120 centimeters.

The width of the trench is affected soil type. If the soil is dense and homogeneous, then the width will be equal to the thickness of the walls. Heterogeneous soil will require some design complications - 10-15 centimeters are added to the width of the walls.

REFERENCE. For example, if the thickness brick wall garage is 25 centimeters (one brick), you will need a trench 35-40 centimeters wide.

Formwork You will also need additional space. To erect the formwork, the trench must be expanded by an additional 30-40 centimeters. In some cases (with very stable soil) formwork is not necessary. Formwork is also not needed for prefabricated strip base. The elements of the prefabricated foundation are fastened together with reinforcement.

Fill

Let's consider pouring method. Before pouring concrete into the trench, fill it airbag. The pillow consists of a layer of crushed stone and sand. The materials will support the concrete from below, preventing it from sagging or leaking. In addition, sand performs drainage function.

It allows excess water to pass through itself, preventing water from accumulating under the garage and damaging the foundation. The materials for the pillow are mixed in equal proportions. An excess of sand will impair the strength of the mixture. Excess crushed stone will also spoil the quality of the pillow.

After this you can start working on concrete. To calculate the volume use the formula:

O = PxD, Where

ABOUT– volume of concrete;

P– cross-sectional area of ​​the garage foundation;

D– total length of the base.

The formula is used for a rectangular base.

Concrete is poured step by step. First, you need to partially fill the trench (no more than 15 centimeters) with a layer of concrete mortar. The first layer will create a base against getting wet. Reinforcing mesh is laid on it. The laying principle is simple - one reinforcement structure on top of another. Then the elements fasten together.

The next step will be creation of formwork. Formwork- a structure intended for pouring concrete. Liquid concrete is poured into a mold (formwork), it hardens in it, and the result is ready foundation . The most common is the stationary option.

The basis of stationary formwork– wooden boards different sizes lying on the beam. The beam serves as a rigidity rib in the structure. Wooden panels are fastened with ties or wire.

For a rectangular strip base, boards 5-7 centimeters thick are used. Wooden shields strengthened from the inside with spacers, since when pouring concrete will burst the formwork and deform it. It is necessary to install pegs on the outside, dig them into the ground, and strengthen the rigidity of the formwork.

Pay attention to the solidity of the structure - for the absence of cracks And gaps. Most of the concrete solution can simply escape through them, as a result, the base will lose its characteristics. The permissible gap between the shields is considered to be 4 millimeters. Large cracks should be covered with tow or nailed down with slats.

After creating the airbag, laying the initial layer and installing the formwork, you can begin to laying the base layer of concrete. The process is quite labor-intensive and requires a lot of time. Do not allow concrete to overflow over the edges of the formwork; do not rush. In winter, concrete will need warm And heating, otherwise it will not be able to harden properly.

To do this, heat sources are installed along the formwork to maintain the required temperature. In summer, concrete mortar needs protection from the sun's rays And overheating. If the construction site is not protected, the concrete will spoil. To protect from the sun, it is suitable to install canopies that create shadow over the formwork. In addition, the concrete solution should be protected from precipitation - cover it with film.

Conclusion

The first stage in building a strip foundation for a garage with your own hands is calculations And soil research. They allow you to determine the dimensions of the future foundation. The key parameter is soil freezing level. In the southern regions it is a little more than half a meter, therefore, the depth of the trench will be 65-70 centimeters. In the middle zone - 110-120 centimeters minimum.

After the calculations they begin for excavation work. They dig a trench around the perimeter of the building, creating a safety cushion. Then the initial layer of concrete is poured - about 15 centimeters. After this, the reinforcing mesh is laid and the main layer of concrete mortar is poured. Please note that concrete must be protected from precipitation, sunlight and low temperatures.

Watch the video about strip foundation:

Almost all novice builders are puzzled by the question of what exactly should be the depth of the foundation for a garage? What load should the foundation withstand if the garage has one or two floors.

