Is it possible to argue with the fact that contemplation of the surface of the water brings a person to tenderness, gives the opportunity to restore strength and mental balance, and allows one to escape from problems for a while. Not everyone has the opportunity to go out into nature often, but it is quite possible to provide yourself and your family with a good rest if you build a pond on summer cottage. The construction of even a small artificial reservoir will make the design of the site much more attractive. You should not be afraid that the construction of a complex hydraulic facility will not be possible - armed with some knowledge in the field of construction, carry out all stages of design and construction with your own hands. construction work It won't be that difficult.

How to Choose a Pond Style

The first issue that will need to be resolved before starting construction is choosing the style of the reservoir. The pond on the site must match the style country house and garden, to support the landscape concept of the entire site. Depending on your preferences, the pond can be decorated:

in the Chinese style - with an intricate coastline, with the obligatory bridge and a stone lantern, a “dream” island with a lonely tree or a beautiful stone located on it;

in Japanese - characterized by minimalism, surrounded by dwarf trees, having an extremely simple rectangular shape, decorated with a composition of stones;

in a landscape style - naturally fitting into the surrounding nature, surrounded by vegetation, possibly a composition of boulders and a path paved with flat stones;

in the style of a regular garden - with distinct geometric shapes, without being surrounded by lush vegetation;

in the avant-garde style - with clear straight coastlines, without excessive vegetation, allowing proximity to unusually shaped structures made of glass, plastic or metal;

in the landscape style, the most picturesque, allowing you to design a free-form reservoir with stones and vegetation growing in the area or exotic, with a bridge and paved paths around it;

in a formal style with a rectangular outline of the shore or a round one, emphasizing the beauty of the lines of the house located not far from it, with paths made of terrace boards and a bridge made of the same material;

in the cascade version, the most complex in construction, but very picturesque, creating a special atmosphere of comfort in the garden with the soft murmur of water.

Building a pond with your own hands - how to choose a place to build a pond and determine its optimal size, materials

In order to minimize the problems that arise during operation and ensure its maximum lifespan, you will need to choose a location for the reservoir, taking into account the recommendations of experts.

choosing a place for a pond

It must be taken into account that in a reservoir illuminated throughout the day, green algae develop much more actively, which leads to “water blooming”. Consequently, shadow must fall on the area chosen for placement, at least for several hours a day. It would also be wrong to place a pond in a shaded area of ​​the garden - the ornamental plants planted near it will suffer from the lack of light.

A good option would be to locate the reservoir close to a recreation area with a gazebo, barbecue or barbecue oven - vacationers will always have the opportunity to admire the amazing beauty of the water surface. It is advisable that the southwestern side of the reservoir be open to sunlight for about 5 hours. Large shady trees located near a pond will pollute the water with falling leaves and twigs.

reservoir dimensions

When building a pond with your own hands on the site, you should know that it optimal size may be about 3% of total area. But if the plot is small, 6 acres, then even 18 square meters. m may turn out to be an unaffordable luxury.

At the same time, creating a small reservoir on your own is much easier; less physical effort will be required, and the cost of materials will be reduced. For this reason, the main criteria for deciding the size of the pond can be considered:

your financial capabilities,

the performance of the creators of the future reservoir,

organic combination of the dimensions of the pond with other structures on the site,

compliance of the reservoir with the design style of the site.

The depth of the pond is designed depending on the functions that will be assigned to it; the pond should have a depth of three degrees:

• the first - for planting coastal plants
• the second - for shallow water plants such as water lilies,
• third - ensuring safe wintering of fish.

You should not achieve a very large depth of the pond - it will be enough to simply equip about a fifth of its area with a depression of about one and a half meters (this is slightly lower than the depth of soil freezing in winter), this is where the fish will spend the winter.

what materials to use

Use cases building materials there can be many, their choice mainly depends on financial opportunities owners of the site. If we talk about a low-budget and pre-fabricated structure, we can mention the option of using a ready-made plastic container, but if a capital structure is planned, then the best option would be to build a pond with a concrete base. It is the most expensive in terms of money and time; in addition to digging a pit, you will need to construct formwork, reinforce it and fill it with concrete.

In practice, polyethylene film is often used to waterproof a reservoir.

artificial pond on site - construction plan

Installing a pond on the site will require the use of special equipment, first of all, a pump for pumping and filtering water. If you plan to build a budget pond, then a rational option for waterproofing would be to use moisture-resistant film. It is this method of constructing a reservoir that will be considered in this article.

