Many summer residents have a question: how to make Summer shower with your own hands and use it all season from May to October? The simplest shower is a simple structure made of boards with a water tank installed at the top.

But this option for taking water procedures is ideal only in hot summers. As soon as the temperature drops, swimming immediately begins to resemble hardening, which is not comfortable for everyone.

Building a full-fledged summer shower in the country with your own hands is not so difficult. First you need to decide on the size of the future building and choose a place on the site for the foundation for the shower.

When choosing a place for a shower in your dacha, you need to consider several points. In particular, the ability to supply clean water and drain dirty water. In order not to pull the pipe or hose far, it is more convenient to place the shower next to the well. In this case, the waste water must be discharged to a septic tank or to a drain. Otherwise, the flowing water, seeping into the ground, will inevitably end up in the aquifer that feeds the well. If it is assumed that the water will be heated only from the sun, the place for the summer shower should be on the sunny side, protected from the wind. In this case, it is not advisable to place the shower near the boundaries of the site.

Shower size chart.

Before starting construction, you need to decide on the size of the summer shower and make a design for the future construction. Good water pressure will be ensured if the container is raised to a height of 2.5 m. The person washing should be able to freely raise his arms up or bend down without bumping into the walls. Therefore, the interior space of the cabin must have dimensions of at least 100×100 cm. In addition to the shower compartment, it is necessary to provide a dressing room with a width of at least 60 cm. If we add up these two values, it turns out that the summer shower should have dimensions of 160×100 cm. However, a design of 160×140 cm will be more convenient. By adding the wall thickness to these parameters, you can get the final dimensions of 200×150 cm. In addition, this is an excellent waste-free option for using boards of standard sizes.

Necessary tools for building the foundation of a summer shower:

• shovel;
• concrete mixer or container for mixing the solution;
• level;
• cord or rope;
• hacksaw;
• Bulgarian;
• drill;
• Master OK.

Basic building materials:

• timber 100×100 mm;
• cement or concrete mortar;
• sand;
• crushed stone;
• metal poles or pipes;
• boards for formwork;
• fastener

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DIY pile foundation

Construction of a pile foundation.

The height of a summer shower can be from 2.5 to 3 m. Considering that a heavy tank of water is installed at the top, the structure must be quite stable. To do this, it is advisable to make a pile or columnar foundation. It will reliably hold a heavy tank of water under wind and other loads. You can make a pile foundation yourself.

Having decided on the size of the shower, they make markings for the foundation, that is, they draw a rectangle measuring 170×110 cm or 190×140 cm on the ground. Metal pillars or pipes (metal or asbestos-cement) with a length of 1500-2000 mm can be used as construction material. Pipe diameter 90-100 mm. At the corners of the shower, 4 holes with a depth of 1 m to 1.5 m are drilled into the ground, into which pipes or pillars are inserted so that they rise above ground level to a height of approximately 20-30 cm. The pillars are cemented or concreted in the ground. In the upper part of the column, it is necessary to concrete the stud - the lower shower trim will be attached to it using a nut and washer.

For the installation of the upper and lower trim, hewn timber with a cross-section of 100×100 mm is used. The length of the beam is equal to the length of the wall of the summer shower. The timber, in which a hole for the stud is pre-drilled, is laid on the foundation pillars, the connection is secured with a nut and washer and tightened using a spanner. The beams are connected to each other in a simple lock and additionally fastened with self-tapping screws. The entire beam lies on the posts, the connection is firmly tightened with a pin and nut - the bottom one is obtained.

Then the frame posts are attached and the top trim is secured. The verticality of the racks is checked using a building level. It is advisable to further strengthen the racks with braces. After the foundation and frame are ready, they begin to install the floor, roof and walls of the summer shower. Wood is susceptible to rotting, so it is advisable to treat all wooden parts of the structure with special compounds. This DIY design is quite durable and can withstand a water tank with a volume of about 200 liters installed on the roof.

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DIY columnar foundation

Diagram of a columnar foundation.

First, a place for the foundation is marked. Under the columnar foundation you need to dig 6 holes 40-50 cm deep and 20x20 cm in size. For each hole you will need wooden formwork measuring 20x20x20 cm (height-width-depth), which must be leveled horizontally with a building level. To make the foundation even stronger, insert 3 bars of reinforcement into each hole, then tie them with wire. In order to prevent contact of concrete with the ground, a rolled piece of roofing material must be placed at the bottom of all holes. Afterwards, the recesses are filled with cement mortar. To save cement, you can add fine crushed stone and sand to the solution in the following proportions: cement 1 part; sand 3 parts; crushed stone 5 parts. The solution is leveled over the formwork. A metal pin with a diameter of 10 mm is stuck into the center of the post. Part of the pin (8 cm) should remain outside, and part (12 cm) should be recessed into the solution.

After the foundation gains strength, the formwork can be removed. You should start from the bottom of the foundation. Beams 100×100 mm are cut along the length of the sides of the building and connected to each other in half a tree. This means that 50 mm of thickness needs to be sawn off on each side of the beam, so that when the beams are connected to each other, it will again be 100 mm.

Holes for the studs are drilled in the timber, then the timber is laid on the posts, the stud-washer-nut connections are tightened with a spanner. The wood must be treated with a protective compound (used machine oil can be used). That's all - the columnar foundation for a country shower is made with your own hands and is ready for use.

There is no arguing about the need to build a toilet on a summer cottage. Installing a summer shower in the country is also an equally important and necessary part of comfort. But structures built separately take up a lot of space, and if the dacha plot is small, then they try to build them small sizes. This option is inconvenient and uncomfortable. To solve this problem, you can build a toilet and shower combined in one building with your own hands.

The main feature of the design of a toilet with a shower is a single building and a common dividing wall. Each room is equipped with a separate door.

The design of the toilet, separated from the shower room, is equipped with a container for storing and supplying water. Plastic tubes supplying water are connected to this tank. In the shower room, the tube is connected to a watering can. The water supply is adjusted using a tap. It enters the toilet room through tubes that are connected to the washbasin and toilet cistern. In the latter case, it is supplied when the appropriate plumbing is installed.

Such a structure saves the territory of the dacha

The cesspool should be located from a well or water well, no closer than 15 m. The most acceptable distance is 25 m. This is necessary to avoid the possibility of foreign impurities getting into the water used.

When choosing a location for the construction of this structure, you need to take into account the possibility of access for sewage trucks to pump out sewage. If the septic tank is deep and wide, it will take longer to fill. You must not forget to equip it with a hatch to drain the contents.

If the pit is located closer than 15 m from a well or water supply station, its walls and bottom must be carefully sealed.

Advantages and disadvantages over separate structures

The following criteria should be considered for the benefits:

1. It is more expedient to design the construction of a toilet and a summer shower in one building. Every meter of land on a summer cottage is fertile soil on which you can grow vegetables, plant a tree or plant a flower bed. The construction of individual structures will take up much more space than a single frame.
2. When constructing individual structures, a larger amount of material is needed, since each of them requires an individual foundation, roof and the construction of additional walls (in the combined version, only a partition wall is needed). This will also affect financial costs.
3. The construction of a combined toilet and shower will reduce construction time, since in this case work is being done for both structures at the same time.
4. If you build everything separately, then both structures need to be equipped with their own drainage pit. In addition, the walls of each of them must be reinforced with bricks, roofing felt, slate or concrete, which will additionally entail waste of money.

The disadvantages include the following:

1. Unpleasant odor from the cesspool, the risk of contamination of soil and groundwater with sewage, as well as the high cost of pumping out its contents.
2. If you don’t connect a pump to the summer shower tank, then to take a swim you will have to carry water in buckets and pour it with your hands into a container on the roof.
3. In the absence of sunlight, the water will not heat up well in all seasons. And to keep it warm on hot days, it needs to be prepared in advance.

Preparing a project for a shower room combined with a bathroom

The design of a combined toilet and shower should, above all, be functional and comfortable. It can be designed in any shape, size and color. A house measuring 2750x200x2520 mm will be comfortable to use. In such rooms it is convenient to install rectangular benches and shelves. It is not difficult to build a frame of this shape. The diagram and drawing below show the optimal parameters for the construction of this structure.

Optimal parameters presented

Here is a separate toilet and shower in one building. The structure is located on a columnar foundation. Its dimensions allow it to be conveniently used for its intended purpose. The shower and toilet rooms have dimensions sufficient to accommodate additional furniture and plumbing. You can place a washbasin and shelves in the toilet, and benches and a bathing cabin in the shower room. With a width of 130 cm and a length of 200 cm, each room will not be cramped. The height of 2.5 m makes it possible for even a very tall person to use this building.

The length and width of the structure are selected individually

If the door opens as shown in the drawing, then it is better to place the washbasin on the right side. In this case, the sink will not interfere with entering and leaving the toilet room. The bench in the shower room can be installed in the same way.

Selection of materials

Various materials are used to build a toilet with a shower. In our case, it will be a frame structure on a columnar foundation with a gable roof. A frame building does not require a deep foundation, since it is relatively light in weight. Thanks to the pillars, the structure will rise above the ground. This will protect the lower frame of the structure from dampness and fungus. Water will not linger under the base. A gable roof will allow you to equip a cold attic for household needs. Water drains from such a roof faster than from a pitched roof.

When purchasing beams and boards, you need to take into account their humidity, the degree of which should not exceed 22%. To determine this, use a needle moisture meter.

To build a country toilet with a shower, you need to prepare the following materials:

• For the lower and upper trim: four beams 2750 mm long and the same number 2000 mm long, all with a cross-section of 100x100 mm;
• For vertical supports, beams with a cross section of 50x100 mm are needed, in the amount of 24 pieces, each of which is 200 cm long;
• Wooden edged boards with a section of 10x100 mm, for sheathing;
• Beams with a cross section of 50x100 mm, length 200 cm, 12 pcs. – for the roof frame;
• For flooring (in the toilet), boards with a cross-section of 40x150 mm are required in an amount of (minimum) 20 pieces. OSB sheets are used as the finished floor;
• If the floors in the shower room are tiled, then the amount required is 2 m²;
• Plastic pipes and sewer drain;
• Concrete mixture (M-200) in the amount of one and a half cubic meters;
• Plywood sheets for making formwork;
• Sand and gravel;
• Metal tiles.

All wooden elements must be free from knots, cracks, mold and insect damage.

• Sheets of multilayer plywood, chipboard, fiberboard or OSB boards are used as a rough ceiling.
• To make it easier to fasten the beams, metal corners and plates are used.

Required Tools

When building a country toilet with a shower, you will need the following tools:

1. Bayonet and shovel shovels;
2. Jigsaw or hacksaw;
3. Concrete mixer;
4. Electric welding machine;
5. Large container with water;
6. Buckets or wheelbarrow for carrying concrete mixture, gravel and sand;
7. Pliers and wire cutters.
8. Screwdriver or Phillips screwdriver.
9. Axe.
10. Hammer.
11. Building level.
12. Square.
13. Yardstick.
14. Cord.
15. Self-tapping screws and nails.
16. Plane.
17. Pencil.

Step-by-step instructions for DIY construction

When all the necessary materials have been purchased and the tools are prepared for work, you can begin building a country toilet with a shower:

1. First you need to choose the right place for this structure. The site should not be in a lowland or hole.
2. A columnar foundation will be used for this construction. To install it, you need to make markings on the ground using a tape measure and a cord.
3. After this, you need to dig a pit for the cesspool. Its depth should be from 1.5 to 2 or more meters. The width and length of the pit may vary. Typically these values ​​are 100x150 cm.
   
   

   The cesspool can be either round or square.

4. Once the hole is dug, it needs to be strengthened. To do this, we line the walls of the pit with bricks. We use cement mortar as an adhesive.
5. When the walls are ready, fill the bottom of the pit with a mixture of sand and gravel, and then concrete it. The result is a concrete container that does not allow contents to pass through its walls.
   

   Brickwork will prevent soil and groundwater contamination

6. Next, you need to install a columnar foundation. To do this, we dig holes 80 cm deep and 20 cm in diameter.
7. Their bottom should first be covered with a 10-centimeter layer of sand, which must be compacted.
8. Pour a 10 cm thick layer of gravel on top of the sand, which must also be thoroughly compressed.
   

   Proper foundation construction will create a rigid foundation for the structure

9. After this, from plywood sheets or boards, you need to make formwork for the pillars, which should rise 30 cm above the ground.
10. Insert 3 to 5 reinforcement rods into the middle of the hole to strengthen the concrete. Connect the elements of the metal frame using wire.
11. Mix the concrete and pour it into the formwork. In case of construction work in hot weather, formwork with uncured concrete must be covered with something. If this is not done, the concrete may crack.
12. Leave the future foundation for a couple of days to harden.
13. After the specified time has passed, remove the formwork.

    The formwork gave the pillar a square shape, and the metal reinforcement gave it strength.

14. Next, you need to install a drain pipe under the shower. Place the drain in designated place, and bring the other end of the pipe out.

    Thanks to the removal of wastewater, moisture will not accumulate under the shower

15. For the bottom trim, use beams with a section of 100x100 mm. Connect wooden elements using the half-wood method. Lay two layers of roofing material between the wood and the concrete pillar. Connect the frame with a concrete base to metal studs and nuts.
16. Use a metal channel as a frame above the cesspool.
17. Now you can proceed to the construction of frame walls. To do this, you need to install beams with a cross section of 50x100 mm in the corners. Check their vertical position using a building level. Use metal corners and plates as connections, vertical supports and bottom trim.