In addition, there are many nuances that you need to know when building it yourself, for example, so that there is no dampness and moisture in the garage, so that the car does not become damp over time. It takes a lot of effort to correctly calculate the width and depth of the foundation.

The soil

Of course, it’s good if you have the opportunity to choose a construction site, but often, there is already a place and it is necessary to build a building.

The most important characteristic of the soil that can influence the construction is the depth of its freezing. If the temperature difference is too great, the building may settle or crack, or the openings may become skewed.

But it is worth considering that for different soils, the depth of soil freezing will be completely different. For example, water passes through sand or sandy soil very quickly, and therefore the freezing depth will be significantly lower than that of substrates.

In order not to worry about the strength and reliability of your building in the future, it is worth making a base at the foundation when building a garage, which will be located below the soil freezing level.

So. if the soil freezes, for example, by 0.8 meters, then you need to lay the foundation at 1 -1.2 meters. You can make a base of sand and crushed stone by pouring these components into the resulting pit, thus removing water. It is also necessary to calculate the bearing capacity of the soil.

The best option is rocky terrain, but there is practically no good site for construction there. SNiP regulates that black soil with a fertile layer and peat is absolutely not suitable for building a garage. That is why the top layer of soil in mandatory must be removed, reaching approximately the load-bearing layers that will withstand the load and weight of the garage. In most cases, it is about 0.5 meters.

When erecting a structure, it is necessary to clarify with utmost precision all issues related to groundwater. Groundwater has a great influence on the bearing capacity of the soil and the freezing depth. Groundwater drainage can be provided, and a clay castle can be used for protection. It is strictly forbidden to build inspection pits or basements in such soils.

Construction material

Today there are a large number of building materials from which you can build a garage. But the most optimal has always been and remains a brick, which can withstand loads for many years and not wear out.

Foundations come in different types:

Solid

This is a solid mass of slabs underneath the entire building and is the strongest type.

Welded

It looks like tightly driven piles into the soil. This type of foundation is suitable for any soil and is therefore a universal type.

Tape

Strip foundation for garage” width=”300″ height=”225″ />

How to calculate?

The garage is a fairly important building and therefore worth Special attention give . The garage must protect the car from the adverse effects of climatic conditions.

The strip type foundation is performed at a depth of up to 1.7 m; there is simply no need to go deeper.

On this moment The best option for the middle zone would be a combination of the foundation.

1. Excavation work: 24m3×700 rub. = 16,800 rub.
2. Sand cushion 10m3×500 rub. = 5,000 rub.
3. Concrete on tape 4m3×5,000 rub. = 20,000 rub.
4. Backfilling with sand 10m3×500 rub. = 5,000 rub.
5. Concrete for slab 5m3×5000 rub. = 25,000 rub.
6. Reinforcement A-III 12 mm 1200mx26 rub. = 31,200 rub.

The total amount of materials is 103,000 rubles. If you pay for the work, you need to add another 80%.

Construction stages

1. Initially, think over and calculate what pit is needed, it would be most optimal to dig it at a depth of 50 cm. Next, the foundation is covered with sand with pouring and tamping to a depth of 20 cm.
2. A 30x40 cm tape is made around the perimeter. Horizontal reinforcement: 3 reinforcement rods A-III in 2 rows, vertical reinforcement – ​​outlets every 40 cm with a height of 300 mm above the foundation (for a tie). It is necessary to calculate the materials for formwork and reinforcement.
3. Next, sand is poured inside under a tamper and poured with water., cover the sand with a plastic film (so that the cement laitance does not go into the sand and the concrete does not lose its strength). The frame is knitted in 2 layers from A-III reinforcement with a cell of 200×200 mm. The thickness of the slab can be made 10 cm.

Depth

The depth of the foundation for the garage will directly depend on the height of soil freezing and the flow of groundwater. If the freezing depth is not great, but the groundwater is low, then the foundation can be laid with a depth of 0.4 meters and add to this figure the amount for a sand cushion and a layer of gravel.

