The construction of a strip foundation can be attributed to the construction monolithic design used directly for the construction of a residential home or commercial building.

You can do all the work yourself, which can save you a lot of money. family budget and send it to subsequent work.

However, before starting, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the soil on the land plot, possible climatic and atmospheric changes, the type of future structure, as well as familiarize yourself with the regulatory documentation and obtain all the agreements and permits necessary to begin work.

Regulatory documentation

When making a strip foundation for a house, you need to know how they are classified. It is carried out according to the characteristics characteristic of SNiP standards No. 2.02.01-83, 3.02.01, 3-8-76 and SN 536-81. First of all, these are differences in the design itself:

• prefabricated, consisting of reinforced concrete blocks;
• monolithic, poured in a certain area in the formwork;
• laying out the tape using brick or rubble stone.

In addition, before starting construction, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the standards governing the use of land plots in compliance with the requirements described in SanPin 2.1.7.1287-03.

If we talk about private residential and commercial construction, the second method with self-filling is predominantly used.

What will it take?

FBS blocks will allow you to install the foundation very quickly

Before making a strip foundation correctly, it is necessary to determine the technology for its installation. In this case, you will need to select and purchase the required amount of building material. This includes the following:

1. Bricks and concrete for sealing holes and connecting joints.
2. Waterproofing.
3. Thermal insulation (if desired or necessary).

Concreting or sealing holes is necessary because it is almost impossible to lay a wall located below ground level without flaws.

In addition, you will need reinforcement, with its help you need to make a tape encircling perimeter and located in the supporting part of the structure.

Its main function will be to connect and link all the individual elements into one whole.

Reinforcement will allow you to distribute the loads from a house or building over its entire area.

The foundation is poured continuously

Before pouring a strip foundation with your own hands, you need to first prepare bulk material. In this case, sand, crushed stone or gravel are suitable.

You can use a sand-gravel mixture; it can perform several functions at once: it will serve as the main component for the production of concrete and is used to install a cushion under the base.

The latter is necessary to do the following:

• level the pit for subsequent laying of slabs or pouring concrete;
• act as a drainage layer;
• prevent the harmful effects of soil heaving when negative temperatures ambient air.

Depth

Place the base of the foundation below the freezing level of the soil

During self-construction, without experience in carrying out such work, many people wonder: how to properly pour a strip foundation?

If everything is more or less clear with the technology for performing the work, then with determining the depth of the trenches and laying the foundation, the issue is much more complicated.

The main determining factor of this value is the requirement that its sole be located at least 30 - 40 cm lower than the freezing level of the soil.

The height of the strip foundation of a house depends on the territorial location of the land plot, which is directly related to the climatic characteristics of each individual region. To make this task easier, see the table below, which is designed to help you independently determine the freezing depth, according to SNiP.

City	M	µM	Loam, sand, m	Fine sand, sandy loam, m	Coarse sand, gravel, m
Arkhangelsk	46.1	6.79	1.56	1.90	2.04
Vologda	38.5	6.20	1.43	1.74	1.86
Ekaterinburg	46.3	6.80	1.57	1.91	2.04
Kazan	38.9	6.24	1.43	1.75	1.87
Kursk	21.3	4.62	1.06	1.29	1.38
Moscow	22.9	4.79	1.10	1.34	1.44

The arrangement of a shallow-type strip foundation is located at a distance of 80–100 cm from the ground level. However, one should take into account the weak load-bearing capacity and almost zero resistance to frost heaving of the soil. Thus, before designing a house structure with your own hands, it is necessary to take into account the depth of the foundation.

Foundations for one-story buildings are usually calculated by eye

As for installing the tape under a one-story building, here in most cases calculations are performed in average values, so to speak, “by eye.”

In this case, the likelihood of overuse of materials and work is reduced to a minimum.

However, if it is possible to get professional advice, it is not recommended to refuse them. In the absence of an experienced person, the following factors can be taken into account:

We should not forget about the level of groundwater. According to the standards, it should be located no closer than 20 cm from the base.

Work order

You can dig a trench without using special equipment

The step-by-step instructions for installing a strip foundation with your own hands are quite simple.

After all calculations have been completed, permits have been obtained, and the material has been purchased and delivered to land plot, you can start working.

The advantage of this construction method is that all the work can be done by yourself without the involvement of special equipment and specialists. If the soil is loose, the trench is dug with shovels, and instead of reinforced concrete slabs, a monolith can be poured, reinforcing it with metal.