    The ends of the beams are connected using the half-tree method

18. In the frame, install two pillars with a height of 1960 mm in place of the doors. Make the distance between them 770 mm.
19. After all the vertical supports are installed, it is necessary to make the top trim from beams with a section of 100x100 mm. Secure it to metal plates and corners using self-tapping screws.

    Wooden jibs will temporarily strengthen the structure

20. On the top trim, in the middle, install three vertical posts, on top of which fasten the ridge board.

    The height of the racks will determine the angle of the roof

21. From boards with a section of 10x40 mm, make rafters for a gable roof with a pitch of 65 cm. The length of the rafter legs should be 20 cm longer than the edges of the walls of the structure. Secure all elements with self-tapping screws.
22. Then make a sheathing from the edged board in increments of 20 to 30 cm. Connect it to each other on the ridge element. The length of the boards should be selected so that they protrude by 20 cm.

    The protruding parts of the sheathing will serve as a canopy for the construction

23. Nail wind boards. Cover the roof with sheets of metal tiles, which are secured to the sheathing with self-tapping screws. A vapor barrier layer is not provided for this structure, since it will not be heated.
24. Now move on to installing the floor in the toilet. Cut beams to the required length from 40 mm thick boards, which are secured to the bottom trim with self-tapping screws. The length of the floor from the entrance to the pedestal with a seat is 100 cm.
25. Cut 5 beams 40 cm long, and use metal corners and screws to screw them to the floorboard. Parallel to them, also install 5 vertical beams on the channel, connecting them with the same boards. Attach the same beams to the side supports (of the future toilet room) and the rear ones. The result should be a frame that looks like a large step. This structure made of wooden beams is intended for a pedestal.

    This structure is reinforced with metal corners, which make it stronger.

26. Sheathe it with a board 20 mm thick. Then you need to insulate the walls of the toilet and shower. To do this, cover the inside of the structure frame with boards 20 mm thick. Then tightly insert 10 mm thick foam boards between each vertical support. Fill the gaps between them with polyurethane foam. It is also necessary to insulate the ceiling.

    Polystyrene foam will reliably protect walls from cold and heat.

27. Then you need to cover the outer walls and the inside of the ceiling with boards 20 mm thick.
28. Now you can start building the shower. To ensure that water does not go into the ground under the building, you need to make a drainage system. To do this, dig a small ditch into which to lay a regular sewer pipe with a diameter of 10 cm. One end of this pipe should lead to a right-angle outlet for connection to the sewer drain.
29. Cover it with polyethylene and attach it to the pipe.
30. In the shower room, cover the floors with a layer of crushed stone. This is necessary in order to waste less concrete. The crushed stone must be placed so that its level around the drain is less than around the perimeter.
31. Pour concrete on top and level it. As a result, the surface along the entire perimeter will have a uniform descent to the water drainage point. This base must be free of pits and protrusions so that it flows freely.

    Slope of the floor towards the drain

32. Wait until the concrete base hardens, then cover it with a layer of bitumen-rubber mastic. Before use, it must be heated to a liquid mass. Then, using a brush, apply to a dry and dust-free concrete floor. In the same way, it is necessary to process the lower frame of the structure.
33. Once the mastic has hardened and cooled, you can move on to installing the wood floor in the shower. To do this, it is necessary to cut boards 40 mm thick into fragments 137 cm long.
34. Place the indicated boards on the frame and fasten with self-tapping screws. In order for water to drain through the floor, it is necessary to leave a distance of 15 to 20 mm between the wood.

    The gaps between the boards promote better water drainage

35. Cover the inner surface of the shower room with 20 mm thick boards. Treat everything with a moisture-proofing compound. Cover the entire shower with yacht varnish in two layers. After the first time, let it dry and only then proceed with the second application. Cover all the external walls of the building with the same boards.
36. Use a sander to sand down the wood surfaces of the shower and toilet.
37. Then you need to protect the foundation from water flows. To do this, it is necessary to install a drainage system. Attach drainage channels to the edges of the rafters, to which drain pipes are installed on each side.

    Thanks to pipes and gutters, water will not accumulate near the walls of the structure

38. Now you need to pay attention to the ventilation in the toilet and its pit. To do this, you need to make a hole with a diameter of 10 cm in the lid of the cesspool into which to insert a plastic pipe. Its height should be 70–100 cm higher than the ridge part of the roof.
39. For ventilation in the toilet room, it is necessary to drill a hole in its wall with a diameter of 10 cm. Insert a plastic pipe into it and bring it out parallel to the previous one. Attach umbrellas on top of each pipe to prevent precipitation.

    Installing a ventilation system will create conditions for the release of methane

40. To use the country shower and toilet in the dark, electricity must be installed. To do this, drill a hole in the partition between the toilet and shower, insert the wires into it and connect them to the junction box. Attach the lamp to the ceiling and screw on the closed lampshade. Place the switch on the wall. Do this in both rooms.

    Wiring connections must be carefully insulated from moisture.

41. Now you need to install the doors. They must be treated with the same compounds and varnish as the shower room.

Installation and nuances of use in the country

When the structure of the country toilet and shower is erected, you can proceed to the direct installation of a water barrel and connecting a tube with a shower head to it. It is also necessary to install a seat in the toilet.

A flat roof is most suitable for installing a water barrel. Since in our case it is gable, it is necessary to build a stand for this container. It must be made from metal pipes, a channel or a corner, using electric welding. In our case, we used a metal corner with sides of 50 mm and a thickness of 3 mm. To strengthen the structure, it is necessary to weld reinforcements perpendicularly, every 100 cm. The total length of the frame is 4 m. The result should be a solid stand in the form of a tripod. Then, near the shower wall, drill three holes 1 m deep. Lower the tripod into them and fill them with concrete.

In order to save material, a frame was made of three metal corners

A plastic container 20 cm high, 100 cm long and wide was used as a water barrel. Due to its small height, the water in such a container heats up quite quickly from the sun's rays. It is necessary to make a wooden frame under it. In our case, it is made of beams with a cross section of 50x50 cm, 100 cm each. Their ends should be connected using the half-tree method and secured with self-tapping screws.

The shape of this tank holds a lot of water, which quickly heats up in the sun

The wooden frame must be attached to the stand with self-tapping screws.

Now you can move on to installing the shower pipes. For this, it is better to use plastic ones with a diameter of 25 mm. Carefully drill a similar hole in the barrel, into which, using lock nuts and rubber seals, install the fitting. Connect a pipe to it, in which, after 50–60 cm, connect a ball valve. It is necessary to shut off the water in the event of any repair or construction work. Then drill a hole in the ceiling and insert a pipe into it. Using tees and fittings, place it in the shower. Install a watering can with a tap in the pipe under the ceiling.

Now you need to install the toilet seat. To make a straight hole, you need to place a bucket in the middle of the pedestal and trace it with a pencil. Using a jigsaw, cut a hole in the marked area.

The bucket will hide the edges of the hole

Insert a bucket into it and secure it with self-tapping screws. If you use the toilet in winter, you must purchase a foam seat. It will be warm in any weather, which is important for health.

The appearance of the finished building will fit well into the territory of the summer cottage

Video: stages of construction of a country toilet with a shower under one roof

With little effort, you will build the necessary and convenient building with your own hands. Rest and living at the dacha will become much more comfortable. To take a swim after gardening on a hot day, you don’t need to heat water or waste electricity. Thanks to various external finishing materials, a toilet and shower combined in one building will not disturb the architectural ensemble of country buildings.

Every summer resident dreams of having on his personal plot a durable, comfortable toilet that will last him for many years. Sometimes summer residents set up a building hastily, simply placing the cabin on pipes or concrete blocks. Over time, such a fragile structure begins to tilt. The durability of the bathroom directly depends on how solid the foundation for the toilet is built.

Allowable zones on the site for placing a bathroom

Before you start building the foundation, think about the location where the toilet house will be located. To do this, you need to take a drawing of the site and carefully examine all existing structures and outline the location of the well. After this, think through all possible areas for placing the structure.
There are certain rules that must be strictly followed:

• The toilet must be at least 25 m away from the water source - a natural reservoir, a well. Otherwise, fecal fluids will seep into the groundwater.
• It is recommended not to build a house near the border with a neighboring plot - it should not be less than 1 m away from it.
• Please note: if you place the building in the center of the site, the foul air will reach the windows of the house.
• There should be 8-12 m to buildings on a summer cottage - a bathhouse or shower, a cellar, a residential building, about 4 m from buildings for breeding animals and to trees.
• Since in most cases cesspools are cleaned out by vacuum cleaners, it is necessary to consider the possibility of vehicle access to the toilet facility.
• Try to place the house in a shaded place, since such a building does not need to overheat in the sun.
• The location of the toilet also depends on the soil of the site. You should not build on floating soil. In the case of clay soil, do not forget: the clay will prevent absorption, and you will need to dig a large hole.

As you can see, there are many conditions for the correct placement of a bathroom. You may not be able to comply with everything. Of all the criteria, the most important is the first. In addition, please note: if the depth groundwater does not exceed 2.5 m, building a toilet with a cesspool is prohibited by sanitary standards. Think about the appropriate type of structure, as well as the type of foundation for it.

Types of foundations for building a country toilet

Typically, the foundation for a toilet is built either over a cesspool or over a container in which waste is collected. Depending on this principle, there are several types of foundations:

1. Columnar.
2. Columnar-ribbon.
3. Tape.
4. Cast.
5. Basement.
6. Pile.

The first three support structures are suitable for self-production. The rest are done using machines and mechanisms.
All you have to do is choose what kind of foundation for the country toilet you will build, select materials and tools for construction.

Before describing the features of constructing foundations for a toilet in a country house, let us dwell on the construction of a cesspool.

Construction of a cesspool

Cesspools are divided into filtering ones, the bottom of which allows liquid waste to be absorbed into the ground, and non-filtering ones. The bottom of non-filtering pits is concreted. To construct a pit where fecal waste will flow, you must perform the following steps:

1. You need to dig a pit 2-4 m deep. It should have a slope towards the back wall of the future toilet.
2. We compact the bottom, cover it with a layer of clay up to 20 cm and concrete it.
3. For the filter option, the bottom does not need to be concreted, just add a 15 cm layer of sand and a thin layer of pebbles or coarse crushed stone.
4. You can place a plastic or metal container by cutting off the top. For a filter structure, both the bottom and the top of the container should be cut off.
5. The walls of the pit can be made of brick.
6. A rather labor-intensive method of equipping a pit using concrete rings. It will be necessary to use mechanisms for lifting and lowering heavy products.
7. Finally, let's install the ventilation pipe behind the back wall of the toilet.

Proper execution of the cesspool will make it easier for you to build a foundation for a toilet in the country with your own hands.

The classic version of the strip construction of the base of a sanitary house

The strip foundation is one of the easiest to manufacture and the most reliable. It can be manufactured in 2 versions - non-recessed and recessed. Let us first consider the procedure for constructing a classic recessed foundation, which is used for brick booths.

1. We mark out a diagram of the future foundation. Insert corner pegs.
2. We dig a pit (1.7x1.7x1.5 m) of a rectangular shape.
3. We will waterproof the bottom by placing geotextiles.
4. Place a 10-20 cm layer of sand on the bottom. Compact the layer.
5. Before pouring the foundation for the toilet, we install permanent wooden formwork.
6. Fill the bottom with concrete mortar with the addition of liquid glass, in a layer of 15 cm. The concrete screed should stand for 1-2 days until it hardens completely.
7. In the gaps not filled with concrete, we place coarse crushed stone.
8. We lay ready-made concrete blocks around the perimeter of the screed. Once the masonry reaches the top of the trench, pour concrete on top of the blocks.
9. We fill the gaps between the edge of the trench and the fill with wet clay.

It is possible not to fill the bottom of the hole under the country toilet with concrete mortar. Just make a 10 cm layer of sand, followed by a 15 cm layer of crushed stone or pebbles.

Construction of a shallow strip foundation step by step

Non-buried strip foundation used for lighter booths made of wood or metal. The work is performed in the following order:

1. We mark the structure using twine and pegs.
2. We dig a pit, level the bottom and tamp it down. Height 10 cm, width 25 cm, depth 40 cm. There must be a distance of at least 30 cm from the cesspool to the strip formwork.
3. We cover the bottom with a layer of clay (20 cm), then a layer of sand (about 6 cm), and a 15 cm layer of gravel or crushed stone.
4. We produce formwork that will be installed around the perimeter of the pit with a width of 20-30 cm.
5. When installing the formwork, check that all lines comply with the drawing. Use a plumb line and a building level.
6. Consider the placement of metal pins that will connect the base to the frame of the toilet.

In terms of its qualities - strength and durability - a strip foundation is superior to a columnar foundation.