This kind of foundation will be an ideal choice for construction on sandy soil, which is almost impossible to freeze.

It is best to deepen the foundation on clay and marshy soils by 1.5 meters. Thus, erosion and compression of the soil will not occur, which will prevent the destruction of the foundation.

The depth of the foundation should always be greater than the freezing value of the soil, at least by 0.2 -0.3 m.

Width

The thickness of the garage walls will directly affect the width of the garage foundation being built, which needs to be completed, is approximately 30% more.

This applies to any type of foundation, and even to the slabs connecting the foundation piles.

For a strip foundation under which formwork is supposed to be erected, the width should also be increased by the thickness of the walls of the formwork itself.

So, for example, the width of the walls will be 12 cm, this is the size of a standard brick (if the masonry is made of one brick), then the thickness of the walls of the wooden formwork will be 2.5 cm. And in this case, the width of the foundation being built will be 20.6 cm.

Nuances of bookmarks

If you do not plan to park more than two cars in the garage, you should not build a large garage, and therefore you will not need a powerful, strong foundation. In the case of one manna, you can get by with a light, modest foundation.

Adviсe:

1. Before starting construction, it is recommended to decide which communications pass through the selected construction site, so as not to touch them in the process. Thus, there will be no problems with neighbors and utilities.
2. Next, it’s worth at least sketching out a sketch of what will subsequently be built, a small sketch of the area along which you will need to navigate during the construction process.
3. It is quite important to timely insulate the side external walls of the foundations with foam plastic, which protects the ground from thawing and thereby prevents frost heaving of the soil.
4. A massive foundation is necessary if the garage will be built from strong bricks, 1.5 masonry or foam blocks. But there is one prerequisite for all types of construction - the foundation must be 20-30 cm higher from the ground, this will prevent the appearance of moisture and dampness in the garage.

To build a garage, blocks made of slag or foam concrete are most often used: lightweight, durable, retain heat, but require a stable base. A reliable foundation is required even when assembling walls from metal or frame panels: it allows you to change the material at any time and protects the interior space and the car from moisture. In private construction, they usually opt for a shallow slab or reinforced concrete strip. Small sizes and the simplicity of the technology make it possible to pour the foundation for the garage on your own, the savings in this case are over 30%. The design combines two contradictory requirements: an elevation of 20 cm above the ground and convenient entry; the organization of a slope is inevitable. All other nuances are indicated in this step-by-step guide.

Choosing the type of base for a garage made of blocks

The main criteria are: soil type, height of floods in spring, number of storeys, need for underground space. For a garage, strip, slab, pile-grillage types are equally suitable, only the depth of the foundation changes. Preference is given to the first two options: reinforced tape or slab. In order to eliminate errors when choosing the height of the structure, it is necessary to do a soil analysis, which consists of taking samples from wells and determining the level of groundwater rise and freezing depth.

The assessment results are used taking into account the instructions given in the table:

If the soil analysis is ignored, the strip foundation under the garage is laid to a depth of at least 1 m with a monolith width of 40 cm. In other cases, the parameters are determined by calculation: the total weight loads are divided by the bearing capacity of the soil. The resulting value is the minimum acceptable; usually the width of the walls of the garage base is slightly larger than the size of the blocks. The standard trench depth for the foundation is 20% more. Ideally, an escalator is used for excavation work (the walls are smoother, the earth crumbles less, the process goes quickly), but most owners, in order to save money, do it themselves.

What needs to be done to create an underground space?

The organization of an inspection pit in the future garage is allowed if the groundwater level is not higher than 2.5 m, otherwise it is possible only with the installation of a drainage system. But the latter will be meaningless with constant flooding (it will not protect parts from fumes and corrosion), as a result, in such areas they refuse to lay underground space. For obvious reasons, an inspection hole is not possible when constructing a slab base.