Construction of a reservoir, its main stages

draw up a drawing of the object

First, we draw up a plan diagram, on it we indicate the depth of each of the curtains and their dimensions. You will also need to draw up an approximate diagram according to which the decoration of the reservoir will be carried out. The more carefully the design is carried out, the fewer errors and misunderstandings will arise during the work process.

It will also require thinking about how to improve the pond on the site - at this stage we determine which of the components of the water composition can be emphasized - perhaps it will be some unusual plants, stone or sculpture.

we do local planning

When designing, do not forget to provide sufficient space on the ledges for planting plants. You should also provide a place to place each of the functional elements of the reservoir arrangement.

You can mark the outlines of the boundaries of the pond on the ground using ordinary sand, rope or a long watering hose. Next, contours are drawn along them with a solid line. Be sure to make sure that the banks of the reservoir are at the same level. For measurements, you can use either a water level of the required length, or a regular half-meter level, placing it on a long board connecting the opposite banks.

digging a pit

In accordance with the marked lines, a pit is dug. Having dug a hole to the depth of the first tier, mark the boundaries of the curtains and only then continue to dig a hole to the next mark. Having reached the level of the second tier, they mark the area that will be occupied by the deepest part of the reservoir and dig a hole in the pit.

Considering that digging a large pond will require considerable physical effort and time, it may be a rational decision to hire professional diggers or rent a mini-excavator.

If the site is located in a low-lying or swampy area, then you should prepare for a situation when liquid begins to accumulate at the bottom of the hole. In this case, you will need to use a special pump to pump water containing solid and suspended impurities. The pumped out water can be drained into a trench dug nearby.

After completing the digging of the pit, by taking measurements, determine its surface area and find out the dimensions of the waterproofing film. Don’t forget to add about half a meter of material to the edges of the film for allowances.

When digging a pit, a lot of excess soil is formed - you can use it to your advantage. For example, to build the base of an alpine slide or a decorative slide to create a stream flowing into a pond.

When purchasing a film, you should purchase the same amount of geotextile - laying it under the film will prevent possible damage to the polyethylene by plant roots. To save money, you can use used linoleum or roofing felt instead of geotextiles. Sometimes sand is poured into the hole and compacted.

how to lay film correctly

The construction of ponds in the garden always requires waterproofing work, which should be approached with care. After laying a layer of geotextile (linoleum, sand) in the pit, carefully lay the film. A shallow trench is dug along the perimeter of the reservoir and excess film is placed in it so that it holds well, and covered with crushed stone. It will be better to install a heated film, so it is advisable to choose a hot summer day for work. The softened film will smoothly bend around each ledge in the pit.

The edge of the pond can be strengthened with beautifully laid natural stones, decorated with an unusually shaped boulder or a composition of several stone fragments.

Plants prepared in advance are placed in plastic containers and arranged on tiers intended for them. The bottom of the pond is lined with crushed stones or stones.

After completing the preparatory work, you can fill the pond with water.

In this case, it will not be superfluous to take meter readings and remember how much water is required - in the future, this will help you choose the right pumping equipment for pumping water and the volumes of chemical reagents that are used to treat the liquid in the pond during operation.

Construction of a stream

Creating a stream flowing into the pond will help rid the pond of the problem of stagnant water. the source of the stream must be higher than the water level in the reservoir, for example, on a hill built from excess soil. The water supply will be organized using a submersible pump. You should think carefully about masking all components of the water supply system; the mouth of the stream can be decorated with beautiful stones, pebbles, and handmade clay containers. A submersible pump is installed at the bottom of the reservoir, a pipe system is extended from it to the source of the stream, and a pressure cleaning filter must be installed in the system; it works more efficiently than a flow-through one.

The pond is ready for use. Next, it will require periodic maintenance: preventive water treatment, cleaning the water from debris, monitoring the proliferation of algae. For the winter, plants grown in containers are removed from the water and taken to the basement.

Features of a fish pond

To ensure the normal maintenance of fish in the pond and to be able to engage in fishing, it will be necessary to determine the type of fish suitable for breeding in the cramped conditions of a small reservoir. The most unpretentious to the conditions of keeping are crucian carp and carp; in an artificial reservoir, raising two dozen fish will require only 1 cubic meter of water.

The optimal dimensions of a private reservoir are a depth of about 1.5 m with an area of ​​25 square meters. The advantage of such a reservoir is the rapid heating of the water to 24-25 degrees - the optimal temperature for the life of fish of the carp family. At a temperature ten degrees lower, the fish's appetite worsens, and there is a decline in their growth activity. It is also dangerous to overheat water to a temperature higher than 30 degrees.