Marking

Start marking by driving pegs into the corners of the future building

Before you make a strip foundation with your own hands, you need to mark the area. To do this, you will need an architectural plan of the facility under construction indicating all the walls and partitions.

According to it, the location is marked at the selected location. To facilitate subsequent work, it is advisable to clear the area in advance of construction debris, branches and tree roots.

In addition, you can remove the top layer of fertile soil no more than 20 cm thick. It can be transferred to garden plot or used for subsequent landscaping of the area around the building.

Marking is done by driving in wooden pegs placed in the corners. A construction thread is stretched between them, depicting the boundaries beyond which the base should not protrude. Having finished, it is recommended to once again carefully check the relationship between the intended site and the plan, the ratio of angles and straight lines.

If you plan to build a rectangular foundation, it would be useful to compare the length of its diagonals. If the values ​​are equal, you can begin excavation work.

When planning to install a brick stove or a real fireplace, it is recommended to prepare a separate base. It should not be rigidly tied to the tape, however, if the structure is weak, over time the structure may tilt or one of its sides may burst.

Excavation

The walls of the trench must be smooth

Digging a trench in a strip foundation is carried out strictly along the intended trajectory. It is recommended to start from the lowest point of the land plot.

It is advisable to make the walls smooth and vertical; if the soil crumbles, it may be necessary to make additional wooden or metal shields.

This will avoid unnecessary work and reduce costs. building materials.

Periodically, the depth of the planned foundation cushion is measured and compared along the entire perimeter.

Preparing the trench

The thickness of the pillow should be at least 10 - 20 cm

To distribute the load from the entire mass of the structure and reduce the pressure created by the soil during heaving in the cold season, a sand and gravel cushion is poured at the bottom of the trenches.

Its thickness is made at least 10 - 20 cm, provided that it is well compacted. It is recommended to do it in 3 stages, wetting each row with water and tamping well.

If you do not protect the cushion from washing out, there is a possibility that when the soil is filled with water in the spring, the sand will simply wash away, so roofing felt is laid on the bottom, which will not allow the cement slurry to mix with the sand when the strip foundation is poured.

Roofing material can not only be laid on the bottom, but also raised to the walls of the trench by 15 - 20 cm.

Before pouring the strip foundation, you need to take care of its maximum leveling in the horizontal plane. This will reduce the likelihood that the plinth will be laid out unevenly. Installation is carried out using various materials that are available:

• plywood;
• edged board;
• plastic;
• metal sheets.

From individual elements Cells of the required height are assembled and connected using jumpers into one whole. In some areas, holes are made necessary for ventilation of the future underground. Special pipes of the required length are inserted into them; the diameter is usually at least 10 cm. For more information about installing wooden formwork, see this video:

Concrete pouring is completed 3 - 4 cm short of the edge

Before pouring a strip foundation with your own hands, you need to take into account that this is not done to the top edge of the formwork, but 3–4 cm below it.

This will reduce the likelihood of concrete splashing during vibratory ramming.

To facilitate this procedure, you can use marks made on the inside of the boards around the entire perimeter or with stretched construction thread.

If it is necessary to build a strip foundation using thermal insulation, lumber for formwork can be replaced with extruded polystyrene foam, assembled together like a children's construction set.

Structural reinforcement

It is recommended to knit the reinforcement with wire

Building a house is quite a responsible undertaking, so it needs to be approached with the utmost care. This applies to both the acquisition of material and the order of work. All stages of construction must be completed; ignoring any of them can lead to the most disastrous consequences.

Reinforcing a strip foundation with your own hands is not that difficult, but there are numerous nuances that can significantly affect the overall result. First of all, this is the joining of rods in the corners and junctions of adjacent walls. In these areas, the metal is bent and laid along its entire length.

Secondly, the diameter of the longitudinal elements should not be less than 10, and the distribution ties and jumpers should not be less than 6 mm. For each frame you need to lay an average of 5 - 6 longitudinal rods.

At the joints, the distance between the jumpers becomes not 60 cm, as on straight sections, but 20. The connection of the rods is made with an overlap, overlapping each other by 50 - 60 cm.

Thirdly, the metal should not touch the formwork, since with the subsequent removal of the panels there will be direct interaction with the soil, which will result in the formation of pockets of corrosion and destruction of the reinforcement under the influence of moisture. For more information about reinforcement, watch this video:

The amount of reinforcing material can be determined based on the volume of concrete. The coefficient is 80 kg per 1 m3.

Fill

Have time to pour the foundation in 1 day

If all the previously described steps have been completed, the subsequent installation of the strip foundation will not cause any special problems.