There is a size limitation: it is laid in garages with an area exceeding the dimensions vehicle at least twice as much, it is not recommended to constantly keep the car over the hole even if it is reliably waterproofed. The cellar is dug at the stage of basic earthworks, the standard depth is 2 m. After which this area is fenced off separately, protection from moisture and finishing begin after concreting the garage foundation is completed. Minimum waterproofing of an inspection pit includes backfilling a sand and gravel base, filling it with bitumen, or, alternatively, spreading roofing material.

Step-by-step instructions: how to build a strip foundation

1. Assessing the condition of the soil, choosing the type of foundation.

2. Preparation of a simple drawing, calculation and purchase of building materials taking into account the length, width and depth of the tape, clearing the site.

3. Marking of the building: with mandatory check angles and diagonal deviations (no more than 20-30 mm). To limit the external and internal perimeters of the future garage made of foam blocks, ropes and stakes are used.

4. Digging a trench and inspection hole. To prevent the earth from shedding during the concreting process, a margin is provided (10 cm on the sides).

6. Installation of formwork - wooden panels or permanent (expanded polystyrene, PPSB, wood concrete), the advantages of the latter include the additional function of insulation.

7. Knitting reinforcement cage with a mandatory distance of 5 cm from the edges and a step of 10-20 cm. To ensure that the foundation for the garage lasts a long time, metal rods with a cross-section of at least 10-12 mm are used; it is not recommended to ignore this stage or replace steel with plastic.

8. Mixing or pouring ready-mixed concrete. The optimal proportions when using Portland cement M400 are 1: 3: 4 (cement, sand, crushed stone, respectively); to reduce the proportion of water per 1 m 3 of solution, it is recommended to add 75 g of plasticizer. The concrete is distributed in layers and compacted every 20 cm. It is difficult to correctly fill the foundation yourself (with a solid monolith in one day, without drying out the intermediate layers); at this stage, the strength of at least 2 people is needed.

9. Hardening of concrete in the formwork (minimum 1 week) and another 3 after removal. Waterproofing the foundation with coating and rolled building materials.

10. Arrangement of an inspection hole (if available).

This instruction is suitable for building a foundation for a garage with your own hands from rubble stone or ready-made factory blocks; the advantages of the latter option include good quality concrete. The products are laid in a checkerboard pattern with mandatory reinforcement of the rows and displacement of the seams; only fresh cement of the highest grade is used to prepare the masonry mortar. But it should be taken into account that the installation of heavy foundation blocks involves the use of lifting equipment and increases the budget; it is easier to make a foundation from rubble stone.

To enhance protection from moisture and heat loss, external decorative finishing of the protruding part of the foundation is carried out with tiles or plaster. The technology eliminates the interruption of the tape or grillage, which implies the construction of a garage with a slight slope (about 15-25°). The recommended width of the ramp is 30 cm larger than the gate, length is 5 m. Either concrete with additional reinforcement is used if the layer thickness exceeds 50 mm, or asphalt. When choosing a solution, it is recommended to fill the ramp in one step; after hardening, the irregularities are removed with a grinding machine; to prevent the tires from slipping, the surface is covered with bitumen compounds or metal strips are laid on top.

Tips, nuances of technology

There are ways to compact the soil and enhance the protection of the base of a cinder block garage from frost heaving, in particular, preventing the formation of ice freezing around the strip monolith. These include:

• Styling drainage pipes along the perimeter of the foundation: at a distance of about 50 cm from the walls and ground level, wrapped in geotextile, with a mandatory slight slope.
• The use of insulating permanent formwork (a method recommended primarily for attached garages or those designed for permanent residence inside).
• Increasing the base support area. In this case, it is necessary to make a wider and deeper trench and fill its bottom with thin concrete. The resulting screed will reduce the load.
• Strengthening a strip monolith with pile supports when building a garage on a slope or uneven areas.
• Insulation of vertical walls of the structure with polystyrene foam.
• Arrangement of the blind area, backfilling the resulting foundation not with previously selected soil, but with a mixture of sand and crushed stone.