If the owners want to breed crayfish in the pond, then they will need to place old ceramic containers or the remains of pipes on the bottom - the crayfish will need such shelter during the molting period.

What water to use to fill the reservoir

Experts say that any water, including tap water, can be used to fill the pond. But after filling the pond, you should not immediately release fish into it - it is better to wait until the water warms up and microorganisms multiply in it, i.e. she will become "alive". To speed up the process, you can add at least a few buckets of water from an inhabited reservoir to well or tap water, or simply throw clean mowed grass on the bottom.

To improve the banks of the reservoir in which fish will be bred, reeds and willows are planted.

The microclimate in the reservoir must comply with the standard

Since living creatures will populate the pond, care will need to be taken to create the proper microclimate. The desired environment for breeding fish should have neutral acidity, about 7-8 pH. If the acidity is below normal, add a calculated amount of soda solution or a portion of limestone to the water. Acidity samples should be taken in different parts of the reservoir and at different depths. If the use of additives will only produce temporary changes, then you will have to look for the reason causing the change in acidity.

Before releasing fish into a reservoir, it is necessary to balance the temperature in the tank for transporting fish and in the pond - otherwise the fish may develop temperature shock, in some cases it causes mass death of fish within a day.

What mistakes should you avoid when building a garden pond?

We looked at how to dig a pond on a site; the following recommendations will help you avoid the most common mistakes when performing work:

1. You should not use stones of the same shape and size to decorate a pond - such a solution will reduce the decorative effect of the pond and give it a boring look.
2. The pond should not be made very deep; a reasonable depth, even in the case of fish farming, is within 2 m.
3. You should not be afraid that the soil for growing plants will pollute the water; such soil contains a high percentage of clay, which prevents it from being washed away by water. In addition, actively developing plant roots will help strengthen the soil. However, the container gardening option has its advantages - it makes it possible to quickly regroup the plants and thereby transform the appearance of the reservoir. But the container method of keeping plants has a negative impact on their development and inhibits growth.

It is quite easy to arrange drainage around your site to remove excess moisture. It is important to choose the optimal format according to which the drainage ditch along the fence will be prepared, and to determine the required set of materials and tools.

Problems to be solved:

• In areas with high rainfall, soil erosion is a problem;
• At high pass groundwater the soil on the site is waterlogged;
• With the natural slope of the site, all the water accumulates in the lower part and “pulls” the entire fertile layer of soil with it;
• In hilly and mountainous areas, depending on the season, a huge volume of water falls on the site from the area higher up the slope;
• Atmospheric precipitation from the road surface accumulates under the fence along the perimeter of the site and can wash away the base and supports of the fence.

In all of the above situations, the optimal solution is to install drainage ditches or a productive hidden drainage system around the perimeter of the site.

The main task of the drainage ditch is to collect surface precipitation and remove it from the site.

However, it is not used to transport excess water, it is rather a localized drainage field where excess water accumulates and is gradually absorbed into the soil, without causing negative consequences for buildings and the fertile soil layer of the site.

Kinds

There are three types of drainage:

• open;
• closed, laying perforated pipes with backfill;
• backfill, the ditch is filled with coarse gravel and filter fills for rapid drainage of water.

To arrange drainage under the fence around the site from the outside, the easiest way is to use open drainage ditches with reinforced slopes and a stable slope, so that all excess water from the site and adjacent areas, including the road surface, quickly goes to the depth of groundwater or is transported to the drainage field, drainage well.

Among the main advantages:

• small amount of land work;
• minimum materials;
• a wide range of slope strengthening options;
• a simple way to maintain, clean and prevent drainage.

Requirements. Distance from fence

For any drainage systems aimed at reclamation of a private plot, the standards are SP 104-34-96 and SNiP 2.05.07-85. The optimal slopes for organizing a drainage ditch, the distance to the fence and other structures, as well as design options depending on the required throughput and characteristics of the drained area, such as the general slope, soil type, etc., are discussed.

For a flat area or with a slight slope of up to five degrees to the horizon, the additional slope along the bottom of the ditch should be 3-5 ‰ (ppm), which corresponds to a difference in height of 3-5 cm for every 10 m.

In fact, the quality of the slope and its uniformity are determined on site during the preparation of the trench. It is difficult to ensure the shape of the trench with high accuracy, so you will have to adjust its geometry during the operation of the drainage.