Having determined the amount of the required volume (this is done by multiplying the future height by the length and width), a decision is made: use a purchased concrete mixture or make it yourself.

It should be taken into account that a factory-produced product is much higher quality than one made independently.

In this case, you also need to take into account the amount of cement and sand that will need to be mixed manually.

In the future, the following requirements must be met:

1. Filling is carried out in one day at short intervals of no more than 2 hours.
2. The walls in the strip foundation must be tapped.
3. Each poured layer is compacted and tapped using a crowbar.

When making your own mixture, you need to periodically move the mixer to different places. Filling from one point is not allowed.

Excerpt

The formwork is removed only after the foundation has reached half its strength.

You can prevent repairs to the foundation several years after it is poured by following the technology of drying and curing it. During this period, it is necessary to reduce the likelihood of mechanical or chemical exposure. In addition, concrete is very sensitive to elevated ambient temperatures and sudden changes.

It is not recommended to remove the formwork until the composition has reached more than half its strength; this may take several days. In addition, during the entire drying period it should be under a plastic film or tarpaulin, and periodically moistened with water from a garden watering can (during the hot season).

The time for complete hardening of the structure is from 1 to 1.5 months. This should be taken into account before building permanent walls on it. Failure to comply with the curing period can lead to premature failure.

Thus, the question of how to make a strip foundation with your own hands is completely covered. Based on the information presented above, doing the work yourself is not that difficult. To do this, first of all, you need to correctly make the calculations and perform all actions according to the instructions. Only in this case will the structure last for many years and will not be subject to destruction due to possible errors.

If you decide to fill a strip foundation with your own hands, you will definitely need step-by-step instruction, containing a sequence of actions and reflecting the main nuances of the work. We propose to understand the features of this type of foundation, existing varieties and algorithm. Video instructions can definitely help you understand the technological intricacies of the process.

Read in the article

The principle of constructing a strip foundation

First, let's figure out what it is. By strip foundation we mean reinforced concrete structure, mounted along the entire perimeter of the building under load-bearing partitions and used to transfer the operational load to the ground. The cross-section of such a base is predominantly rectangular, less often trapezoidal in shape. The width of the tape is the same at all points.

The installation of a strip foundation can be carried out under buildings for various purposes. The depth of installation depends on many factors, including the characteristics of the structure itself and the location of the work.

Illustration	Description of action
	Welded from reinforcement steel structure, the dimensions of which depend on the dimensions of the future foundation and the prepared trench.
	The metal frame is laid along the entire perimeter of the future foundation. Special attention are given to the angles and . The joints must be alternated. The overlap is 40-60 cm.

Attention! The thicker the reinforcement used, the stronger and more reliable the tape will be.

Pouring strip foundation

After the formwork and reinforcing belt are installed, the strip foundation can be poured:

Illustration	Description of action
	Filling the formwork is done in one go. The mixer moves around the perimeter of the formwork. The point at which the solution is supplied to the formwork should not be located higher than 2 m from the bottom of the trench.
	With the help of special vibrators buried into the thickness of the concrete, the uniformity of the formed material is ensured and air bubbles are expelled.
	Concrete is poured to the same level. The top layer is smoothed out. Its horizontalness is controlled. During concrete hardening, optimal temperature and humidity conditions should be ensured. The tape should be covered with foam or burlap to prevent premature evaporation of moisture. 12 hours after pouring, the surfaces should be moistened with water. In hot weather and strong winds - after 3-4 hours.

We invite you to watch a video that explains how to pour a strip foundation:

Base waterproofing

After the solution has completely dried and the formwork has been dismantled, the bases are made: vertical, horizontal, etc. For the first, welding and coating materials are used. The horizontal one is made wider than the tape from welded materials.

Features of the construction of hybrid strip foundation options

If the soil on the site is not stable enough, you should abandon the construction of a strip foundation. To ensure sufficient strength characteristics, it will have to be significantly deepened, which will involuntarily cause an increase in material costs. To optimize their costs, they install hybrid bases, the features of which we invite you to get acquainted with.

Pile-strip foundation

This is optimal for heaving and weak soil. Its design features allow the walls of the building to rest on a continuous shallow strip, and a strong connection to the ground is guaranteed by piles buried below the freezing depth.

Such a base can be installed on an area with any soil and relief. At the same time, its device is much cheaper than a recessed structure.

We invite you to watch a video with step-by-step manufacturing instructions. pile-tape DIY foundation:

Column and strip foundation

Detailed structures are used as foundations for heavy buildings erected in areas with deep freezing of the soil. The pillars, poured to a depth below 20 cm of soil freezing depth, bear the main operational load.