Making a non-buried columnar foundation

The toilet is a small building. Often it is enough to simply place columns under the foundation (from 4 in the corners to 8 or more). You can buy reinforced concrete pillars ready-made or make them yourself by pouring a concrete mixture onto, for example, formwork such as an asbestos-cement pipe. Before pouring, we pre-treat the outside with bitumen mastic. Such a foundation for a toilet in the country is recommended if you decide to install a chemical or dry toilet outside. They do not need a deep cesspool, and a lightweight foundation should be installed.
Then we move on to laying out the foundation according to plan:

1. We carry out the marking according to our drawing.
2. To install the pillars, we dig holes to the freezing depth (about 1 m).
3. We install ready-made blocks or formwork into the pit for their manufacture.
4. If pipes will serve as supports, fill them with concrete mixture layer by layer and install wooden supports in the pipe.
5. If you take a two-meter pipe, it will become the basis of the entire frame of the toilet.
6. We first put roofing felt at the bottom of the hole for waterproofing, then a layer of sand (10-15 cm). Let's compact the bottom well.
7. Then pour a 10-15 cm layer of gravel and compact it as well.
8. We secure the position of the blocks with spacers.
9. In the case of working with ready-made blocks, the space around them is filled with crushed stone, gravel, stones and a concrete screed is also poured around them. It should be poured in layers, constantly monitoring the correct alignment of the pillars.
10. In the case of installing formwork under pillars, first the formwork under the supports is poured layer by layer, then the foundation is poured in the same way as with ready-made pillars.
11. Make sure that the finished blocks do not move during pouring.
12. Most often, the base of a wooden outdoor toilet cabin is secured using special pins installed in the foundation, which has not yet cooled down.
13. After this, roofing felt is laid on the foundation for waterproofing, then the base of a wooden frame made of timber with a cross-section of 1.5x1.5 cm is put on. The base is first treated with antiseptic impregnations, and holes for studs are made in it in advance.

It should be added that an option for self-made support pillars are sheets of roofing felt (3-4), tightly rolled into rolls and firmly grasped with steel wire. Or wooden poles. When making a columnar foundation for a toilet with your own hands, you must first make the foundation, and then the cesspool.

Features of building a foundation for backlash closets

For toilets of the backlash-closet type, which is located in a residential building, the foundation is somewhat different. This is a bathroom with a cesspool. It is located outside the room, and the toilet is inside.

1. To make the foundation, we dig a pit - it is much larger in size than its classic counterpart (3x1.5x2.5 m, length, width, depth, respectively).
2. At the bottom of the pit we form a cushion consisting of a 15 cm layer of sand and a 10 cm layer of crushed stone.
3. After this, you need to lay several layers of roofing felt for waterproofing and pour a concrete screed.
4. We install strip formwork 20-30 cm wide after the concrete has hardened, and secure it stationary with spacers. The height of the formwork is 100 cm below the upper boundary of the pit.
5. We lay the reinforcement inside the formwork and fill it with concrete mortar with the addition of gravel or crushed stone. Pour layer by layer. You don’t need to add gravel to the last layer; it is made more liquid.
6. After the concrete has hardened, remove the formwork.
7. Gaps between the walls of the pit and concrete pouring fill with wet clay after the screed has dried.
8. On top of the frozen strip foundation, it is necessary to re-install the formwork for a monolithic floor, in which there will be 2 holes for hatches - for the hood and for the exit pipe). We fill the formwork with concrete.
9. When the ceiling has dried, we form a concrete ring (or brickwork) over the inspection hole. It should protrude 15-20 cm above the ground and be covered with a hatch.
10. After this, brick walls are laid on top of the ceiling under the beams of the foundation grillage.

Despite the complexity of this foundation, it can also be made at the dacha with your own hands.
As for the option of a columnar-strip foundation, it is performed according to the same rules as the previous ones.

Making a foundation from tires

The most economical and fastest way to install a foundation is to build it from tires. This interesting and unusual option was patented by M.S. Semykin, who used this method in the construction of baths.
Tire buildings are quite durable because they are made of rubber, a material that is resistant to external influences. They are stable and easily tolerate soil movement during the spring-winter season.
To make the foundation, we place rubber tires in the corners of the future toilet (or on 2 parallel sides) and fill it with sand, gravel, and stone. Then the base of the cabin frame is mounted on top.
In conclusion, we advise you to check the compliance of your work with the markup more often.

At the dacha you need a toilet and a shower, because only thanks to these facilities you can spend time in your own area with relative comfort. Do you agree? And they should be built before gardening begins.

If there are no centralized water supply and sewerage systems (and this is usually the case), you need to think through the design of a country toilet with a shower and a separate cesspool. The best option is combined buildings with a partition under one roof. We will tell you what a joint toilet and shower project should be and what it will take to implement it.

The article outlines useful recommendations from experienced specialists on how to correctly draw up a project and build a joint building with your own hands. The material is accompanied by thematic videos that will help you implement the drafted project in practice, as well as enrich it with new ideas.

Features of the combined design

The combined shower and toilet are one building under a common roof. The rooms are separated only by a wall, and the entrance to each of them is separate. A tank is placed on top of the shower. It is installed on the roof and water is supplied through pipes, a tap and a watering can are mounted.

If the toilet has a washbasin, then water should come from a common tank. In the same way, water is supplied to the toilet if they decide to install a standard flush toilet. However, such plumbing fixtures are rarely installed at the dacha; much more often they make do with a standard “hole in the floor” with a cesspool.

Before building a structure with a cesspool, you should make sure that it will not poison the lives of your neighbors. Otherwise, conflicts, litigation, and fines from the State Supervision and Technical Supervision services cannot be ruled out.

If a cesspool is used to accumulate wastewater from the toilet and shower, it should be located at least 20-25 m from the source of drinking water. In areas where it is not possible to comply with the standards, it is necessary to carefully concrete the bottom of the pit. This is to avoid accidental contamination of drinking water with fecal bacteria.

A toilet with a shower is built at a distance of 10 m from residential buildings (both your own and neighbors). Violation of sanitary standards in this case threatens to flood foundations and basements if the pit is overfilled during spring floods and/or depressurizes. The distance to the fence should be at least 1-3 m.

When planning the location of a toilet with a cesspool, you should take into account the distances not only to buildings, but also to communications:

• to asbestos-cement pipes - 5 m or more;
• up to cast iron pipes with a diameter of less than 20 cm - 1.5 m;
• to cast iron pipes over 20 cm - 3 m;
• to gas - 5 m or more.

It happens that the area is too small or its location does not allow it to withstand even minimum distances between objects, recommended by SNiP. In this case, it is worth consulting with the BTI to see how this issue can be resolved.

When developing a project for a country toilet with a shower, you should consider its location. We offer one of the possible options for site planning

Building a toilet and shower under one roof has several significant advantages:

• Compactness. A dacha is a place not only for relaxation, but also for growing vegetables, fruits, and berries. Every square meter should be used to its maximum potential. The construction of a combined structure solves the problem of lack of space.
• Saving building materials. Any construction involves expenses, and the lower they are, the better. The foundation is especially expensive. If it is one for two rooms, this is already a reduction in costs. If you add savings on roofing materials and load-bearing walls, the benefits are obvious.
• Save time. Building two structures takes much longer than building one. You get two vital structures in almost the same time as one, because... the most energy-intensive work (digging pits, pouring foundations) is done for both structures at once.
• One drain hole. Arranging a drainage pit requires effort, time and money. If there is only one, this is a significant saving. An additional plus is that there are fewer unpleasant odors in the area, because There is also only one “fragrant” zone.

There is one serious drawback, but a big one: when bathing in the shower, the smell from the toilet may bother you, but this is a solvable problem. If the ventilation pipe is placed higher than the roof of the building, unpleasant odors can be avoided altogether. Below is a video that details the design of odorless toilet ventilation.

Toilet and shower with cesspool require periodic maintenance. You will have to negotiate with sewage disposal services and position the building so that there is enough length of the hose to pump out sewage, and arrange access roads for the car

Before building a summer shower, you should carefully consider how water will be drawn into the tank. The ideal option is a pump and hose. If it is not possible to pump water from a source to a tank, it will have to be carried in buckets by hand and lifted to the roof of the building, and this is quite difficult. To make work easier, you need to plan wide, comfortable paths.

What to consider when developing a project?

As with any other structure, a project is first prepared for a combined toilet with an outdoor shower. When developing it, the following nuances should be taken into account:

• The layout should be convenient. For each room there are separate entrances, so you need to make sure that access to both doors is free. The toilet and outdoor shower should be convenient to use. If there are children, elderly people or disabled people in the family, their needs must be taken into account.
• The design takes into account the features of building materials and finishing. The loads on future structures and, accordingly, the choice of foundation type depend on this.
• The area and height of the premises are calculated based on the personal needs of family members. Most often, structures are built 2.75x2 m or 3x3 m. The height can be 2 or 2.5 m depending on the height of family members. Rooms that are too low are uncomfortable, and rooms that are too high can make it difficult to reach the shower head.

The calculation of the area also depends on the number of plumbing fixtures and furniture. If you build spacious rooms of 1.3x2 m, then there will be enough space for a shower stall, benches, shelves and a washbasin. In addition, the rectangular shape makes it easier to arrange furniture and plumbing fixtures.

When designing, you need to consider which way the door to each room will open. The choice of installation location for the washbasin and the possibility of simultaneous entry of people into the toilet and outdoor shower depend on this

The more carefully the project is developed, the more convenient and durable the design will be. You should not start construction before every little detail has been thought through, because completing and rebuilding is much more difficult and expensive than providing all the necessary amenities once.

Step 1. Selecting materials for construction

The choice is small: usually it comes down to only two materials - wood and brick. For a long-term building that will be used for decades, it is better to choose brick. It is durable and withstands the effects of negative influences well external factors. The disadvantage is that you have to build a reliable foundation. This involves considerable expenses.

A wooden building is cheaper and can be erected faster, but it is not the most durable option. On the other hand, it is difficult to build permanent structures on loose soils, and for them it is better to choose lighter wooden structures. If desired, they can be finished on the outside so that the wood deteriorates less.

Wood captivates with the beauty of its natural pattern. It “breathes”, making the rooms always have a comfortable microclimate. But still, it should be used only for temporary construction and must be treated with antifungal impregnations

Sometimes they build metal combined toilets with an outdoor shower. This is a difficult task, because... you need a welding machine. The building itself may not live up to expectations and quickly collapse due to corrosion, since there is constantly high humidity in the shower. Another option is slate, but it is fragile, and walls made from it are short-lived.

Step #2. Construction of a cesspool

There are two main types of cesspools - with a filter bottom and sealed. The former are easier to construct and do not require special operating costs, but to clean sealed pits you have to call in vacuum cleaners.

There is a nuance: although many summer residents build filter pits, this is prohibited by sanitary standards, because may cause contamination of aquifers.

For the construction of a cesspool, a variety of materials and designs are chosen:

• brick;
• reinforced concrete rings;
• monolithic concrete;
• plastic or metal tanks;
• improvised materials.

The easiest way to build a permanent sealed pit is from brick. To do this, dig a square pit of the required diameter, compact the soil, build a sand cushion and fill the bottom of the hole with concrete. When the material hardens, brick walls are built (the structure should rise 10-20 cm above the ground), plastered and waterproofed with bitumen mastic.

Leaky brick pits are also often built. In this case, a filter bottom is made, and the brick is laid in a checkerboard pattern, leaving gaps. Such structures do not waterproof, because the water goes into the ground, and in the pit itself only silt remains, which must be removed occasionally.

Difficulties may arise with waterproofing a brick pit, because... bitumen mastics are not always durable. Their service life depends on many factors: composition, correct application, operating conditions, climate

It is best to build a sealed pit from monolithic concrete or reinforced concrete well rings. For waterproofing concrete, penetrating compounds or bitumen, bitumen-polymer mastics are used. Combinations of different types of materials are possible to create a durable and reliable waterproofing layer.

Volumetric barrels with a bottom (for sealed ones) or without it (for filter ones) are installed as cesspools. You can also build a structure from scrap materials, for example, from old used tires. There are a lot of options, especially if the drain from the shower is equipped separately.

Installation of a toilet without a cesspool

Sometimes it is not possible to build a cesspool due to the close location of the aquifer. Then you can lead the drain pipe from the shower to the compost heap and install a composting toilet or powder closet. Dry toilets are sold ready-made. They are suitable for installation both outdoors and indoors.

A powder closet is a structure with a small sealed pit in which sewage is sprinkled with peat. The pit is regularly cleaned, its contents taken out for compost. If you don’t live at the dacha during the entire summer season, this is a good option.

To make the powder closet more convenient to use, make a toilet seat with a lid, and cover the waste container with lining. It is best to provide a special door for removing the tank. Ventilation is required.

Although the powder closet is not particularly convenient to use, you don’t have to worry about soil and groundwater contamination, because sewage does not seep into the ground

Relatively recently, an interesting modern variety of powder closet has appeared - the peat toilet. The principle of its operation is the same, but the reservoir with peat is located directly inside the structure. When it is full, it is removed and cleaned. After this, the toilet is ready for use again.

Self-construction of a toilet with shower

Let's consider the option of building a toilet with a summer shower made of wood with your own hands. The structure is relatively lightweight and can be installed on almost any soil. It will require a columnar foundation. The roof can be equipped with a gable roof and covered with metal tiles or other suitable material.

If desired, under the gable roof you can arrange additional space like an attic for storing necessary small items or garden tools

Before starting construction, you need to purchase materials:

• beams (for the top and bottom trim, vertical supports, roof frame);
• edged boards (for lathing, subfloor);
• OSB sheets (for finished floors, ceilings);
• pipes (for sewerage and ventilation);
• plywood (for formwork);
• metal tiles (for the roof);
• bulk materials - gravel or crushed stone, sand;
• metal corners (for fastening beams).

The lumber must be dry (permissible humidity not higher than 22%). There should be no defects on the boards and beams: knots, cracks, signs of fungal attack.