It is important that the drainage ditch is located at a distance from fence posts and supporting structures so as not to erode their base. It is enough to move the upper border from the plane of the fence by 30-50 cm, and when arranging reinforcement of the walls, compact the soil so that water does not wash under the fence.

Methods for strengthening walls

The drainage ditch only partially acts as a transport system; the water entering it must be effectively absorbed into the soil along the entire length of the ditch bottom. It is not advisable to use concrete sections or otherwise reinforce the bottom.

It is permissible to use a rigid waterproof base only if there are underground communications running underneath it, which should be protected from the effects of precipitation and groundwater.

Effective ways to strengthen slopes:

During excavation work and preparation of the base of the ditch, an extended pit is dug approximately twice as wide as necessary. A cushion of coarse sand or gravel is poured along the bottom.

The slopes are compacted manually or mechanically and covered with the material selected for reinforcement. Next, a layer of soil is poured in the same way with tamping and compaction, only at a lesser intensity.

Calculation

In order for the drainage ditch to cope with the task, several important rules must be followed:

• The depth of the ditch along its entire length must be greater than the depth of the foundation nearby buildings by 300-500 mm;
• The slope along its entire length, taking into account turns or a detour along the perimeter of the site, is directed to one point or along the lower border of the site;
• The slope is determined by the composition of the soil and the calculated throughput and ranges from 1 to 5 cm for every 10 meters of length.

If there is a drainage well located at a distance from the contour of the drainage ditch, you should take the extreme point of the drainage system located away from the well and calculate the depth, and then calculate the control points located along the route, which will be used to determine the correct geometry of the ditch.

With your own hands

It’s quite easy to build a ditch with your own hands, even if you do most of the digging work by hand. However, the difficulty will be caused by the presence of a large volume of selected soil along the length of the ditch.

It can be used to arrange a front garden around the perimeter of the site so that it is raised above the general ground level.

The easiest way is to use the option of reinforcing the slopes with biomats, geomats, mesh or geotexile. In this case, there is no need to excessively compact the soil under the base; you can limit yourself to a small volume of loose drainage, sand or gravel, which will significantly reduce the load on the contractor.

Price

A drainage ditch can be organized efficiently, quickly and aesthetically using heavy rafter equipment.

A minimum amount of excavator will be required, which will dig the base for a ditch in a matter of hours and at the same time it will be easier to adjust the shape and geometry of the slopes, and the depth of the base.

The executing company will prepare a work project and estimate in advance so as not to guess about the actual cost of the work and count on a guaranteed result.

The main burden on the budget of this event may come from the preparation of a drainage well, if it is necessary, the rest of the work is much cheaper.

The problem of flooding and increased soil moisture is familiar to owners of plots located in the central region of Russia. Dampness and stagnation of water after snow melts do not allow proper preparation of the summer cottage for the summer season, and waterlogging of the soil with constant precipitation is detrimental to many plants. There are several ways to solve these problems, but the most effective is the arrangement of drainage.

In what cases is a drainage system necessary?

Drainage is a technology for collecting and discharging groundwater, melt and storm water from a site, technical and residential buildings. The drainage system prevents leaching, heaving and waterlogging of the soil, which occurs due to oversaturation with moisture.

Arrangement of a drainage system is not necessary at every site. In order to determine how much your area needs drainage, you will need to conduct a visual inspection. Pay attention to whether the area is flooded after the snow melts, how quickly water is absorbed after watering the plants, whether there are puddles after heavy rain and downpour. If you have observed these signs more than once, then drainage is required.

The drainage system helps remove stagnant water from the site

If visual confirmation is not enough, then you can conduct a simple experiment - using a hand drill or an ordinary shovel, you should dig a hole 70–100 cm deep. It is better to do this in several places on the site. If after 24–36 hours water accumulates at the bottom of the hole and does not leave, then this is direct evidence of oversaturation of the soil with moisture.

Soil drainage is carried out under the following conditions:

• high groundwater table;
• the site is located in an area with clay soil;
• the site is located in a lowland or vice versa - on a slope;
• falls out at the location of the site a large number of precipitation.

The presence of drainage helps preserve the finishing and facing materials used for laying garden paths, finishing the basement and façade of the building.

Types of dehumidification systems

Dehumidification systems land plots there is a great variety. Moreover, in different sources their classification may differ greatly from each other. In the case of drainage systems for suburban and summer cottages, it is recommended to use the simplest and most proven solutions.