The tape is used to connect the pillars to each other. Thanks to its presence, the load is more evenly distributed between the base elements. After forming the base, a gap of 15-20 cm always remains between the concrete strip and the soil layer.

We invite you to watch a video with step-by-step instructions for making a columnar strip foundation with your own hands

How much does a strip foundation cost - price review

Prices for strip foundations directly depend on its design features and sizes. The higher and wider the tape, the more expensive it will cost to install the base with the same dimensions of the building. So, for a house 6 by 6 m, a strip foundation 30 by 60 cm will cost 107,000, and 40 by 180 cm - 305,000 rubles.

Advice! Using the calculator, you can get the estimated cost of a turnkey strip foundation.

A fairly common option in construction. It is a tape that follows the contours of the supporting building. This foundation can be divided into 2 subtypes:

For the first case, you need to dig a trench, install removable or permanent formwork, make a cushion of sand, install a mesh of reinforcement and fill the entire space with concrete. If we talk about a prefabricated foundation, then ready-made foundation blocks made of reinforced concrete (FRC), rubble stone or ceramic brick are installed in the trench.

Note! Depending on the depth, this type of foundation is divided into shallow and deep. It is important that the depth of the foundation for the house is below the freezing point of the soil and the groundwater level.

For small buildings, a shallow foundation is used, which will require less money, since this type is expensive. If the freezing point and groundwater are deep, then the trench can reach 1.5–2 m. The photo below shows what a finished strip foundation looks like.

So, what is the guide to building a strip foundation? Below are step-by-step instructions:

The area is being prepared. Everything unnecessary is removed: trees, bushes, garbage, stones, etc.

The top fertile layer of soil is removed.

Markings are made on the site based on the dimensions of the house. The width of the tape depends on the thickness of the walls with finishing + additional space on the base. Marking is done using rope and pegs. The level checks the evenness of the structure.

Based on the intended markings, a pit is dug. Its depth depends on the mass of the house, the freezing point of the soil and the level of groundwater deposits. For work, you can use shovels and any desired labor. Another option is to use special equipment.

The level and plumb line are used to check the evenness of the walls and bottom of the pit.

After the trench is dug, you can begin to install the sand cushion. It must be done in mandatory, for foundation stability. A 10–20 cm layer of sand is poured onto the bottom and compacted. The same layer of gravel or crushed stone is poured on top and also compacted. The thickness of the layer depends on the depth of the trench: the larger it is, the thicker the layer.

Prepare a small amount of concrete mortar. They will need to make a concrete base, a layer of 5 cm. Fill the bottom of the trench with the solution and wait for it to dry.

It's time to knit the reinforcing mesh for the foundation. It will ensure structural reliability, durability and fracture toughness. To do this, you will need wire to connect the reinforcing bars, and the reinforcement itself is Ø10 or Ø12 mm. Later, the finished mesh of reinforcement is installed in the foundation trench.

It's time to work on the above-ground part of the foundation for the house. Formwork is installed on top along the entire perimeter. It can be made of plywood, wooden panels, boards or other materials. The main task of foundation formwork is to form a base, support the weight of concrete and make it perfectly level. That is why the structure needs to be thoroughly strengthened with jibs and knocked down from above. So, concrete will not destroy the structure.

That's all, the preparatory work for installing the strip foundation is completed. All that's left to do is fill everything with concrete mortar. Here you have two options: either make the solution yourself, using a concrete mixer, or order a machine with a ready-made solution. How to act is up to you. The main thing is to calculate the amount of mixture and fill the trench.

It is advisable to fill the foundation with concrete at one time to avoid the formation of seams. So, it will be monolithic and more durable. Be sure to set the level on the formwork to which you want to pour the foundation. You can stretch the fishing line or mark lines on the inside of the formwork.

After pouring, the concrete must be compacted, expelling air from it. If this is not done, it will not be as dense, containing bubbles. Such a foundation cannot be called durable. Therefore, use a vibrating machine that can easily handle the task. If there is none, pierce the concrete with a long object and lightly tap the formwork to compact the composition.

All that remains is to level the foundation using a trowel. It is important to carry out this work carefully, since bricks, wood or blocks will be laid on the top of the foundation. For the walls to be level, the base must also be level.

What's next? All you have to do is wait for the concrete to dry. Usually, this takes about a month. During this time, it is recommended to cover the foundation with film so that precipitation does not wash it away. If the weather is hot, spray the foundation occasionally with water to prevent cracking. After 10 days you can remove the formwork. Do this carefully so as not to damage the foundation. That's all, now you can build your house on a strong and stable foundation. Although labor costs are quite high, the advantage of a strip foundation is the ability to build a cellar and garage.