Stage #1. Cesspool and foundation

To begin with, the area is marked for the foundation and cesspool, after which they begin earthworks. A pit with a perimeter of 1 x 1.5 m and a depth of 1.5 to 2 m is dug under the hole. The walls are reinforced with either concrete or brickwork, and the bottom is concreted.

When the hole is ready, you can begin building the foundation. Small holes (20 cm) with a depth of 0.8 m are made under it. A sand cushion (10 cm) is placed at the bottom of the holes and thoroughly compacted.

To strengthen the concrete, 3-5 reinforcement bars are installed. To keep them well, they can be connected with strong metal wire

Formwork and reinforcement are installed in the finished holes, concrete pillars are poured and left for 2-3 days for the material to harden. After this, you can remove the formwork. If it's hot outside, it makes sense to cover the concrete while it dries to prevent it from cracking due to rapid evaporation of moisture.

Stage #2. Construction of the structure

A drain pipe is installed under the shower so that moisture does not accumulate under the structure and destroy its lower part. After this, you can begin building the lower trim. The beams are connected with wooden elements and secured to the concrete using metal pins. A metal frame is made from a channel over the pit.

To build walls, a frame of beams is installed in the corners, and two pillars are placed at a distance of 77 cm from each other in the place of the doorway. If everything is installed correctly, you can begin arranging the top trim. It is attached to self-tapping screws, metal corners and plates.

A ridge board is attached to the top trim. The rafters are made from boards with a pitch of 65 cm, after which the sheathing is installed. The boards should protrude 20 cm beyond the edges of the vertical structure. Later they will serve as a visor. Next, wind boards are attached and the roof is covered with metal tiles.

The position of all vertical elements is verified by level. There should be no deviations, because this threatens the rapid collapse of the finished structure

The floor is laid from boards at least 4 cm thick. They are attached with self-tapping screws to the bottom trim. They immediately make a “step” frame for the future elevation and cover it with 2 cm thick boards. All that remains is to thermally insulate the structure with polystyrene foam and fill the cracks with construction foam. The outer walls and ceiling are covered with boards.

Stage #3. Arrangement of shower and toilet

To install a drainage system, a ditch is dug and a sewer pipe is laid, which is connected to the drain. The floors in the shower are covered with crushed stone, reducing the thickness of its layer near the drain hole. The crushed stone is poured with concrete so that after hardening the floor is formed with a uniform slope towards the drain on all sides. The surface is waterproofed with bitumen mastic.

A wooden floor is laid on top of the concrete floor with a distance between the boards of 1.5-2 cm. The walls are sheathed with boards and treated with waterproofing agents and antiseptics. After this, all surfaces are covered with two layers of yacht varnish. External cladding wood is treated in the same way.

The surface of the concrete floor must be smooth so that water does not linger in the recesses and flows freely into the drain

A tank is placed on the roof of the structure, drain pipes are installed, and ventilation is installed in the toilet. All that remains is to install the doors, take care of the electricity connection for using the premises in the evening, mount the shower head and equip the toilet seat.

Useful video on the topic

When choosing a project and building a toilet and shower under one roof, it is easy to make a mistake. Sometimes even experienced craftsmen experience difficulties, and it is even more difficult for beginners to understand the nuances. We offer video materials that can resolve some questions and enrich you with new ideas.

The video shows one of the successful options for interior and exterior decoration of a toilet with a shower:

Step-by-step video instruction on the construction of a wooden structure covered with slate:

The video is devoted to the issue of arranging ventilation, which allows you to completely get rid of the smell in the toilet:

Current information on building a budget tire cesspool:

There are many options for arranging a toilet and shower in the country, and they all have their own advantages and disadvantages. Correctly assess the conditions on your site and choose correct project Only the owner himself can. The main thing is to take into account all the nuances and calculate your strength. By building a comfortable toilet with a shower, you will provide yourself and your loved ones with completely comfortable living conditions in the country throughout the entire summer season.

You can build a toilet with a cesspool, which is often installed in suburban areas and cottages, yourself. We will describe all the intricacies of this process, starting from laying the foundation and ending with installing doors to the country closet.

Options for simple bathrooms for suburban areas - there is a choice

There are several popular types of toilets, which are most often installed by the owners of suburban areas. These include:

1. The powder closet is a simple design. You don’t even need to equip a special pit for it, designed for collecting feces. Its function is performed by a container that is placed under the toilet. A regular bucket is suitable for this purpose. After a visit to such a closet, the sewage is usually sprinkled with peat or sawdust (to remove the unpleasant odor) like powder. Hence its name.
2. Backlash closet - a toilet with a toilet and a cesspool. The hole is dug outside the house, and the toilet is installed inside the country house.
3. Traditional outdoor bathroom with a cesspool. This is what lovers of country holidays most often decide to do with their own hands at the dacha. The toilet with a cesspool has a basic design. It is not difficult to build it yourself using available tools and simple materials. Such toilets are installed outdoors. Human waste is collected in a hole dug under the toilet. As necessary, it is cleaned by calling a sewer truck. Another option is when the pit is filled, it is filled up and the cabin is moved to another place.

Toilet at the dacha

Next, we will look in detail at how to equip a third type bathroom with your own hands. Before that, we will present the basic rules governing the placement of a toilet in a country house. It must be installed at the following distances from other objects:

• 8 m – from the summer shower and bath;
• 12 m – from the street cellar and residential building;
• 25 m – from a water well (well) and a natural reservoir;
• 1 m – from the fence of the summer cottage and bushes;
• 4 m – from trees and buildings for breeding domestic animals.

Important point! When groundwater in your dacha is higher than 2.5 m, you cannot build a toilet with a cesspool. This is separately stipulated in the Sannorms. In such situations, you can make a powder or backlash closet or install a modern bio-cabin.

Making a cesspool with your own hands - rules

A pit for collecting sewage under a street bathroom in a dacha is dug 2–4 m deep with a mandatory slope towards the back side of the cabin. The bottom of the pit is compacted. And then they are covered with a 15–20 cm layer of clay. It is advisable to concrete the bottom of the pit with a solution of water, cement (1 part) and construction sand (3 parts).

You can avoid using concrete and make the base of the pit filter. In this case, about 15 cm of sand is placed on its bottom, and on top - a small layer of crushed stone (use coarse material) or pebbles average size. Such a bottom will allow some of the sewage to pass into the ground, reducing its total amount. Thanks to this, you will have to clean the toilet much less often.

Cesspool on site

Often, some kind of plastic tank (Eurocubes, large barrels) is placed in the pit. It can be cut from the bottom and top if you plan to make a toilet with a filter bottom yourself, or only from the top when a sealed structure is being built.

Another popular option is to place concrete rings in the cesspool. But it is quite labor-intensive and expensive. Therefore, rings are used only in cases where you often visit the country house and actively use the booth on the street.

A ventilation pipe must be installed behind the back wall of the closet. Its upper end should protrude 10 centimeters above the roof of the building. It is advisable to cover the pipe with an umbrella or conical visor. Then it won't be flooded by rain. The ventilation pipe is inserted into the pit to a depth of 20 cm relative to the floor level of the street bathroom.

Foundation for the toilet - a simple and reliable strip base

If you do not want the cabin to tilt after a couple of years of use, you should make a foundation for the closet. The easiest way is to equip a shallow shallow base 10–15 cm high and about 25 cm wide. You will need plywood and boards, M400 cement, sand, marking cord, wooden stakes, gravel.

Making a foundation for a toilet

Make your own foundation like this:

1. Decide on the location of the closet. Mark its corner points with pegs, between which you stretch a marking cord.
2. You dig a hole, tamp it down, cover the bottom with clay (20 cm layer), then sand (a 6 cm layer is enough), and then also crushed stone or gravel (15 cm).
3. You assemble formwork from plywood and boards (you can’t build a foundation without it).
4. Mix 3 parts sand with 1 part cement, add a little gravel, and fill the resulting mixture with water.
5. Pour concrete into the formwork in separate layers. Important! After pouring one layer, wait until it sets. And only then fill in the next one. Make the topmost layer more liquid (add more water to the mixture) and do not use gravel as an additive.

When arranging a strip foundation, control its horizontal level. Then you will get a truly stable toilet in your country house without distortions or slopes. You can also make a columnar foundation for a country bathroom. More on this later.

Columnar base - do it yourself

Such a foundation is constructed as follows. First, mark out the future building. Since an ordinary country toilet is being built, which has modest geometric parameters, it is allowed to install only corner posts. Supports along the walls (they are called intermediate) are not needed in this case.

You can make the pillars yourself from roofing felt sheets. Just roll a few of them into a tight tube and secure it with steel wire. But it is easier to purchase asbestos-cement pipes or ready-made reinforced concrete supports of the required cross-section and dimensions.

1. Strengthen the bottom of the pit for a toilet in the country and waterproof the cesspool (usually sheets of roofing felt are used).
2. Pour 7 cm of sand onto the moisture-protective layer and tamp it down.
3. Pour a gravel layer (15 cm), it also needs to be compacted.
4. Install the formwork in the pit, secure it with stones, boards, or any other spacers in the required position.
5. Pouring the foundation. The operation, again, is performed layer by layer. Moreover, you need to constantly ensure that the installed pillars do not move during the pouring process.

As you can see, the columnar foundation for a country closet is quite simple to build. If you don’t have the time or desire to arrange a reliable foundation for the toilet, place the stall on car tires. Place them in a dug pit on both sides (opposite) of the closet or in the corners of the building. And then fill all the tires with debris left over from construction work, gravel, and regular sand about 3/4 full. This is the easiest way to build a foundation with your own hands.

We build and equip a cabin in a country bathroom - instructions

An outdoor toilet is usually built from wooden beams with a diameter of 8 by 8 or 5 by 5 cm. There is no point in using material with a larger cross-section. It is best to fasten wood products with metal corners. You will also need four vertical supports and timbers for the toilet roof. The latter should extend beyond the closet by about 40 cm, thereby creating a rear and front canopy.

The frame of the structure needs to be made more durable. To do this, you should fasten the rear and side elements of the building with diagonal wooden jumpers. And on the front side of the closet, where the door will be installed, it is necessary to build a separate skeleton. It is made of two beams (placed vertically) and a horizontal bar placed above them. The height of vertical supports is up to 2 m.

Wooden toilet cubicle

The door is most often made of wood. Tie the required number of beams and mount the finished structure with 2-3 loops. Don't try to make the door too massive. After all, a country toilet is used only in the warm season. It is advisable to cut a small window above the entrance to the closet. Then you can close the door without sitting in the toilet in complete darkness.

It is recommended to install glass in the existing window to prevent insects from flying into the outdoor bathroom. It will also protect the closet from raindrops getting inside. An external and external deadbolt on the door would be a good idea. You can put a simple hook on the inside of the door, and a latch or deadbolt on the outside.

The lining of the toilet is usually done with 1.5–2.5 cm thick wooden boards. They are mounted vertically to the surface of the earth. In this case, the boards should be nailed to the frame with stainless steel nails so that there are no large gaps between the sheathing elements. The wooden roof of a bathroom on the street is covered with roofing felt, and sheets of slate are laid on top.

You can install a toilet in the country closet if you do not want to forget about city amenities even during your country holiday. Important point. An ordinary earthenware toilet cannot be installed in an outdoor toilet. It is quite heavy, so it may well break the floor plank base of the closet.

Buy a metal or plastic toilet. Now any plumbing store sells such products. Their main difference from traditional toilet seats is the absence of a bowl. A similar toilet is made with a straight channel, which tapers at the bottom. Due to this, you will not need to drain the sewage with water.

Construction of a foundation for a fence with brick pillars and sliding gates

Foundation for a summer shower

Setting up a summer shower in your dacha is not difficult. And this place is very popular among summer residents who get the opportunity to enjoy a refreshing shower on hot days. If the structure is constructed correctly, the shower guarantees ease of use and durability of the structure.

The foundation for a shower in a country house must meet the minimum technical requirements to withstand constant exposure to water. Before building the base, you should decide on the location where the shower will be located. This is determined by several criteria:

1. Approach to the shower.
2. Water supply and drainage organization.
3. No interference from neighboring buildings.

A particularly popular design is one in which water is heated by the sun’s rays and poured into the tank using an outlet hose.

It is not difficult to build a foundation for a shower. To do this, a person will need the following list of tools:

1. Shovel and other tools for digging a pit.
2. Concrete mixer or special container for preparing the solution.
3. Hydraulic level for monitoring geometric parameters.
4. Cord for securing the foundation level.
5. Hacksaw.
6. Drill.
7. Master OK.

The materials for a summer shower will require:

1. Wooden beam.
2. Cement.
3. Sand.
4. Crushed stone.
5. Metal poles and pipes.
6. Boards for installing formwork.
7. Fastening elements.

The foundation for a country shower will not experience serious loads, so its construction does not require much effort or precision. In its standard form, the foundation for a shower is built in 1 day and a minimum time is allowed for the mixture to harden.

Types of foundations for showers in the country

When constructing a summer shower, various types of foundations are used. In most cases, they represent smaller versions of standard structures, from which additional elements have been removed to guarantee the strength of large structures.

Types of foundations for a summer shower

The foundation for a summer shower can be,. The choice of a specific type depends on the wishes of the owner and the technical characteristics of the soil at the shower installation site.