Surface type drainage

Surface drainage is the simplest and most effective system. The main task is to drain the soil by draining water formed as a result of rainfall and uneven melting of snow.

Grids protect the open drainage system from large debris

A surface drainage system is constructed across the area of ​​the site, around the house and adjacent buildings, near garage structures, warehouses and the courtyard. Surface drainage is divided into two subtypes:

1. Point - in some sources referred to as local drainage. Used to collect and drain water from a certain place on the site. The main area of ​​application is drainage of areas under drains, near entrance doors and gates, in the area where containers and watering taps are located. Often used as emergency system, if another type of drainage is overloaded.
2. Linear - used to drain the entire area. It is a system consisting of receiving trays and channels arranged at a certain angle, ensuring a constant flow of water. The drainage system is equipped with filter grids and sand traps. Trays and drains are made of PVC, polypropylene, HDPE or polymer concrete.

When installing a surface drainage system, it is recommended to combine point and linear drainage. This will provide the most effective work systems. If necessary, point and linear drainage can be combined with the system described below.

Deep drainage

Deep drainage is carried out in the form of a pipeline laid in places where constant drainage of the soil or lowering of the groundwater level is necessary. Drains are laid with a slope in the direction of water flow, which enters a collector, well or reservoir located outside the site.

The process of constructing deep drainage in a suburban area

To lower the groundwater level, pipes are laid along the perimeter of the site to a depth of 80–150 cm. In cases where it is necessary to drain water from the foundation of a building, pipes must be laid below its depth. And also drainage pipes can be laid over the entire area of ​​the site with a certain pitch. The distance between drains depends on the depth of their placement and the mechanical composition of the soil.

For example, when installing a drainage system, when drains are laid to a depth of 0.9–1 m, the recommended distance between them is at least 9–11 m. loamy soil under the same conditions, the step between drains is reduced to 7–9 m, and on clay drains to 4–5.5 m. More detailed data for different laying depths can be seen in the table below. Information taken from the book “Draining land for gardens” by A.M. Dumblyauskas.

Depth of drains, m	Distance between drains, m
	Sandy soil	Loamy soil	Clay soil
0,45	4,5–5,5	4–5	2–3
0,6	6,5–7,5	5–6,5	3–4
0,9	9–11	7–9	4–5,5
1,2	12–15	10–12	4,5–7
1,5	15,5–18	12–15	6,5–9
1,8	18–22	15–18	7–11

When laying the pipe, the features of the terrain are observed. According to the technology, drains are laid from the highest to the lowest point on the site. If the area is relatively flat, then to impart a slope, a slope is formed along the bottom of the trench. The minimum slope level is 2 cm per 1 running meter of drainage pipe when constructing drainage in clay and loamy soil. For sandy soil, a slope of 3 cm per 1 meter is maintained.

When installing long drainage, a minimum slope along the entire length of the drainage route must be observed. For example, for a drainage system 15 m long, the minimum level difference between the starting and ending points of the route will be at least 30 cm.

If possible, it is recommended to exceed the stated slope standards. This will ensure faster drainage and reduce the risk of silting and clogging of the drain. In addition, digging a trench with a large slope is much easier than measuring 1–2 cm.

Drainage in a summer cottage - the simplest methods with instructions

In order to independently drain a plot of land using a drainage system, you will need to familiarize yourself with the technology of work, calculate and purchase the necessary materials, prepare tools and a place to perform the work.

Surface drainage of a summer cottage

Open surface drainage is a universal solution for draining summer cottages without large area. For example, for typical plots of 6 acres. You can take the diagram below as a basis. It shows a herringbone-shaped drainage route. The distance between the drains, as stated above, is selected based on the type of soil (see table).

An example of the location of the drainage system in a summer cottage

To carry out the work you will need a shovel and bayonet shovel, a tape measure, a bubble level, a hammer and a sharp construction knife. The materials you will need to prepare are gravel of fraction 20–40, geotextiles, edged bars or boards 2–3 m long.

To construct surface drainage on a summer cottage, you will need to do the following:

Sometimes, the base of the trench is concreted along the entire length of the drainage route. This allows you not to worry that over time the earthen walls will begin to crumble, water flow will deteriorate, etc. But this approach is more labor-intensive and requires the ability to work with concrete mixture.

Draining the area using deep drainage

Deep drainage is a standard solution for draining suburban and suburban areas. A deep drainage system can be installed even when there is a protective blind area, concrete or slab paths around the building. If necessary, they can be partially dismantled, but the overall structure will not be damaged.