Advice! The use of strip foundations on clay soil is not recommended. Construction on sandy loam and loamy soil is allowed.

Additionally, we invite you to watch a video about the technology of constructing a strip foundation.

DIY pile foundation step by step instructions

This is the best foundation option when it comes to building a building on particularly difficult soil. For example, if you have a heaving soil type, then this is an ideal option. In addition, the cost of construction work on the structure pile foundation several times lower. The thing is that the base is metal or concrete piles, which take the load upon themselves, distributing it over the surface of the soil. And the price for such piles is small. The photo shows how this type of foundation is constructed.

Important! This type of foundation can be used both for small buildings and for multi-story structures. With proper calculation, the foundation can withstand serious loads.

Please note that piles may vary. They define screw piles, wooden (for small agricultural buildings), reinforced concrete, metal products, as well as combined options. If we talk about the construction method, the foundation on piles can be:

Pressed, when piles are sunk into the ground using special equipment or screwed in by hand.

Drilled, when the well is prepared, a pile is installed and filled with concrete.

Driven, when installing reinforced concrete piles using copra (special equipment).

What is the advantage of such a foundation?

You can build it at any time of the year.

Excavation work is kept to a minimum.

Material and construction costs are generally minimal.

Versatile, can be used on the most difficult soil types.

All the work can be done with your own hands.

Only here, in contrast to strip base, you will not be able to make yourself a garage or cellar. And such a building will have no base.

Now let's look at the step-by-step construction instructions pile foundation for home. If you want to do all the work yourself, we recommend choosing a device with screw piles. What is needed for this:

The area is cleared of snow, branches, trees and other debris.

Markings are made on it according to the plan (the plan and design are done in advance). The places where the piles will be placed should also be noted. For convenience, dig holes of 15–30 cm each. This will make it more convenient to screw in the piles.

Now you can start arranging the piles. Install them into place, screwing them slightly into the ground, but not completely. The distance is selected according to the plan. The same goes for depth.

Now you can begin to screw the pile into the ground in a circular pattern. Do this strictly perpendicular so that everything is level. If you initially screw in the pile correctly, it will be level. A deviation of 1–2 degrees is allowed. In one lap you can move 15–30 cm.

Now all piles are leveled to the horizon and concreted from the inside.

When all the piles are installed and the concrete has hardened, tying can be done. Caps are installed on the piles, and a wooden or metal grillage is installed on top. Be sure to place waterproofing material under the pile caps.

To see everything clearly, we suggest you watch this video.

Conclusion

As you can see, the work is not entirely complicated, so you can make a high-quality foundation for a house with your own hands. Choose the base yourself, depending on your needs and type of soil. If everything is done correctly, the foundation for your house will serve you for many years, without repairs or additional work.

There are many types of foundations for the construction of wooden structures, small houses or massive buildings. The most popular in construction in the private sector is a strip foundation. Because this is the most affordable way building the foundation of a house that you can do yourself. In addition, this option allows you to include a basement or ground floor.

Due to its versatility, such a foundation can be used: for a home, for a bathhouse, under a garage or under a porch. In the article we will talk about the advantages and disadvantages of a strip foundation, consider what types there are, and tell you with the help of short instructions how to build it yourself.

Features of strip foundation

It is worth noting that LF is not suitable for swampy areas and requires mandatory waterproofing and thermal insulation work, which we will discuss below. Depending on the project, ground and soil, heavy construction equipment and complex construction may be required. earthworks. In any case, these factors will depend on the depth of the foundation.

Filling the strip foundation

Despite this, several arguments can be identified in favor of this type of foundation:

• you can make the foundation yourself;
• high strength and reliability;
• you can add a basement or ground floor to the project;
• high load-bearing capacity;
• possible installation on unstable soils;

There are 3 types of strip foundations, which differ in the depth of the structure:

Based on the name, one can conclude that for multi-storey building a recessed belt that can withstand heavy loads should be used. And the first two are suitable for light buildings (small brick or wooden house For example).

They also highlight solid cast And made strip foundation. With the prefabricated method, ready-made concrete slabs are used, from which a strip is built and fastened with cement.

With the solid-cast method, the foundation for the foundation is constructed directly at the construction site, after which concrete is poured. This method is also called monolithic. It is worth noting that to perform independent work, it is preferable to use a monolithic version, since it does not require complex lifting equipment. We have prepared instructions for this method for you.