The above methods are not included in the standard scheme of actions when constructing a garage foundation from foam blocks with your own hands and to one degree or another increase costs, but they help reduce loads and extend the life of the structure. As a last resort counts complete replacement soil under the foundation, it is used in construction on peat bogs. Laying of wall blocks begins no earlier than in a month; it is important to calculate the timing correctly.

D For many car enthusiasts, the garage is a second home. In most cases, private ones have no more than one floor, that is, the loads from its structures are relatively small. Sometimes the car room is generally assembled in the form of a sheet steel module, colloquially referred to as a “shell”. But regardless of the design, during the construction or installation of a seemingly simple building, building codes and regulations, construction technology, in particular when building a foundation for a garage with your own hands. Which, of course, is very bad. After all, not only the durability of the building itself, but also the reliable storage of the car, and most importantly the safe stay of people in this garage depends on the quality of work.

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The basis of any structure is a reliable, durable structure that transfers the load from walls, columns, beams and other structures to the ground base. In this regard, it is customary to make the base of the foundation wider than the foundation itself. This allows you to distribute the load over the largest possible area.

Types of foundations for garages

Depending on the type of garage, there are several main types of foundations:

2 . It is advisable to make the depth of the foundation base below the soil freezing level, and if the soils at the construction site are heaving and saturated with water, then it is necessary.

3 . When building small garages, there is no need to call surveyors. For fairly accurate results, you can use the principle of the Egyptian triangle. This rule states that a triangle with an aspect ratio of 3:4:5 is right-angled. The construction of a rectangular foundation in a similar way can be clearly seen in the figure.

4 . It is prohibited to install foundations with a vertical deviation of more than 5 mm per meter of height, but not more than 1 cm for the entire height of the structure.

2 . Excavation. For separately standing foundations, there is no point in developing a pit or trench. It is enough to remove the soil under each foundation separately, which will significantly save time and money.

3 . Before concreting, it is necessary to install a cushion under the foundation made of crushed stone of a fraction of 15-20 mm, 100 mm thick, compacted by compaction.

2 . Development of soil in trenches. The trench is arranged with slopes to avoid soil collapse. With a margin of at least 50 cm in width on each side, or at least on the outside, for formwork and subsequent waterproofing.

3 . The soil base must be compacted by compacting crushed stone into it.

4 . Often, the base of the foundation is a flat grid. The vertical part (foundation body) is reinforced with a spatial frame. Reinforcement can be omitted in dry, strong soils.

5 . If the garage has underground communications, it is necessary to provide openings for their entry in advance. To do this, when, in places where communications pass, pieces of plastic pipes are laid. You can also use PET bottles of suitable size filled with water or sand.

6 . Just like in option with, a blind area is built around the perimeter of the garage.

In addition to monolithic, both tape and columnar foundations can be prefabricated, from foundation blocks, or made of rubble stone masonry. The disadvantages of a prefabricated structure are the need for a truck crane when using large blocks. As for foundations made of rubble stone and small blocks, their disadvantage is their rather high labor intensity.

Do-it-yourself monolithic foundation slab for a garage

Compared to the types of foundations described above, a monolithic slab is the most expensive when calculated per cubic meter of concrete. This is due to the need to reinforce it with a spatial frame. On the other hand, the presence of a slab can successfully replace the installation of a floor in a garage.

As you can see, there is no particular difficulty here. When constructing frames, there is no need for electric welding work; all frames are knitted knitting wire. Embedded parts, if necessary, can be ordered at the nearest construction site or workshop where there is welding equipment (however, now this is not a problem). Armed general concepts, set out here, it will be easier for you to control the production of work in the case of attracting third-party workers or, armed with knowledge, to carry out the work yourself. Easy construction and a solid foundation!