An example of a drainage system project in a suburban area

Work on the construction of deep drainage includes the following:

1. According to the design plan of the site, it is necessary to draw up a diagram of the location of the drainage pipes and determine the water discharge point, that is, the place from where the collected water will be drained into the sewer pipes leading to the drainage well. The depth of the pipeline must be below the freezing level of the soil. For the North-Western region this value is about 60–80 cm.

   Preparation of trenches for the construction of deep drainage

2. Taking into account the plan, a trench is dug along the perimeter and area of ​​the site with a depth of up to 1 m. The width of the trench is at least 30 cm. All horizontal sections of the trenches are combined into unified system, which is supplied to the water discharge point. After this, trenches are dug maintaining a slope of 2–4 cm per 1 m of surface. To check the quality of the drainage, the trenches are spilled with a large volume of water. If necessary, the slope towards the drainage well increases.

   The pit for the drainage well must be dug at the lowest point on the site

3. At the lowest point of the site, a place is created for the installation of a water intake or filter drainage well. For large areas located on loamy and clayey soil types, it is better to install storage type wells with a volume of up to 1000 liters. For small areas, you can use both storage and filter wells. The type of tank is selected based on the type of soil.

   A wide sheet of geotextile is laid on top of the gravel layer.

4. Fine gravel is poured into the bottom of the trench. The thickness of the layer is 10 cm. A geofabric is laid on the gravel with an overlap on the walls of the trench. To fix the canvas to the walls, wooden or plastic pegs are used, which are driven into the ground. After this, a 10 cm layer of crushed stone with a fraction of 50–60 is poured onto the laid geotextile and carefully leveled in compliance with the slope. A drainage pipe from Ø 110 mm is laid on the crushed stone.
5. Modular inspection wells are installed at the drain turning points. The diameter and height of the well depend on the expected volume of wastewater. To connect the pipe to the mounting hole, a coupling is used, which is coated with a waterproof sealant before joining. Similar actions are carried out to connect the drainage pipe to the well pipe.

   An inspection drainage well is installed in places where the drainage pipe turns

6. Before backfilling, the drainage system is checked for functionality. To do this, a large volume of water is drained through drains. If the water quickly drains and enters the well, then everything is done correctly and you can move on to the final stage. In other cases, you need to find and fix the problem.
7. A 20–30 cm layer of gravel of fraction 20–40 is poured over the drainage pipes and carefully leveled. After this, the drains with laid crushed stone are covered with geotextiles. A 10–15 cm layer of quarry sand is poured on top of the geofabric and thoroughly compacted. The remaining space in the trench can be filled with fertile soil or regular soil from the site.

Methods for drying an area without drainage

Excessive moisture in the soil and stagnation of water on the site are not always associated with high level groundwater. Sometimes this occurs due to abnormally low temperatures and heavy precipitation. The combination of these factors leads to the fact that moisture does not have time to evaporate, and puddles and mold form on the soil surface.

Sanding clay soil is one of the ways to drain an area without drainage

If, due to some circumstances, it is impossible to install a drainage system, then there are several effective ways to drain the land:

Of the above methods of draining a site, the most effective are adding a sufficient amount of fertile soil and constructing trenches around the perimeter. On average, 1 m 3 of soil will cost 550–600 rubles. For a plot of 6 acres, 10–12 m3 of soil is sufficient.

The easiest way to drain the soil on a site

Construction of shallow trenches filled with crushed stone is the most in a simple way drainage of a summer cottage. Despite its overall simplicity, this method is very effective and can cope with large amounts of water formed during snow melting.

Work on arrangement of trenches around the perimeter and area of ​​the site includes the following:

If desired, the second layer of crushed stone can be reduced, and the remaining space can be covered with soil from the site. This will hide the drainage under a layer of turf. It is not recommended to plant flowers and greenery on top of the drainage trench. This is fraught with their death due to the high humidity in this place.

How to clear a clogged drain pipe

Failure to comply with the technology for laying drainage pipes is the main reason for stagnation and poor drainage of water from distribution wells. In addition, very often stagnation of water is not associated with a blockage at all. Insufficient slope does not ensure constant and uniform drainage of accumulated water towards the drainage pit.

To clear small blockages, use a steel cable or a hose with strong water pressure.

The easiest way to unclog drain pipes is to use a steel cable drain cleaner. At one end of the cable there is a spiral-shaped nozzle, at the other there is a handle with which you can rotate the cable, creating a mechanical load at the site of the blockage.