How to make a foundation for a summer shower with your own hands

Anyone can build a foundation for a summer shower with their own hands. To do this, you need to have a basic understanding of the construction process and knowledge of earthworks.

Depending on the type of foundation chosen, the order of work on the site differs.

DIY pile foundation for a summer shower

A pile foundation looks like the optimal solution. This is due to the following advantages of this type of foundation:

• Stability of a structure on piles.
• Fast completion of construction work.
• Adjustment of shower height at no additional cost.
• Saving on materials and construction.

Once the location of the shower and its dimensions are known, the base should be marked. The rectangle is secured with pillars. The optimal diameter of piles is 100 mm with a length of 1.5 to 2 meters. In the corners of the future shower, wells are drilled a little more than 1 meter deep and pipes are placed in them. Moreover, they need to be immersed in the ground in such a way that the top edge protrudes 20-30 cm above the ground surface.

The piles are concreted. A special stud is concreted at the top of the column, onto which the shower itself is subsequently mounted.

The pillars are tied with a wooden beam, which is prepared for installation on a stud. The assembled structure is fixed using self-tapping screws. The lower trim ends with the bars connecting to each other.

After installing the frame racks, the upper trim of the future shower is secured. Using a level, the verticality of the structure is controlled at all stages of work. For additional strength, the racks are reinforced with braces. Subsequently, a shower stall is erected and water supply is organized.

A do-it-yourself pile foundation for a shower is the optimal solution for most situations.

Do-it-yourself columnar foundation for a summer shower

In many ways similar to pile. Most of the stages of work are completely identical. The depth of the holes into which the pillars will subsequently be immersed is on average 60 cm and can vary depending on the availability of groundwater and the strength characteristics of the soil. In each well, a formwork with individual dimensions is created. The formwork must be leveled to the building level. For additional strength, 3-4 rods of small cross-section reinforcement are inserted into the pits, which are fastened with tying wire. Waterproofing the base of the pillars is carried out using a piece of roofing felt, which is placed at the bottom. Crushed stone is added to the concrete mixture.

After reaching the required level of strength, the formwork is removed, and in some situations it can be left in place.

The foundation for a summer shower can be built with your own hands in the shortest possible time. If the pillars are placed correctly from a geometric point of view, the outdoor shower will have high strength, stability and performance characteristics.

DIY strip foundation for a summer shower

The foundation for an outdoor shower can also be in the form of a classic strip base. The depth of the monolith strip being formed should not be more than 30 cm, but not less. This value is considered optimal to ensure the strength of the foundation.

This type of foundation is characterized by increased cost and energy consumption. It is rarely used, mainly during construction large sizes shower cabin or when integrating it into an existing structure.

To maintain the geometric dimensions and configuration of the summer shower, a thorough and detailed breakdown of the future foundation is carried out, with the turning points secured with pillars or simple fittings. Compliance with the form is a guarantee of the quality of the structure. It is important to accurately measure each side and check this by checking the diagonals of the rectangle.

After breaking it down, they pull the cord between the posts and proceed to digging a trench with access to the established depth. Formwork is installed along the edges of the trench. The trench is filled with prepared concrete mixture. After the concrete has hardened, its horizontalness is controlled using a hydraulic level.

The foundation for a shower in the country, built with your own hands, is a durable and strong structure. Seasonal use and moderate loads can be easily tolerated by any type of foundation, provided it is created in compliance with technical standards and parameters.

Shower drainage

Already at the stage of designing and constructing the foundation for a summer shower in the country, you should accurately determine the method of draining dirty water. This determines the design of the base and the placement of the required drain holes.

A simple and common solution for a summer shower is the organization of drainage. At a short distance from the summer shower, you need to make a hole several buckets deep. After this, connect the pit and shower with a sewer pipe. Cover the hole with crushed stone. After washing, the water will go into the crushed stone and further into the ground. The drainage is easily decorated and remains invisible, while reliably performing its functions.

The construction of a summer shower is a smaller copy of the construction of a large household premises. Therefore, at all stages of work, it is important to follow universal work rules.

As Ostap Bender would say, a shower for a dacha is not a luxury, but a means of hygiene. Moreover, a remedy of paramount importance: according to medical statistics, people who put off washing after a weekend at the dacha until they arrive home consult doctors about skin and gastrointestinal diseases 12% more often than others; There are no similar data for other types of health disorders.

You can buy a simple country shower, designed only for summer weather, for 10,000 rubles. By spending 2-3 times less, or even using scrap materials, you can build a warm shower with your own hands, suitable for bathing procedures from the beginning to the end of the summer season. In this case, a full range of amateur products is revealed - from a slimy kennel, the dream of a greedy dermatologist (there will be a lot of patients, they will start giving money) through completely functional, hygienic and even almost not spoiling the appearance of the building site, to structures made from, for example, construction waste, at the sight of which an experienced designer nods his head in understanding, see fig.

But, characteristically, there is no medical correlation with the type of shower - purchased, of different price categories, or homemade. A “super-duper company” for 70-100 rubles, with automation and touch-remote control, can turn out to be a breeding ground for infection, and a shower concocted from the dacha in the country will faithfully stand guard over the cleanliness and health of the owners for many years and decades.

Do-it-yourselfers and manufacturers are not to blame here; both of them do not lack effort, skill and consideration. It’s simple - no one really knows how to make it, a country shower. If any regulatory rules its devices exist, then neither the builders, nor the plumbers, nor the orderlies know anything about them. It is clear that you need to do a country shower correctly in essence, i.e. so that it washes, and does not contaminate, and so that the contents of wastewater do not kill the earth and spoil the harvest, but how? It’s dark here, like in a Khrushchev bathroom when the plugs were knocked out.

For example, the minimum volume of a cesspool is 2 cubic meters. m, but this is with the standard volume of runoff, and at the dacha it is several times less. The biochemistry of the cesspool is disgusting, but well balanced; the pit should neither overflow nor dry out. Modern (dry toilets) allow you to reduce the volume of the cesspool and the frequency of calls to the cesspool, but fundamentally the processes in the cesspool do not change. What volume and design do you need for an outdoor shower? I have no idea, as Barack Obama would say. The same applies to other components and structural elements. In fact, those who want to make a country shower competently pull according to the norm, first from here, then from there, and then maybe they will all come together. Or maybe they’ll separate and things will go wrong.

Well, let’s try to include what Mother Nature has so far deprived the American president of so far, in order to say at the end: “Well, at least I’ve found a good ideal!” We will design a summer shower for ourselves based on the principles:

• Hygiene - neither the shower itself nor the water for it should cause harm to those washing, only benefit.
• Environmental friendliness - shower drainage should not be harmful environment neither in the short term (in the form of compliance of the harvest from the site with sanitary standards), nor in the long term (in the form of the quality of water from local water supply sources) perspective, in space and time.
• Practicality, which is also functionality - it should be not only possible, but pleasant and useful not only to freshen up in the heat, but also to wash in any weather from the first to the last trip to the dacha.
• Aesthetics - a shower cabin for a dacha should at least not spoil landscape design plot, but preferably fit organically into it. An alternative is an invisible shower, dismountable or not conspicuous.
• Cost-effective – building a shower should require a minimum of labor, materials and financial costs, without compromising any of the previous qualities.

We will use existing norms and rules, but for verification purposes, so as not to invent nonsense. And we also use a good bit of knowledge about physical and chemical processes in nature and the soul. The data in the regulatory documents is the tip of the iceberg and, since there is no single set of data for country showers, we will have to turn to the basics. To build a shower correctly, let's go from one critical node to another; what is in the middle will then be easier. Actually, in this order:

1. Base.
2. Drain and sump.
3. Choice of design.
4. Possibility of combining functions (shower combined with toilet, etc.)
5. Floor, pallet and platform.
6. Cabin - frame, walls, etc.
7. Diffuser (watering can), pipelines, shut-off valves.
8. Additional equipment – ​​water heater, cabin heating, pumping.

What does all-weather mean?

Item 3 of the list above is especially important for medical reasons. When it is violated, it no longer smells of itchy ankles and shoulders, but of things like pneumonia. A heated shower means more than just hot or warm water.

Let’s say it’s +13 outside, but you need to wash. The cabin has cooled down to the same temperature: insulation will only be useful (let the readers forgive the involuntary pun) if there are heat sources inside the washroom. Without them, you will have to tremble and cower for 2-5 minutes until the warmth of the spray from the watering can warms up the booth. In the meantime, the hot water may run out; the tank is not a vat tank.

So, you need to heat not only the water in the tank, but also the air in the shower. It is highly desirable to create a warm island in a light cabin with large gaps at the bottom and top. We'll see how to achieve this when it comes to additional equipment; For now, as they say, let’s tie a knot.

Children's question

Why is there a separate shower? In the apartment he is together. Because the dacha plots are not equipped with sewerage. Here it is appropriate to remember the rule: the cesspool must be located at least 15 m away from residential buildings. The point is not only in the miasma, but also in the fact that the filtrate from the cesspool can wash away the foundation of the house with all that it entails. It is still possible to install a shower in a country house. Then, if the house is heated, then the shower will be all-season.

Note: a bioseptic tank that produces almost no harmful fumes can, under certain conditions, be moved 4-5 m closer to the house. But this topic already relates to the construction of country toilets.

Country shower device

Base

When zero is not needed

There is no need for a zero cycle of dacha-shower work in the following cases, see fig. below:

• When using a compact portable shower, on the left in Fig.
• If the shower with adjacent outbuildings is ready-made modular, in the center in Fig.
• If the cabin is on a frame made of plastic pipes (propylene or PVC) with soft lining, it’s on the right there.

A compact shower in a suitcase (there is a large selection on sale) is used in any random place, but is inconvenient in terms of heating water; It is difficult to adapt a water heater to it, and compactness and mobility are immediately lost. Container - rinse for one or two people. This does not require a shower or a cesspool - there is not enough water in the tank, and no matter who and how they wash, the local ecology will digest such a volley of emissions.

Modular showers are designed to be installed directly on the ground. They are equipped with adjustable legs, which, when installed permanently, allows them to compensate for current soil movements. Modular seats common use Citizens are more familiar with public dry toilets, but in addition to them and modular showers, they also produce kitchens, shelters, etc., so that you can assemble a full-fledged utility unit from the modules. This pleasure is by no means cheap; more modules are used to organize the convenience of professional field teams. A cesspool is not required, you only need to promptly change the filler of the built-in septic tank.

The frames of soft showers are placed on stakes made of reinforcing bars driven into the ground. If the frame is made of PP water pipes, then it is assembled using standard connectors, but one size larger, and not by soldering, but with self-tapping screws. The cabin turns out to be collapsible and quite reliable, because The frame is lightly loaded and absolutely repairable. The covering is most often made of colored tarpaulin: in hot weather the cabin is less parky, in cool weather it is warmer, and tarpaulin, unlike film, does not stick unpleasantly to a wet body. This design will withstand a 12-magnitude earthquake, as long as the earth itself does not disappear from under the shower. A cesspool is needed, so soft showers are not particularly popular: if you dig a hole, then it’s better to make a foundation, and put something more substantial and more attractive on it.

Under plastic

It is possible to build a shower stall from light, elastic and chemically resistant materials with rigid cladding (see below) without a foundation, even on very heaving soil. To prevent it from tipping over, in this case, 30-40 cm of a non-fluffy pillow is enough. Specifically, sand and gravel backfill in layers of equal thickness. The thickness of the cushion is approximate; in fact, the upper humus layer of the soil is removed to the underlying rock: loam, sandy loam. Summer cottages they don’t stand out on meter-long chernozems, so you don’t have to dig very deep, but still - 30 cm, of which 15 is sand and 15 is gravel, this is the minimum. What if it becomes warped after winter, you can move the booth, straighten the cushion, and put it back as it was.

Note: The plastic shower is attached to the ground with the lower ends of the pipes, placed on fittings driven into the ground, just like a soft shower. But there is a difference - since the structure is permanent, the stakes are driven into the ground at least 0.35 m below the bottom of the pillow, and better, if local conditions allow, to the freezing depth, then seasonal distortions are excluded.

Under the tree

In principle, a wooden shower can also be placed simply on a pillow, but double impregnation of wood with a water-polymer emulsion, biocides and then treatment with hot bitumen will protect the supporting frame and floor from rotting for 3-10 years, depending on local conditions. Wood treated in this way can maintain its strength for 30-40 years, but mold fungi and bacteria will get to where they put their feet and where their bodies rub much faster. Therefore, a shower cabin made of natural lumber should be raised above the ground by at least 20-25 cm, and for a hygienic cesspool (see below) - by 35-40 cm.

An example of the implementation of a foundation for a country shower

The means to ensure these requirements have been known for a long time - columnar or pile foundation. For such a light and freely “acting out” wooden structure, for reasons of economy, the second one is preferable. There is no need to buy expensive ones; it is better to make do with homemade ones. Simply - sections of pipes with a diameter of 60-150 mm (according to availability) with ends flattened into a spear. Next - a sledgehammer or a homemade woman (it’s much easier to work with it), and - to the calculated freezing depth for the given area.

The location of the piles is 1 per corner and every full or incomplete 1.5 m of the contour. After trimming the protruding ends with a grinder using a hose level, anchor bolts (M12 - M16) are welded to the piles; The lower support frame - grillage - is placed on them and tightened with nuts and washers 40-60 mm in diameter.