Comparative table of foundation types

Monolithic slab	Strip foundation	Screw piles
Construction period 1 week.	Construction period 1 week.	The construction period is several days.
Construction is allowed a month after pouring.	Construction is allowed after 20 days from pouring.	Due to its loosening when screwing the pile, the foundation requires soil shrinkage.
The permissible load on the foundation is 3 tons per sq.m.	The permissible load on the foundation is 17 tons per sq.m.	The permissible load on one pile is no more than 3 tons.
Service life more than a century.	Service life more than a century.	Service life is about 35 years.
	When building on a slope, a combination with screw piles is needed.	The soil and soil must meet the requirements for installation.
It is impossible to include an underground room in the project.	You can make a basement or ground floor. But waterproofing work is required.	—
Construction of the foundation will cost 250-350 rubles. with an area of ​​9x9 m.	Construction of the foundation will cost 200 rubles. with an area of ​​9x9 m.	Construction of the foundation will cost 150-180 tr. with an area of ​​9x9 m.

DIY strip foundation step by step instructions:

The service life of the structure will depend on the quality and strength of the foundation. Therefore, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with all the nuances and requirements for technological process construction of a strip foundation.

Preparatory work

Before any construction begins, preparatory work takes place. Which include designing a structure, applying markings, as well as conducting geological surveys.

Geological surveys must be ordered from a specialized company. Which will accurately determine the structure of the soil, the depth of soil freezing and the passage of deep water.

Based on these data, it will be possible to determine the elevation and thickness of the tape. When the geological research is completed, you can proceed to the next stage.

Before applying markings, you need to remove the top layer of earth where the future building will be. Usually this is a layer of up to 0.5 meters (where there will no longer be plant roots). Then, along the perimeter of the tape, markings are made using a cord or wire, which can be fixed with reinforcement or a peg. It is better to install the stakes a little further than the axes of the walls, so that our markings do not interfere or sag during further excavation work. Marking allows you to adjust the height level throughout the entire area of ​​construction work. This way you can do everything exactly to the level.

When you have made the markings, the digging of trenches for the foundation begins, according to the markings made according to the project and the depth of the structure. If you have a basement, then a pit is also being dug. This is the most labor-intensive process. You will need to dig trenches manually at a uniform level from 1 meter to 1.5 meters.

Only geological survey soil, can give an accurate answer whether underground drainage is necessary or not. Therefore, drainage may not be a requirement. quality foundation, sometimes you can do without it.

To arrange drainage, it is necessary to deepen the base of the tape by 25-35 cm. Create a general slope of the system in one direction by 4 degrees. After which they put drainage pipes to remove moisture. This allows you to keep the soil of the house structure dry. The drainage is filled with sand and gravel to the level of the bottom of the trench. After which a pillow is made for the foundation.

The sand base will allow you to redistribute the loads on the future foundation. To make the right pillow, you need to level the bottom of the trench with sand and gravel. Pour the sealant over the drainage layer by layer, 10-15 centimeters at a time. The height of the sand cushion should be up to 50 cm.

When filling the bottom with sand and fine gravel, try to immediately compact the non-metallic material by pouring water on it. The cushion and drainage will ensure a long service life of the foundation and prevent its destruction.

To prevent the destruction of the walls and the loss of the entire fortress concrete structure, it is necessary to strengthen it by applying reinforcing mesh. Therefore, before pouring the formwork with concrete, a strong and reliable frame is made from steel rods, which strengthens the base of the building. A short instruction will help you correctly reinforce a strip foundation:

• Every 15-20 cm, iron rods are inserted vertically (the height is up to the marking of the foundation line, not higher);
• after which the long reinforcement is carried horizontally and fastened with a dressing wire (it is also possible by welding, but the wire is more reliable in our case);
• after all the work, you should have a frame with 15-25 centimeter cells around the entire perimeter of the formwork;

Formwork is a wooden structure that is used as a form for the future foundation. You can make it from boards. The formwork for a strip foundation must withstand the huge mass of concrete poured into it. Therefore, it must be made strong immediately. If during the process of pouring cement, the formwork begins to collapse, then you will have to stop work and start collecting the formwork again.

The formwork walls should be made higher than the level of the future foundation. This will prevent the solution from overflowing. To regulate the fill level mark, additional markings are pulled along which you will need to navigate.

Don’t forget to put plastic inserts in the formwork for communications and to have ventilation.