To clean pipes Ø110 mm or more, it is recommended to use a cable with a steel brush of the appropriate size. During the cleaning process, it is necessary to lower the cable into drainage pipe until its end reaches the clog. Next, by rotating the cable clockwise, you need to try to break through the blockage or move it towards draining the water. Usually, small accumulations of silt and leaves can be pushed through without much difficulty.

If it was not possible to remove the blockage, then you will need to call specialists who, using a pneumatic installation and other equipment, will not only clear the blockage, but also carry out preventive cleaning of the entire surface of the drainage pipes.

Video: do-it-yourself site drainage

Oversaturation of the soil with moisture and stagnation of water on the site are a big problem, which affects not only the growth of fruit-bearing crops, but also reduces the service life of a residential building. But it is worth remembering that excess water can be dealt with using a drainage system. It is much worse if there is enough fresh water and moisture, and the construction of a well is impossible due to certain circumstances.

It is believed that an artificial pond serves only as a decoration for the site and a place for children to swim, so that they do not get bored when leaving the city. However, a well-equipped pond also helps to humidify the air in the dacha, therefore, it is useful for both people (especially asthmatics) and garden plants.

If you think through and organize everything correctly, then the work, from start to finish, is done without the involvement of specialists, with your own hands. About the specifics of conducting the main technological operations and the proposed article will tell you, which can be considered as step-by-step instructions for building a pond in your country house. Naturally, making certain allowances for local nuances.

It depends little on the desired shape of the reservoir. By the way, there is no standard for it. If the main purpose of the pond is decorative, then it is enough to “turn on” your own imagination to understand how its bowl will fit into the overall landscape of a particular segment of the territory. But the more bizarre its configuration, the more complex the work will be, and the costs of time and money will be more impressive.

Therefore, when arranging a pond, you need to focus on fairly simple shapes - a circle, an oval, a square, giving them some asymmetry so that the pond looks natural.

What to consider when choosing a location for a pond:

• The location of fruit trees and shrubs with a strong root system (for example, barberry). If they are far away, then the choice of options for the design of the bowl is quite large, and the installation itself can be carried out according to a simplified scheme. If there is a risk of its being damaged by roots, you will have to buy either the appropriate plastic “ware” (ready-made container), or engage in concreting, laying out a pit under the pond with stone. And leaves falling into it from nearby plantings will have to be removed constantly.
• Possibility of supplying a water pipe. The shorter the route, the less load on the pump. In addition, the cost of laying the line will be reduced. ASG for the “cushion”, geotextiles, the same pipes and a number of other materials - all this will have to be purchased.
• Drain. The water will have to be renewed periodically. And the more illuminated the place, the more often. Otherwise, duckweed will appear, intensive proliferation of microorganisms and associated odors due to stagnant water. Consequently, you will have to install a drainage “thread”.
• Experts recommend focusing on its area that is acceptable for any dacha. The reservoir should not occupy more than 5% of its territory. Considering that a certain proportion of acres is already occupied by a house, garden buildings are quite rational advice.
• Illumination of this part dacha area. Optimally – no more than 6 hours a day. If there is too much light, the water will quickly turn green, as has already been said.

Selection of materials

Ready-made industrial container

All this leads to an increase in the cost of work and, in addition, such events are a separate and large topic that requires detailed investigation. Unfortunately, it is quite difficult to fulfill all the plans.

External design of the banks

Some options are shown in the photo. And which one to choose is up to you, dear reader.

On a note

Meet on the Internet step by step instructions, which quite colorfully describes how to decorate a pond in a country house with the help of ornamental vegetation and fish. But for some reason one point is being missed - what to do with all this when cold weather sets in? Before planning just such an “artistic” design of a reservoir at the dacha, it is worth thinking about this very difficult question.

When planning the size of the future pond, if the bowl is mounted from film, you should focus on the parameters of the canvas. Soldering them is not the best solution, since it is unlikely that it will be possible to fasten the strips together without the skills and appropriate equipment. And the risk of leaks is quite high.

The best option is to purchase a waterproofing membrane so that it completely covers the entire pit. Therefore, before planning a pond at your dacha, you need to find out what sizes of PVC products are available for sale in a given locality. This is a better solution than trying to glue (solder) the canvases.

If you are setting up a pond for the first time, a miniature pond is enough to start with. Then, with knowledge of the matter, having gained experience in hydraulic engineering work, you can arrange a larger reservoir at your dacha.