An alternative option, again, depending on the availability of materials, is drilled piles made from asbestos-cement pipes. The wells are drilled to the same freezing depth using a hand drill. It would be very good if there was a camouflage nozzle for it, with which to drill wells for strip-pile foundation on heaving soils. Reinforcement of piles and filling them with concrete are also similar this case. Asbestos-cement piles are cut to height using a grinder with a circle on the stone before reinforcement and pouring. Anchor bolts are walled up to a depth of 120 mm.

Metal look

The foundation for a shower on a metal frame is the same as for a wooden one: If wood rots, then metal rusts. In this case, driven metal piles are preferable, and a 50-80 mm channel grillage is welded to them.

Under the brick

Brick shower in the country - very rare, labor-intensive and expensive. But it has a valuable advantage - it is easy to heat. It is enough to pass the return from the tank to the water heater through an old thin-walled heating radiator (see below), and in a closet with half-brick walls, insulation with 30 mm packaging foam, dimensions 1.2x1.2 m in plan and ceiling height 2.2 m at +8 outside in 4-5 hours it will be +22.

Brick buildings are not elastic, they are heavy, and therefore The foundation for a brick shower needs to be strong and stable. Since the building is in this case small, the most optimal in terms of labor intensity and costs is slab monolithic foundation. Its construction is simple: a solid (required!) reinforced concrete slab with a thickness of 170-300 mm is placed on the non-heaving cushion described above and with a projection of 0.3-0.5 m beyond the contour of the building, this will be a blind area.

The brand of concrete does not matter much, M150 is enough. Reinforcement - a cage with a mesh (150-200) x (300-400) mm made of 12 mm rod. If you plan to equip the compact cesspool described below, then it is better to cast the slab on site, surrounding the recess for the barrel with formwork.

cesspool

As already mentioned, in order to maintain the biochemistry in the sewer pit necessary for the disposal of wastewater to a naturally processed level of pollution, the moisture content in it must be kept within certain limits. For example, the instructions for branded fillers for septic tanks clearly indicate: do not fill, it will sour and stink. Don’t let it dry out, the microflora will die and stop working altogether.

It is obvious that the drain from the shower is too liquid for a general cesspool at the dacha. But its chemical composition also matters: there is practically no household organic matter, a breeding ground for beneficial bacteria in the pit. Unless someone will use the shower, like Poligraf Poligrafych Sharikov from “Heart of a Dog,” using the toilet. But there is an excess of alkalis that are harmful to them (from soap) and detergents (surfactants, surfactants), from shampoos, gels, etc.

Therefore, discharging wastewater from the shower and toilet in a dacha into a common pit is a gross mistake from a biochemical point of view. The kitchen can also be used together with the toilet, but the shower needs to be placed separately in a special pit. In a city apartment, the situation is different: there, until the wastewater reaches the treatment plant, everything will mix and react so much that only the percentage composition of simple compounds and elements will matter. In any case, it is impossible to build a separate sewer system for the bathroom and toilet in the city.

Note: What kind of abominations do researchers sometimes have to delve into, eh? But it’s something necessary and useful.

Here the question arises: should we take out the extra 2 cubic meters of soil? Since the septic tank does not recycle the shower drain? And one hundred square meters of land is lost: from the harvest from the vicinity of a simple pit, the consumer supervision department will shriek and shy away when the analysis is done.

This is not at all necessary, if you take into account the time of heating the water, the subsequent maximum frequency of using the country shower and the volume of water in the tank (there can be no more one-time flow). That is, we are faced with 2 tasks: the first is to release the runoff into the ground little by little, so that organic acids from the soil have time to neutralize alkalis and decompose detergents. The second is to bring them into the soil below the fertile layer so as not to kill soil micro-living creatures. And organic acids, a product of its vital activity, will leak from above.

Calculations, which, unfortunately, there is no space to describe here, show that a drain of 100 l/hour or 50 l in one gulp (for a country shower for normal users, this is, as they say, above the roof), must be discharged into the ground at a depth of no less than 2 thickness of the humus layer. Conclusion: a regular 200-liter barrel with a height of 850 mm will help us out. A fertile layer of 40 cm is not a dacha, it is Eldorado. A smaller plastic barrel will also work, as long as its volume is not less than a one-time discharge (let’s take the tank’s capacity for this), and its height is at least 2 times the thickness of humus.

Note: if you feel sorry for the barrel, the shell of the pit can be made from old tires. Only then will it be necessary to periodically add bleach to the pit; in the resulting side cavities, with frequent use, wastewater will stagnate.

From theory to practice

It is not difficult to make a compact and cheap cesspool for a shower from a barrel. First, we dig a pit according to the diagram in Fig. to a depth equal to the height of the barrel. The distance from the siphon spout to the neck of the barrel is not critical; a plastic corrugated hose will reach. Then we cut off the bottom and the lid with the neck from the barrel. The bottom will no longer be needed, and we cut off a segment from the lid to create an inspection hatch; it will need a tight lid.

We install the barrel in the pit and fill it back with soil. Next is the filter. Pour fine crushed stone into the cesspool in a layer of 15-20 cm. In a bucket of water, stir 1-1.5 kg of any clay until it becomes “milk”, and pour the backfill evenly in a thin stream until the clay milk covers it. After a day or two, when the water has gone and the clay has dried, we stir up the filter layer, often piercing it thickly with a pointed reinforcement. All that remains is to weld the lid, and after building the shower, insert the siphon spout into the neck and seal it with construction foam. You can insert a tee into the neck and supply drainage from the kitchen here; in terms of bio-chemistry and simple chemistry, it is more similar to a shower than to a toilet.

Note: If there is construction going on nearby and the concrete mixer is free, you can mix porous concrete, from which filters are made when building wells. Then backfill with clay impregnation is not needed - 2-3 buckets of the porous mixture are simply dumped into a cesspool and leveled.

Odor is excluded from such a cesspool by design. It is convenient to inspect and, if necessary, clean it, and the cost of labor and money is nothing at all; The useful area, except for that under the shower, is not withdrawn from economic use. At the author of the article’s dacha, a shower cesspool made from a barrel has been working properly for almost 20 years. There was no need to clean it even once (they go to the dacha on weekends and spend their holidays there). The inside of the barrel was covered with a dense layer of some chemical compounds, but was not rusted through. Fruits from plants in the immediate vicinity of the pit were repeatedly submitted for analysis to the sanitary station, which invariably showed their complete suitability for food. For testing, they drilled a water well 5 m from the pit - the water turned out to be good.

More about shower and toilet

A shower with a cesspool of this type can be placed in a block with a toilet. For the latter, by the way, if the dacha is summer, it is not at all necessary to make a rather complex and expensive septic tank, not to mention an antediluvian two-cube pit. You can do without a toilet cesspool altogether by installing a powder closet. More precisely, a powder toilet, because... This is a French idea. Sortie in French exit; toilet, respectively - latrine. The powder closet can only be used in the warm season, but it was the study of the processes in it that led to the invention of dry closets. However, this is again about country toilets, which require a separate analysis.

What will the shower be like?

Now that we know how much work is needed to arrange a shower area, and in what cases we can do without it, it’s time to decide - what kind of shower will we make? Or buy? In general, the choice is:

• Compact portable shower.
• Street extension to the house.
• Garden cabin.
• Capital shower.
• Household complex in shower.
• Shower room in the house.

Compact - not compact

You don’t have to take a portable shower with you everywhere. Nobody bothers you to use it constantly in one place. In the same way, no one bothers you to fill a waterskin with hot water, heated over a fire or in a stove, immediately before washing. The only additional thing required is fencing.

Shower enclosures for mobile showers are sold complete with the shower itself or as an option. But, frankly speaking, it’s not worth the candle - it’s easier to make a shower fence yourself. The simplest, but very convenient option is a semicircular guide attached to the wall of the house, see figure, and a curtain. It is not necessary to bend a stainless steel pipe; you can get by with a propylene water pipe, put on the same pins made of reinforcing bars. Then the fence will be completely collapsible. It is better to sew the curtain from colored tarpaulin (propylene is also preferable); why - stated above.

Cabin on the street

Users of “permanent” showers sooner or later come to the conclusion that the waterskin needs to be replaced with a tank: 6-12 liters is not enough for one, but definitely not enough for a family. Now we have an outdoor shower stall, and the problem of drainage has arisen. This is usually solved by draining water down a slope or gutter into a flowerbed, on the assumption that the flowers are not eaten. But from the point of view of caring for nature, this is, of course, wrong. And the soil, if the shower is used frequently, may turn sour, and then the entire flowerbed will disappear. It’s better to choose the time, at the lower edge of the sewer slope (usually the blind area of ​​a house) to mold a catch socket out of cement, and bury a 40-mm PVC sewer pipe to the sewer pit in the ground. For the one described above, one 3-m pipe is enough; its slope needs to be 4-10 cm/m.

If you want to quickly and easily replace the curtain with something more impressive, then the same arched pipe on the wall will help out. How a simple rigid-sheathed booth is made from a booth with a curtain is shown schematically in Fig. Within the simplified blind area of ​​the building, which is only 60 cm wide, we get a fairly comfortable (45 cm aisles, semicircular washing area 60x120 cm in plan) and completely invisible booth. Sheathing and fence material can be any material that is sufficiently rigid and allows some bending. Polycarbonate is best; we will talk about it later. In this case, the fence of the labyrinthine entrance can be curved, resulting in a quite elegant extension.

Shower in the garden

However, there is no need to rush to dig and build: there is another simple option - a garden shower. This is a cabin on a light frame with soft opaque lining, see fig. Its highlight is that the cabin is placed in a new place on each visit, or rearranged once a week. It is enough to move it 2-3 m away from the previous one, and the local ecology will fully tolerate the increased flow.

Capital

A capital shower differs from a simple cabin not only in that it stands on a foundation; as we will see below, it may not exist. A major shower must have a changing room, although exhibitionism in certain circles is now, if not the norm, then certainly fashionable. However, when washing, there is no need to demonstrate swimsuit models with graceful forms or a sculpted torso, as shown in advertising photographs.

Washing completely without clothes is necessary primarily for sanitary and hygienic reasons. The reason is dust in the fabric and hems of clothing. Having become limp, and even in contact with a wet body, it can cause skin diseases exactly in those places where you least want them. According to the rules of field work in countries that widely use seasonal migrant agricultural workers, i.e. Unaccustomed to digging in the ground, after a shift, after washing, be sure to put on clean underwear. Outerwear can be left to work, but underwear can only be fresh. In any case, it is uncivilized to be like the ancient nomads, for whom dirt up to a centimeter thick is not yet dirt, and then it falls off on its own.

How a shower with a changing room should be arranged is shown in Fig. dimensions - in cm. Clothes are protected from splashes by a curtain, and shoes are protected from getting wet by a grille, wooden or made of propylene pipes with self-tapping screws, see below. In this case, a curtain made of film is more suitable - a tarpaulin, not blown by the wind, will take a long time to dry, and if it is not propylene, but cotton, it can resist.

Note: for people of average height and build, so that when bending over dropped soap they don’t knock down the door or break the walls with their fifth point, the dimensions of the washing room in plan can be reduced to 80x100 cm. Then the entrance, where the curtain hangs, will be on the larger side.

All in one

The change house at the dacha does not play the same role as at construction sites and field work. In any case, the cesspool must be located as far from housing as the conditions on the site allow. And having a meal, once you’ve escaped the bustle of the city, is more pleasant and healthier in the open air. Therefore, a dacha cabin often includes a kitchen with a veranda along with a shower and toilet.

The ultimate, so to speak, design diagrams for country cabins are shown in Fig. The left one is the simplest, 1.8 x 1 m, on concrete blocks without a foundation. Toilet – powder closet or bio; the dressing room can be used as a shelter in case of bad weather. Purpose – temporary, for the period of construction of the house.

On the right is a permanent change house. The foundation is slab, see above. The walls are made of aerated concrete 75 mm + 12 mm on each side for finishing. The roof is a flat slate slate. If there are a lot of people, a large shower can also be used as a refuge; The size of the kitchen allows you to build or install a wood stove. It can be built, with the average skill of a craftsman and the presence of a helper, over a weekend, not counting the technological break for gaining concrete strength and time for finishing work.

Note, joke: Don’t rush to build something like this, otherwise who knows when you’ll get around to a real house.

In the house

A country shower in a house, since it is in a residential area, must meet all sanitation and hygiene requirements. This is a separate topic; we will discuss some features in relation to the dacha further along the course of the presentation.

Floor, tray, grate

Floor

The floor in the country shower is made of wood; capital, as in a big house, is too labor-intensive and expensive. In a cabin measuring up to 1.5 x 1.5 m, if a tongue-and-groove board is used for the flooring, logs are not needed. If the cabin is not square, cut the decking boards to the size of the short side, this will be stronger.

To prevent the wood from rotting from moisture, it, of course, needs to be treated. Nowadays, this can be done without complex and time-consuming operations such as scalding with bitumen, two-layer painting with zinc oil or titanium white, etc. Preparation of boards for the cabin floor is reduced, after sawing to size, to double treatment with a water-polymer emulsion; The second treatment can be done an hour after the first.

Then - drying. At temperatures above 22 in the shade and drying in direct sunlight, the boards will be ready for further use in the evening if they were processed in the morning; at 15 degrees and drying in the shade - by the next morning.

After drying, the wood is impregnated with any wood biocide. You just need to read on the packaging to see if the product is intended for impregnation under pressure; this is not suitable. It is advisable to carry out impregnation in the sun in warm weather, allowing the boards to warm up for an hour or two.