After all the preparatory work, it is necessary to fill our formwork with concrete. The mixture can be made independently from cement, sand and crushed stone, with proportions of 1: 3: 3. This option is the most budget-friendly, but requires a lot of physical exertion to mix the solution and pour it. The mixture should be thick and homogeneous. After pouring, the solution must be compacted and ensure that no bubbles form. This can be done by piercing the poured solution with a piece of reinforcement.

It is recommended to pour a shallow and shallow strip foundation immediately. And the buried one is poured in several stages. You need to pour no more than 70 cm of concrete at a time, with breaks of no more than two hours. After 12 hours, you can continue pouring the cement mortar.

A pile-strip foundation takes about 1 week to dry in summer. Dismantling of the formwork should be carried out when the solution has hardened by 60%, but at least 3 days.

In addition to monolithic filling, you can order a ready-made solution. This method is more expensive, but this way you will be able to pour the formwork efficiently and quickly. It is best to order the M300 solution.

A more expensive method of formwork construction is the use of block technologies. Ready foundation blocks lined up in a ribbon, without the need to make formwork and wait about a month for the solution to harden. But initially, for the blocks, you need to make wider trenches.

4 days after pouring the foundation, it is necessary to make a blind area away from the walls to drain rainwater. At any time of the year, it is important to care for the foundation and prevent the loss of water from the surface of the structure after installation. To do this, the concrete is covered with a film and watered with water for a week. These methods will prevent damage to the walls of your foundation.

In the summer, various chemical additives can be used to slow down the process of hydration and heat generation. In winter, it is necessary to prevent the freezing process, because when the level is below 0, all the water freezes and destroys the structure from the inside.

Conclusion

This type of foundation can easily support a house or several-story cottage. In order for the structure to last as long as possible and the foundation not to crumble, you need to follow certain rules during construction, which we described above. To save money, you can build a strip foundation yourself monolithic filling or using ready-made blocks. The only difference is the time and the need to make formwork.

Video instruction

Building a house from scratch yourself is a difficult task, but it can be done. Careful calculations, competent selection of building materials and high-quality execution of each process will help you cope without the involvement of specialists. The most critical stage is laying the foundation, because the durability and reliability of any building depends on the strength of the foundation. It will take about 2-3 months to make the foundation for a house with your own hands.

For the construction of residential buildings, strip foundations are most often used. It can be shallow if the house is one-story and of small area, or standard - laid at a depth of 1.8-2 m. The width of the base tape is usually 40 cm, but can be increased depending on the specific load of the building. When designing a house, you should immediately take into account possible extensions and arrangement of basements and semi-basements. The presence of a common base will significantly simplify the installation of a veranda or other structures that may be needed later.

In order not to make a mistake with the parameters of the base, you need to carefully calculate the total load on square meter soil and compare it with acceptable values.

When calculating the load, the following factors are taken into account:

Calculations are made using special tables, for each factor separately. After this, all loads are summed up, which determines the depth of the foundation in this area and the permissible width of the base.

Marking the base

To mark the area for the foundation you will need pegs, a strong thin rope and a tape measure. First, remove everything that could interfere with the marking - stones, bushes, dry stumps, etc. Determine the line of the facade of the house relative to the site and mark it with a rope stretched between the pegs. The distance from one beacon to another should be 30-40 cm greater than the width of the facade. Mark the location of the corners of the house on a rope, and draw 2 perpendicular lines through these points, slightly longer than the length of the side walls.

Now measure the distance from the corner of the facade to the corner of the back wall and mark points on both lines, and then pull another rope parallel to the first. The intersections of the ropes form the corners of the building, and it is from these points that the diagonals of the resulting rectangle need to be measured. If the diagonals are equal, the marking is done correctly. After this, the internal boundaries of the foundation strip are marked, departing from the marking lines 40 cm inside the perimeter. The pegs should be located outside the perimeter - this will allow you to more accurately indicate the corners of the base. The last ones to mark are the internal load-bearing walls, the base for the veranda or porch.

When the markings are ready, they begin to dig trenches for the foundation. This can be done with shovels or using special equipment, which will be much faster and more convenient. For a shallow foundation, the depth of the trenches is 60-70 cm, for a conventional foundation - from 1.8 m, depending on the level of soil freezing. The bottom of the trench should be at least 20 cm below this level. The depth is measured from the lowest marking point.

The walls of the trenches must be leveled vertically; if the soil crumbles, supports are installed. After excavating the soil, be sure to check the bottom relative to the horizontal, cut off any irregularities with a shovel, and remove excess soil. The location and width of the trenches must fully comply with the design. The next stage is the installation of a sand and gravel cushion, designed to reduce the load from the building on the base of the soil.