On our site there is a pit measuring 6 x 6 m and 1 m deep. Apparently, the previous owners wanted to build something on this site, but never got around to it. We are not planning construction, so we don’t need a foundation pit. Is it possible to put cut trees and shrubs in it and then simply fill it with soil? And what else can be done with this hole?

Natalya Egorova, Zelenograd

It’s rare that a summer resident gets an absolutely perfect land plot. For some it is too dry, for others it is too damp, for others it is too shady or windy. Well, the author of the letter was unlucky with a huge hole. But why no luck? If you approach the matter thoughtfully and creatively, such a disadvantage is not so difficult to turn into an advantage. Or even make it a highlight that all the neighbors and guests of your dacha will look at.

Unfortunately, no details about the exact location, relief, soil and water conditions, features of development and the style of decorative design of the site are presented in the letter. It is only known that it came from the city of Zelenograd, Moscow region. Therefore, I will try to suggest only the most general options for action. I hope that they will be of interest to other summer residents.

Initial data

Zelenograd is located on the territory of the Klinsko-Dmitrovskaya ridge. This area is gently rolling, and the soil consists of glacial deposits under a relatively thin layer of red-brown and brownish loams.

In the Zelenograd area, the most common are soddy-podzolic soils, on which mainly spruce and spruce-small-leaved forests grow. It is likely that the soil on the site does not allow water to pass through well, and it lingers in holes and ditches for a long time. But another option is also possible - sediments quickly sink to depth. Depending on the specific situation on the site, you need to make a decision on what to do with the pit.

Harvest beds

The pit can be turned into a wonderful gardening area. All experts agree that replacing nutritionally poor soil with more fertile soil is the ideal solution for obtaining high yields. And if there are not enough materials for this right away, this can be done in stages!

How to do it?

Coarse plant debris: branches, twigs, foliage are placed at the bottom of the pit. On top they are partially covered with ordinary soil from your site. Then lay out a layer of nutritious organic matter - manure (can be unrotted) or manure mixed with peat. After this, the surface is covered with a 20-30‑centimeter layer of ready-made compost or good garden soil. Thus, the pit will turn into a large “warm bed”, using which you can grow a wide variety of vegetable or berry crops.

Place to rest

If the site, on the contrary, is dry, well-drained and water never stagnates in the pit, you can arrange an excellent recreation area there with a place for a fire or barbecue. It may look like a separate garden, shallowly “recessed” compared to the level of the main plot.

Rest zone. Photo: Andrey Lysikov

How to do it?

To prevent the earth from crumbling, retaining walls made of brick or natural stone are built along the sides of the pit. For ease of access, stairs are built on one or both sides. The bottom of the pit is leveled, covered with a thick layer of crushed stone and sand, and then lined with flagstone or clinker (specially baked brick suitable for paving the street). Both in the pit itself and around it, in accordance with the planned plan, holes are dug, filled with nutritious substrate and ornamental trees and shrubs, as well as perennial and annual flowers, are planted. Garden furniture is placed on the paved surface, and a fire pit is organized there or a barbecue is installed. This cozy corner is sure to become your favorite relaxation spot!

Mysterious Pond

If the area is damp, with high groundwater levels, it is better not to fill the pit at all. On the contrary, in this case it is extremely valuable, since it can perform a drainage function, collecting excess water and reducing the level of “primer”. This leads to another option for using a pit - turning it into a garden pond.

How to do it?

To ensure that the reservoir not only collects water, but also truly decorates your site, the pit is given a beautiful shape, changing the contour of the coastline and depth. A gravel cushion is poured onto the bottom, and large decorative stones are placed if desired. The banks of the resulting pond are planted with spectacular semi-aquatic vegetation (iris calamus, marsh butterfly, loosestrife, moisture-loving grasses, etc.) or decorated with a mesh of coconut fiber. Large containers with aquatic plants, for example, nymphs (water lilies), are placed at the bottom. For their successful wintering, a depth of 70-80 cm will be sufficient.

Lawn. Photo: Andrey Lysikov

Green lawn

And one last thing. An unnecessary pit can simply be filled with imported soil and a lawn or playground can be built in this place. But for this it is advisable to use only mineral substrates (sand, loam), and not plant residues. Organic materials (for example, tree trunks, branches and stumps) poured into the pit will gradually decompose and the surface of the soil in this area of ​​the site will begin to sag, which will entail a lot of work for its subsequent leveling.