3-4 hours after impregnation, you can apply acrylic varnish in 2 layers. The first one will dry out in the evening, then you can varnish it a second time. The next morning the floor can be laid. Thus, if you choose a nice day, you can finish a floor that will last at least 10 years in a weekend, and still have time left.

Pallet

Shower trays, if you don't already know, come in low and high varieties. The first ones are placed in a cutout or recess in the floor, and the second ones are actually a standing bathtub: they are installed on legs and equipped with a screen. Both come in sizes from 800x800 to 1580x1580 mm, straight and angular, round or faceted, as well as round, oval and complex shapes. Made from acrylic or enameled sheet steel. The former are more expensive and more durable; the latter are cheaper.

For a cottage with a separate shower on the premises, a straight, low shower tray is needed, see figure on the right. The most popular size and material is steel 1000x1000 mm. Its advantages:

• Easy installation and sealing: a sausage of construction foam is applied along the contour of the cutout and a pallet is placed immediately before it hardens; the squeezed-out excess foam is removed.
• Saving wood and work: by making the cabin support frame (see below) the inside width of the outer size of the pallet bath, we get rid of most of the flooring. It is enough to cover the top of the frame with scraps of boards so that the pallet does not end up in the hole.
• Cheap: with a relatively low intensity of use of a country shower, a steel tray with careful use will last at least 15 years.
• Durability in dacha conditions: acrylic pallets in dachas do not withstand the design service life, because... They are afraid of abrasive wear by sand, which cannot be avoided outside the city.

Note: if there is a shower with a dressing room, you can take a tray 800x1000, see above. If there are people at the dacha with above average corpulence, then the best would be a 1200x1200 pallet

A country shower in a house requires a high tray. The reason is that the cutout will weaken the floor, unless it is formed according to the complete pattern. And even then, the slotting and concrete work will take a lot of time and effort, plus cutting a channel for the sewer pipe. If the house has not yet been built, there is also no need to include a low pallet in a project with a wooden floor: the installation step of the joists turns out to be too large for a flooring of this size.

It is more profitable to purchase a high tray complete with a cabin and screen. Then it is better to take a corner shower: a shower corner of the same overall dimensions takes up much less usable space in a small room and turns out to be even more convenient than a straight shower.

As for installation, it is advisable to do it yourself. Firstly, it will be too expensive for the master to travel out of town, he wastes a day, and in a day he can install up to 3 cabins, if not more. Secondly, the water supply and drainage at the dacha are almost always non-standard, which will be even more expensive. Therefore, how to install a shower cabin with a high tray yourself, see the video below.

Video: self-assembly and installation of a shower cabin

And the following is about the subtleties of the corners:

In addition, before purchasing, you will need to read the original instructions, because The installation methods for showers from different manufacturers are somewhat different.

Lattice

In the locker room, a grate under your feet is a must to prevent your shoes from getting wet. In a washing room with a low tray, a grate above it is highly desirable, because... due to the lack of a threshold, the danger of slipping and falling when entering the pallet is increased.

Usually the lattice is made of wood from slats from 30x30 to boards 100x40. The preparation of wood is the same as for the floor, but it is advisable, instead of varnishing, to coat the grate with an acrylic compound for repairing bathtubs, then its resistance to wear by shoe soles will increase significantly. And for the floor, coating with a compound will not be superfluous; In this case, the pan may not be sealed with foam; the thick mixture will close the gap.

The best, and if you take into account the prices for varnish, even cheaper, grille is obtained from PP pipes assembled with self-tapping screws. Pipes need 1/2″; installation step – 1.5 outer diameter. The pitch of the crossbars from the same pipe is 300-400 mm. There is a little trick here: after assembling the grate, a little polyurethane foam is poured into all the gaping ends so that the grate inside does not become sour from dampness.

Tank

A shower tank for a dacha must be equipped with a sanitary drainage with a shut-off valve, indicated in brown in Fig. It is placed at the lowest point of the vessel, and the source is made flush with the bottom. Before a long break in use (at least a week), the tank is completely emptied through drainage. It is advisable to drain the sediment regularly, with the same frequency, even with constant use. Please note that at the dacha the probability of spores and eggs of unwanted microorganisms getting into the tank is many times higher - orders of magnitude higher than in a city apartment. The author knows of a case where... crucian carp snouts were found in the shower tank. They obviously ate mosquito larvae that swarmed there.

The second condition is that the selection pipe must be placed higher so that clean water, and not sludge, splashes from the watering can. Finally, if the water is heated in the tank, its thermosiphon circulation must also occur, otherwise most of the heater’s power will go to waste. That is, the hot water supply pipe should be as high as possible.

If the tank is powered from a water supply system, then it requires a float valve and an overflow with a clearing area of ​​at least 2 times that of the supply pipe. There needs to be enough clearance above the float so that it does not rest against the tank lid, completely blocking the water supply. For such a case, a tank diagram with recommended dimensions is shown on the left in Fig.

For a manually filled tank, the pipe layout changes, because... The water level in it decreases during use. Its diagram is shown on the right in Fig. An indispensable condition is that the hot water supply must be located at least a little (5-7 mm at least) above the outlet source, and the mouth of the supply pipe must be located further away from the outlet source; Selective is located approximately in the middle between them. It is advisable to drain the sediment from such a tank immediately after each emptying so that the sediment does not clog the water heater.

What is it made of?

Ready-made tanks for showers different sizes, containers fully equipped with fittings are available in a wide range. But, since our task is to implement everything entirely with our own hands, then we will see how to make the tank ourselves.

The most common tanks for country showers are made from barrels laid on their sides; then it is convenient to place a drainage system, and the loss of water into sediment becomes minimal. In this case, a wide filling and inspection hatch is cut out of a 200-liter steel barrel and through it, after welding the pipes, the inside of the container is painted with yacht acrylic enamel or the same compound for repairing bathtubs. Outdated long way– primed with a rust primer and painted with red lead and oil.

Plastic barrels do not require preparation from the inside, but the problem of sealing the connections arises: almost nothing sticks to polyethylene and polypropylene, and they cannot be connected by soldering, like water pipes. Fortunately, plastic barrels are produced with wide necks, through which it is possible to install M12-M16 threaded fittings with a flange and a rubber gasket, and on the outside - also with a gasket and washer; everything is tightened with a nut. To prevent the pipe from being torn out by thermal deformations, the diameter of the flange and washer must be from 3 outer diameters of the fitting, but not less than 40 mm.

Note: the alternative method - sealing with silicone - does not justify itself; after 2-3 seasons the joints begin to leak.

About a tank from an old washing machine

It's no secret that many country showers have tanks from unusable old washing machines. Their capacity is small, for 2-3 washes quickly, but otherwise they are very good: they do not rust, drainage is automatically obtained from the previous drain pipe, and the input and output of the rest is easy to carry out through the opening for the activator, there is already a stamping for the gasket and holes for fasteners By covering such a tank with glass on silicone (preferably acrylic), we will obtain effective solar heating of water (see below), because, repeatedly reflected from the internal shiny walls, the radiation of the Sun will be almost completely absorbed by the water.

Cabin

Grillage

The supporting frame of the cabin is most often made of wood; under dacha conditions, it loses strength more slowly than a thin-walled (1.5-2.5 mm) metal profile. The channel, of course, will last longer, but will cost more. It is more suitable for welded structures, see above.

As for wood, timber of 100x100 or even 60x60 is suitable for a light cabin, and 150x150 for heavy-duty showers. Wood processing is generally the same as for flooring, but instead of varnishing, it is impregnated twice or thrice with heated bitumen mastic. In combination with a water-polymer emulsion, this will ensure durability of at least 12 years; EPE, penetrating deeply into the pores of wood, makes them unsuitable for the germination of mold spores.

How high?

The rise of the grillage above the ground, and the corresponding protrusion of the foundation piles, is calculated as the sum of 200-250 mm for ventilation, plus the depth of the tray, plus the technological height of the siphon and another 50-70 mm of reserve. So, for a low pallet this will be 320-450 mm, i.e. 2-3 more steps are needed at the entrance.

Frame

A wooden shower is assembled, just like - on load-bearing poles, only the problems of the roof disappear: there is either no roof at all, or it is simply sloping. The wall frames are reinforced with diagonal braces, one per side, from a 100x40 board or the same board, spread in half lengthwise, i.e. 50x40, and installed flat. The latter option saves material, but takes up space inside the cabin.

A metal frame usually uses a corrugated pipe from 25x25x1.5 to 40x40x2. The profile frame is assembled by welding, primed and painted. Thin-walled galvanized profiles are cheaper and easier to assemble - using self-tapping screws - but they do not last long; this material is not intended for external use at all.

The best material for a shower frame is 1/2″ and 3/4″ propylene water pipes. The assembly diagram is the same as for wood: frame and diagonal. In this case, there is no need to solder the plastic; it is enough to select standard connectors so that the pipe fits into them more tightly, and assemble them with self-tapping screws. Phosphated (black) ones hold up better in the shower. The diameter of the screws is 4.2 mm; length - 1-1.5 mm shorter than the outer diameter of the connector, so that the tip does not stick out or get scratched.

Sheathing

In general, any sheet finishing materials for external use are suitable for covering a shower: corrugated sheets, plastic lining, siding, polycarbonate, the top row in Fig. they can be attached to any frame either with standard fasteners, or, if the frame is propylene, with brackets and clamps.

Of all the cladding materials, polycarbonate stands out. Its main advantage is that the polycarbonate shower is self-heating. Features of the interaction of cellular polycarbonate with sunlight are such that an increased energy density of infrared (thermal, IR) radiation is created inside the cabin. Simply put, a kind of warm cocoon appears, even if the shower is without a roof and with a wide ventilation gap below. Cellular polycarbonate was originally developed for covering greenhouses and greenhouses.

The shower cabin is lined on all sides, cramped, i.e. Its glazing area is large relative to its volume, and tomatoes are not grown in it in winter. Therefore, the cheapest sheet of structure 2R with a thickness of 4 mm from the most alternative manufacturer is suitable for covering the shower. There is no need to be afraid of peeking: milky, non-translucent polycarbonate is produced specifically for showers.

Second important factor– a honeycomb sheet, if oriented vertically with internal channels and bent, acquires the properties of a prestressed structure (PSS): high strength and rigidity. That is, a very durable and lightweight round cabin can be made on a frame from just 2 hoops bent from PP pipe, upper and lower. The hoops will also be pre-stressed and will add a fair amount of overall strength.

Finally, by tightly wrapping the sheet to a curved template and heating it for 20-30 hours to 70-80 degrees, the bend of the sheet can be fixed. This technique is often used by designers; in particular for original showers without frame, see fig. on right.

Good old wood is also widely used for showers, pre-treated as for flooring, or even raw, at least in the form of wattle, the bottom row in Fig. higher. Its advantages are accessibility, ease of processing, and for large showers under the roof - wood retains heat well. Heat loss through wooden cladding made of forty-size boards is less than through brick cladding made of half a brick.

Note: It is undesirable to use layered and modified wood materials - plywood, fiberboard, chipboard, MDF - for shower cladding; they delaminate.

Armature

What distinguishes a country garden shower from a regular shower is, first of all, the shower head (spout, diffuser): its design includes an adjusting valve, see fig. If the dacha has separate hot water, then this is not suitable - there are no diffusers with a standard two-way valve on sale. However, it is not difficult to make a watering can with a valve yourself; it does not have any fundamental features. Other shut-off valves are any ordinary ones, but it is easier and cheaper to make pipelines flexible, from a reinforced garden hose.

Heating and warming

Now let’s finally understand what a warm shower is. In capital showers, as mentioned above, heating the washing area will ensure that the return flow from the tank to the water heater passes through the heating register, see fig. For constant heating of residential premises, this scheme is a complete heresy, but in the shower it is quite workable without loss of overall efficiency.

The cheapest and fastest water heating is provided by a low-power flow-through gas boiler or, if bottled gas, an electric boiler. Let's leave both of them, because... it is impossible to make them in accordance with safety requirements outside industrial conditions: a heating element with grounding is only the basis, you also need automatic temperature control, emergency protection against boiling, emptying, overheating of the heating element due to scale fouling or sediment entrainment, and some other necessary little things.

Without heat exchanger

The easiest way, which summer residents have been using since time immemorial, is to heat the water with the Sun. But the well-known tank covered in bitumen is not the best solution; the fact is that bitumen or simple black (non-selective) paint is black only in visible light, but reflects IR quite well.

2 methods of primitive solar water heating are shown in Fig. on right. The first (left position) uses the fact that water itself actively absorbs IR and ultraviolet (UV) radiation. The latter carries a lot of energy, but you need a well-transmitting UV tank, i.e. expensive acrylic. In the other, which is on the right pos. The hose’s own heat capacity is used: when the water flows, it gives off the accumulated heat to it, so it is possible to obtain more warm water than was originally in the volume of the pipe.

With register and potty

Direct heating of water is bad because it depends on the weather and time of year: clouds have rolled in - the water is cold, and you can only get hot water in the very heat, when a little warm is enough. To heat water well, not only in warm weather and not only in clear weather, a water heater for a shower must, firstly, somehow collect solar radiation, the energy density of which is relatively low, and transfer it to water, the heat capacity of which is relatively high. An indispensable condition in order to “sew together” these requirements is thermosiphon or forced circulation of water in the system, i.e. a heat exchanger is needed, but how to heat it is a second matter.