The arrangement of the sand and gravel layer has the following order:

• the bottom of the trenches along the perimeter is covered with a thin layer of river coarse sand;
• spill the sand with water and compact it thoroughly;
• pour another layer of sand and compact it again;
• pour fine gravel and level it with a layer of 15 cm;
• compact the surface.

For shallow foundations, the inner surface of the trenches is lined with geotextiles before filling with sand. This material protects the sand cushion from erosion groundwater and siltation.

Installation of formwork

The foundation of a residential building must rise above the ground surface by at least 15 cm. In flooded areas, the height of the above-ground part of the foundation can reach 50-70 cm. The formwork is assembled taking into account the required height, using available materials. Installation of foundation formwork

When installing the formwork you will need:

The boards are fastened into rectangular panels, secured with transverse bars on the outside. Self-tapping screws are screwed in from the inside to make dismantling the formwork more convenient. For the same reason, it is recommended to use screws rather than nails. When assembling, you should consider the location of the sewer holes and make cuts of the appropriate diameter in the boards. Finally, the boards are covered with a film that will not allow the wood to absorb water from the solution.

The formwork is installed in parts on both sides of the trenches, and then reinforced with transverse bars every half meter. The boards are placed strictly vertically, maintaining the same distance between opposite sides along the entire length of the perimeter. From the outside, the formwork is supported by spacers made of timber. There should be no gaps between the bottom edge of the shields and the top edge of the trenches, otherwise the solution will leak out.

The presence of a reinforcing frame in the thickness of the foundation allows you to strengthen the foundation and extend its service life several times. For the manufacture of the frame, steel reinforcement with a cross section of 10-16 mm is usually used. It is very important to tie the rods correctly in order to distribute the load evenly over the entire area.

To work you will additionally need:

• knitting wire;
• building level;
• Bulgarian;
• plastic pipe scraps;
• roulette.

The reinforcement is cut with a grinder to the length and width of the trenches, after which a lattice with cells from 30 cm is knitted from it. To do this, 4-5 longitudinal rods are fastened with transverse sections every 30 cm.

It is strictly not recommended to use welding for connections, since it weakens the fastening points and promotes corrosion of the rods. The frame must be voluminous, so horizontal gratings are placed on 3-4 levels, tied with vertical rods.

Additional fastenings should be made at each corner of the foundation and at the intersections of load-bearing internal walls. You can lower the frame into the trenches in parts, and already connect them together inside. To avoid corrosion as much as possible, the reinforcement cannot be laid directly on the sand: take an old plastic pipe, cut it into rings 4-5 cm wide and place it under the grate in the corners and every 50-60 cm along the trenches. Approximately 5 cm should be left between the side walls and the edges of the frame, the same applies to the upper edge of the reinforcement.

When the grid is fixed inside the formwork, the level of concrete pouring is indicated on the inside of the panels. You can do this using fishing line: small nails are stuffed at the ends of the formwork and a fishing line stretched strictly horizontally is secured to them. It should be located 5 cm above the edges of the reinforcement grid and run along the entire perimeter at the same horizontal level.

It is recommended to pour the solution at a time, but not with the total mass, but in layers. Each layer should be no thicker than 20 cm; this will allow it to be evenly distributed between the reinforcement cells and reduce the number of air voids. To make the mixture, use cement M400 or M500, fine crushed stone and coarse river sand.

It is very important to correctly observe the proportions when mixing, otherwise the quality of the solution will be below normal. For 1 bucket of cement, 3 buckets of sifted sand and 5 buckets of crushed stone are required. You need to take about half of the total volume of water, add it in portions so as not to overdo it. The solution should not be too liquid or too thick: high-quality concrete has a uniform consistency, and when the shovel is turned over, it slowly slides down as a whole.

After pouring the first portion, the solution is leveled with a shovel and pierced along the entire length of the trenches with a piece of reinforcement to release the air that has accumulated in the solution during mixing. It is very effective to compact concrete with a vibrator; it increases the strength of the monolith several times. The remaining layers are poured in the same way until the surface of the concrete is level with the stretched line. The formwork is tapped with a hammer, after which the top of the mortar is leveled with a rule or trowel.

It takes about a month to strengthen the foundation. To prevent the surface from cracking, it is constantly moistened and covered with polyethylene from rain. In hot weather, concrete should also be protected from direct sunlight to avoid cracking. The formwork can be dismantled 10-15 days after pouring, and continue construction works in 28-30 days.

Video - Do-it-yourself foundation for a house