A simple heat exchange register is a coil (on the left in the figure) or a U-shaped elbow made of copper or aluminum thin-walled tube. It can be laid flat with a slope, in the middle there; then the hot side must be raised above the cold side by no less than the internal diameter of the tube, otherwise internal convection, boiling and rupture may develop even with a relatively small influx of energy.

In some cases, it is more convenient to use a heat exchanger in the form of a sealed vessel, on the right in Fig. The principle of “theromosyphon” is observed here in that the outlet (hot) pipe is located as high as possible from the cold one. In this case, complete sealing is needed, without the slightest leak!

From the stove

A water heating register can be built into a country heating and cooking stove, but this is already a question of the design of the stoves, and where the hot water goes afterwards, the stove, by and large, doesn’t care. A solar oven looks much more interesting in terms of heating water for showers. In our latitudes it is not suitable for cooking, but a shower will provide hot water and the simplest (see figure) in spring and autumn in cloudy weather.

The pattern of such a stove is shown in the following. rice. Material – any foil, even cardboard. Please note that the reflector must be metal; it reflects the entire spectrum of radiation, while household mirrors reflect only the visible part. For IR clouds are much more transparent, while UV clouds carry a lot of energy even in small quantities.

The diagram of a stationary solar oven, more complicated, but much more efficient, is shown in the following. rice. The reflector is assembled from pieces (can be scraps) of galvanized silicone. The reflector fragments are installed one by one, adjusting (adjusting) so that the light spot lies on the bottom of the heated vessel; The already installed and adjusted mirrors are still covered with something. For this stove and the one described before it, a compact heat exchanger is needed; it is installed instead of cooking utensils.

Panels

Solar panels are not that complicated and do not require any adjustment. These are, strictly speaking, flat boxes or other containers blackened from the inside and glazed, in which a strong greenhouse effect is created; A coil is installed inside such a mini-greenhouse, the diagram on the left in Fig. Modern solar panels use truly space-age technologies, and some models in winter, on a cloudy day at -20 outside, release water into the system with a temperature of +70.

We don’t need such super-efficiency; we just need to heat 50-100 liters of water from +15 to +40 in 2-4 hours. Even the simplest design like those shown in the following can cope with this task. poses of the same fig. And in Fig. Below (at the top position - with an installation diagram and a use case for heating a house) are drawings of homemade solar panels, comparable in efficiency to individual industrial designs. The first panel is completely homemade; the heat exchanger is soldered from a copper tube. In the one below, it was used with a radiator from an old, unusable refrigerator; The dimensions of the box are adjusted to fit the cash.

And in the dark?

If the kitchen at the dacha is gasified, no matter from the main line or a cylinder, then you can heat water for the shower for free at any time of the year in any weather, day or night. How? Due to waste heat (essentially its own heat loss) from the gas stove. To do this, a copper coil from a 6-10 mm tube is used to circle the burners, as shown in Fig. This method was invented back in Stalin’s times, when people heard that somewhere at the top, a wonder had appeared - hot water in the tap.

To tilt the heat exchanger, pieces of soft wire are wound around its hot tube, and their whiskers are used either as legs or as hooks. Remember: the heating is intense, without tilting the coil will boil and burst instantly! It is also necessary to maintain other dimensions so as not to burn or dry out the flexible hoses connecting the coil to the tank. What else you need to remember is that the slope of the hot tube should be greater than the cold one, and the coil heats well only if the burning burners are occupied by cooking utensils. That is, there is no point in burning gas idle; you need to heat the water during cooking. As a rule, within an hour of preparing dinner, a 50-liter tank heats up to 40-45 degrees.

Finally

Finally, let’s mention one curiosity – the supposedly hydromassage shower. In Fig. the simplest model is shown on the right (the price, by the way, is not simple - about 300 euros), but installations with 6 and even 10 diffusers are produced, loudly called nozzles in advertising brochures.

Such perfumes are just a tribute to fashion, if not the fabrications of marketers in a consumer society; simply - wiring. For real hydromassage, it is necessary to reduce muscle tone under conditions of hydro-weightlessness, which cannot happen without a bath with water.

If it is not possible to supply hot water to a private house or in country house, then in this case it would be advisable to build a summer shower.

How to build a summer shower with your own hands from wood?

To build a wooden shower in your country house with your own hands, you can follow the following instructions:

First you need to select appropriate place for the construction of a structure. When choosing, you should take into account the fact that such a country shower will be constantly exposed to moisture both inside and outside.

Advice: it is better to build such a structure in a well-ventilated area. This is necessary so that the wood dries faster. Also, you should not plant bushes, trees and tall plants near the shower, as they retain moisture, do not allow air to circulate, and, as a result, interfere with the drying of the wood from which the country shower is made.

Production earthworks. For the shower, we dig a hole measuring 1x1 m, 40 cm deep. At the bottom of the pit we lay a layer of crushed stone, which will help the soapy water to be absorbed into the soil faster. Next, you should place cinder blocks in the corners. They must be set according to level.

Next we proceed to frame manufacturing. To do this, we take boards whose thickness is 30 mm and width - 15 cm. A base measuring 1x1 m will be made from them. 4 beams with a section of 70x100 mm are attached to this base. To bandage the frame, side and two transverse jumpers are used, which are inserted into the grooves. They also serve as reinforcement for the roof, on which a hundred-liter tank will be installed.

Works on frame covering. For these purposes, you can use lining, blockhouse or false beams. The gaps between the grooves should be two to three millimeters. This is necessary so that the timber can expand freely when regularly wet. In our case, a material that imitates logs was used to cover the shower.

do-it-yourself shower for a summer residence, step-by-step instructions. Photo

Finishing work. Before painting, it is necessary to prime the wood. For these purposes, a bioprotective antifungal impregnation is suitable, after drying the surface is painted with façade acrylic water-borne varnish in at least 3 layers.

The next stage of building a shower in the country is tank installation for water.

construction of a shower in the country. Photo

Tip: for a summer shower, it is advisable to use a tank with a minimum volume of one hundred liters.

You can build such a wooden shower at your dacha with your own hands in one or two days.

building a shower in the country with your own hands. Video

DIY summer shower

For construction it is necessary to prepare the following materials:

• timber;
• fasteners (screws);
• shower kit, which includes a bracket, faucet, curved pipe, adapter and nozzle;
• rubber hose.

How to build a summer shower in your country house with your own hands?

Construction procedure:

Compilation drawings. For such a structure it will be necessary to make a wooden pallet in the shape of a circle from dense wood. We will have cardboard of the required size as a template. First you need to place the cardboard on a flat surface and secure it with tape. Next, using measuring devices, draw a circle with two squares located inside. This template will be used to construct the wooden floor.

DIY summer shower drawings

Construction pallet. Our floor will be three-layer. The procedure for installing the base for the floor is as follows:

Works on pipe installation. Combine all the elements that are in the shower set.

DIY summer shower step by step instructions. Video

DIY summer shower step by step instructions. Video instruction

Summer shower for a summer house made of pipes and polycarbonate

This option is attractive due to its low cost, resistance of materials to sunlight and moisture, as well as ease of processing.

The procedure for constructing the foundation and floor

Before you start building a polycarbonate summer shower, you need to decide on its location. For such a structure, an inconspicuous place with a flat surface, away from wells and wells, is suitable.

Site preparation. To do this, fill it with sand and compact it.

Drill or dig four holes into which the foundation posts will be inserted.

Place a layer at the bottom of the hole crushed stone 10-12 cm thick.

Install pipes made of plastic used for laying sewers. We fill them inside and outside.

DIY summer shower step by step instructions. Photo

In the central part it is necessary to dig drainage hole and fill it with crushed stone.

We also fill the area around the blind area with crushed stone.

We make from timber with a cross section of 100x150 mm base for the structure and attach it to the foundation columns. For these purposes, it is necessary to drill holes in the cement and insert plugs into them.

It is also necessary to screw the jumpers to the frame with self-tapping screws and reinforce the structure with steel corners. We lay between the pipe and the timber waterproofing.

Tip: before installing the jumpers, you need to try on the pallet, since it will subsequently be installed between them. Therefore, if necessary, it will be necessary to adjust the frame to the dimensions of the pallet.

Next, you need to display the height of the floor from the 50x50 timber around the entire perimeter and after that you can start installing flooring. The result should be a base with a built-in tray.

The procedure for constructing walls and roofs

Let's start construction wooden shower frame. At this stage it is necessary to provide a doorway. In our case, the height of the walls will be 2.5 meters.

summer shower made of polycarbonate step by step instructions. Photo

A solid one is attached to the rafters sheathing.

Making a layer waterproofing from roofing felt or bikrost.

From the sides we produce sheathing processed board.

To cover roofs We use soft tiles.

After this we process the entire wooden frame stain in two layers, and then with varnish in two or three layers. For a structure such as a summer shower made of half-carbonate, you will need about 7.5 liters of stain.

Frame cladding polycarbonate from the outside. For these purposes, it is recommended to use a special thermal washer, for which holes must be cut on polycarbonate using a cutter.

Door made in the form of a wooden frame. Its height is two meters. To add rigidity, jumpers and jibs are used. Next, the door frame is painted, hung on hinges and lined with polycarbonate.

After that they hang water heating ba k, faucets, curtains, hooks, rugs and other accessories.

At the bottom of the pan it is necessary to drain the drain into drainage pipe , inserted 20-30 cm into the crushed stone base.

At the final stage we produce improvement of the entrance in the country shower. To do this, we dig a hole, fill the foundation with concrete and lay reinforcement in it. After the concrete gains strength, we lay bricks on it, on which the wood steps will be installed. If desired, you can make decorations. For this you will need cement and stones.

We attach the steps.

Do-it-yourself shower for a summer house

The first thing you need to do before starting construction is to decide on location summer shower. A well-lit, calm, slightly elevated place is suitable for such a structure.

Advice: it is advisable that the shower is not located too close to buildings and is built in the same style as them.

Stages of building a shower in the country

Compilation project. It is planned to build a shower consisting of two small rooms. Minimum size bathing compartments should be 100x100 cm, changing rooms - 60x100 cm. In our case optimal size soul - 200x150 cm.

At the selected site mark the rectangle dimensions 140x190 cm. We drive pipes in the corners. The foundation for the shower will be piled from two-meter asbestos-cement pipes, the diameter of which is 90-100 mm. They need to be buried in dug holes to a depth of about 1.5 m. 20-30 cm should remain above the ground surface. After this, a drainage and drainage system is installed.

Summer shower project. Photo

To organize water flow, it is done waterproof layer. It can be made from polyvinyl chloride film or roofing felt, which must be laid on an inclined surface. As an option, you can make a reinforced concrete screed.

The top and bottom are made harness frame.

Installation of plank flooring.

Tip: To ensure water flows out of the shower stall, it is recommended to install floorboards with gaps of 10 mm wide.

The shower room should be separated from the changing room by a high threshold and curtain.

Finishing work. The outside of the country shower is sheathed with clapboard or siding, moisture-resistant plywood, fiberboard, etc. For interior finishing, you should also use materials that are not afraid of moisture.

A water tank must be installed on the roof; the water heater is installed indoors.

Do-it-yourself utility block with shower for your dacha

Construction procedure:

Once a suitable location for constructing a shower has been selected, you can begin excavation work: dig foundation pit, fill it with ASG and lay it out point brick foundation.

Once the foundation is ready, you can begin construction wooden frame designs. For these purposes, timber is used.

For sheathing shower on the sides and back in this project, a 10 mm thick board was used. A window and door opening should be provided at the front.

Device roof frame from wooden beam. In this project, window openings should be provided on the folding roof.

The corners should be lined with boards.

Can be used for roofing bitumen shingles.

The door is made of boards. Door handles and steps can also be cut from wood.

All wooden elements are necessary paint paint or varnish.

Arranging benches, installing a shower tray, covering walls with plastic, attaching hooks, etc.

Summer shower projects for the garden

Project No. 1

For a shower, you can also use not only a wooden frame, but also a metal one. This design can be installed directly on the ground. A curtain is used as a door in this project.

Project No. 2

The shower can be made from a corrugated metal sheet that can be bent into a semicircle. For this option there is no need to install a water heating tank. It will be enough to connect to the water supply.

Project No. 3

This summer shower made from pipes is lined with white plastic on the outside and brown on the inside. The shower stall can be erected on a paved concrete platform. For this option you will need a water heating tank.

Project No. 4

Wooden flooring can be used as a floor in such a shower. The inside of the room is lined with blue plastic. Instead of a roof, a wooden lattice is used.

Project No. 5

The base of this shower is made of metal pipes. Brown corrugated sheet was used to cover the walls. The roof is also made of corrugated sheets. Light enters the shower room through openings between the wall and the roof.

Project No. 6

Red polycarbonate was used to make this shower. For this option there is no need to install the tank on the roof. To use such a shower stall, you will need to connect it to the water supply.

Project No. 7

The frame of this shower is made of metal pipes painted blue. White plastic was used to cover the walls. A metal structure was made for the tank.

Example No. 8

Country style shower. The frame is made from dry tree trunks. Branches are used for cladding. Logs are fixed on top of the structure, on which a water tank is installed.

Project No. 9

The frame for such a shower is made of metal elements. The floor and wall cladding are varnished wood. This type of summer shower does not have a door or a water tank.